Asuga Some questions from a newbie + first issue

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XashBE

XashBE

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Location
Aarsele, Belgium
Corally RC's
  1. Asuga
Many people tell to put the servo on 7.4 volt right away on the Asuga to make the servo less lame.

So should i do it? And what exactly does this do? Any risk of anything breaking or going up in flames due to that?

Another thing i notices right out the box is my front left wheel wobbles. I could just test it in the living room but it was fairly noticeable, seemed not right. Any idea what this could be and how to fix it? Known issue? Or do you need a video to pinpoint it better?

Thanks.
 
XashBE said:
Many people tell to put the servo on 7.4 volt right away on the Asuga to make the servo less lame.

So should i do it? And what exactly does this do? Any risk of anything breaking or going up in flames due to that?

Another thing i notices right out the box is my front left wheel wobbles. I could just test it in the living room but it was fairly noticeable, seemed not right. Any idea what this could be and how to fix it? Known issue? Or do you need a video to pinpoint it better?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
I would recommend trying things out as they are before you start switching things up. You may find that the stock set up works just great for your needs. If you run into questions as you go someone will definitely have some advice.

I also would highly recommended going through EVERYTHING before you take it out and run it hard. Yes, there should be nothing “off” right out of the box but it definitely happens. I’ve seen numerous videos of wheels shooting off during first runs only to lead to instant disaster. (Always happens at full speed or while launching it in order to do maximum damage). Wheel nuts loosen, it happens. I’m not sure if that is what your “wobble” was but the front end is not that complicated so I would check everything you can.
 
I agree with CCB. Try it in stock configuration before making any changes. As for your servo, it should be fine as long as you don't set your BEC to a higher voltage than the servo is rated. Also, all servos are not created equal. I've had some friends burn out their servos early by setting the voltage high. For bashing purposes, I doubt you'll need the difference in transit speed. For your wheel, it could be a number of things; try moving it to a different corner and see if it still wobbles. Also pay attention to the wheel you replaced it with; if that wobbles as well you mighty have a hardware issue.
 
VaporTrail said:
I agree with CCB. Try it in stock configuration before making any changes. As for your servo, it should be fine as long as you don't set your BEC to a higher voltage than the servo is rated. Also, all servos are not created equal. I've had some friends burn out their servos early by setting the voltage high. For bashing purposes, I doubt you'll need the difference in transit speed. For your wheel, it could be a number of things; try moving it to a different corner and see if it still wobbles. Also pay attention to the wheel you replaced it with; if that wobbles as well you mighty have a hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Good idea, change the wheels. If it wobble there now, it's the wheel. Maybe it's also just not tightened, will give feedback later
 
Update when something breaks. Tighten the wheel nuts before you run. Run stock first and then adapt stuff 2 your likings.
 
Here the video to the wobble issue.
Minimal back left as well, actually.


Changed it to front right and now it's there, so the issue is the wheel.


Still drive it? Either way, will contact support for it.
 
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XashBE said:
Here the video to the wobble issue.
Minimal back left as well, actually.


Changed it to front right and now it's there, so the issue is the wheel.


Still drive it? Either way, will contact support for it.
Click to expand...
That wobble looks like a badly moulded wheel, rather than just a poorly mounted tyre. Often 'wheel wobble' arises from poorly balanced wheels, but in your video you can see the actual wheel is on the wonk. Possibly the wheel hex is not moulded right? 🤔

Personally, I wouldn't run it like that, because that's going to cause severe vibration to the rest of your rig - bearings, suspension arms, pivots - not to mention giving all your electronics getting a really rough time too.

I'm pretty sure Corally will honour that and likely just supply you with a new set of wheels/tyres. 👍

As for voltages - run with whatever your gear is rated for. Obviously 6v is standard norm for most stuff, so check your receiver spec and servo ratings. The Corally 7225 servo should manage 7.2 volts. Running at the higher voltage will give you faster steering and more holding torque.

Unfortunately, it will also make it more prone to burn out if you have a tumble wumble, so you need to choose according to your needs. 👍
 
I just ran it calmly on the parking (couldn't resist) and i'm pretty okay with the steering, so i'll just leave it at 6v for now.
Car drives pretty much like what i want, right away.
Could glue a bit more to the street for my taste. Will see about that.

TC support already has the 2 videos, will see how they react and keep this updated.
 
XashBE said:
Here the video to the wobble issue.
Minimal back left as well, actually.


Changed it to front right and now it's there, so the issue is the wheel.


Still drive it? Either way, will contact support for it.
Click to expand...

Yep...I'd agree with Horatio. Seems like it's just the tire or the wheel, thank goodness. Glad it was an easy rundown. That's a pretty decent wobble, so I'd replace it before doing any serious runs.

Horatio also brought up a good point about your receiver; make sure they can handle the higher voltages. Most of the current receivers on the market today can handle up to 9 or 10 volts, but it's always good to double check.
 
XashBE said:
Here the video to the wobble issue.
Minimal back left as well, actually.


Changed it to front right and now it's there, so the issue is the wheel.


Still drive it? Either way, will contact support for it.
Click to expand...
Just curious 🤔, what did you hear back from support on you messed up wheel?
 
XashBE said:
Many people tell to put the servo on 7.4 volt right away on the Asuga to make the servo less lame.

So should i do it? And what exactly does this do? Any risk of anything breaking or going up in flames due to that?

Another thing i notices right out the box is my front left wheel wobbles. I could just test it in the living room but it was fairly noticeable, seemed not right. Any idea what this could be and how to fix it? Known issue? Or do you need a video to pinpoint it better?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Hi.
The servo has a rating which is it’s maximum power at its maximum voltage. For instance 25Kg @ 7.4v. The serv will have a max/min operating voltage.
As for the front wheel wobble. Check that the wheel nut is tight first. You would be surprised how many wheel nuts come off for not being proper tight. From looking inside the wheel at the wheel hub and suspension arms to see where the movement is.
I guess this is brand new, so I personally would not change anything until I had spoken with the supplier. Team Corally have one of the best after-sales customer services. I bought a new Python rtr, after 3 months 2 components failed. Corally replaced these without any problems.
 
chipster said:
Hi.
The servo has a rating which is it’s maximum power at its maximum voltage. For instance 25Kg @ 7.4v. The serv will have a max/min operating voltage.
As for the front wheel wobble. Check that the wheel nut is tight first. You would be surprised how many wheel nuts come off for not being proper tight. From looking inside the wheel at the wheel hub and suspension arms to see where the movement is.
I guess this is brand new, so I personally would not change anything until I had spoken with the supplier. Team Corally have one of the best after-sales customer services. I bought a new Python rtr, after 3 months 2 components failed. Corally replaced these without any problems.
Click to expand...
The wheel/tyre isn't round, so it's not movement as such. No amount of tightness will fix that unfortunately.

Presumably as the OP has taken it out for a run and all 4 wheels stayed on, it's not a wheel nut issue. 👍
 
chipster said:
Hi.
The servo has a rating which is it’s maximum power at its maximum voltage. For instance 25Kg @ 7.4v. The serv will have a max/min operating voltage.
As for the front wheel wobble. Check that the wheel nut is tight first. You would be surprised how many wheel nuts come off for not being proper tight. From looking inside the wheel at the wheel hub and suspension arms to see where the movement is.
I guess this is brand new, so I personally would not change anything until I had spoken with the supplier. Team Corally have one of the best after-sales customer services. I bought a new Python rtr, after 3 months 2 components failed. Corally replaced these without any problems.
Click to expand...

You'd also be surprised at how many times a wheel nut will come loose even when tightened. :oops: It's happened about three times with my Muraco, once with my Shogun and twice with my Python.

Nothing like being in the heat of battle and then you see your wheel bounce away coming down from a jump or when you're pushing hard in a corner. Makes me laugh though, because when that happens my other two good friends who I'm battling with usually end up going off the track. We race, but we're always keeping an eye on eachother, so when something out of the ordinary happens to one of us we usually end up crashing or blowing through an apex. :ROFLMAO:
 
I always take along a nut to check after each pack from now on.
Well, after i fix my complete front left that is ^^
 
Wheel nuts that are serrated are generally much better at staying tight. Always a good idea to keep a 17mm wheel wrench handy.

With our wheels being plastic, there's a limit to how tight you can go before it ceases to be useful. It's counter productive causing deformation to the hex, or worse still, cracking it completely.

I've found that it's when our rigs are braking that the wheel nuts are most likely to back off.
 
Aren't there tuning wheels with metal centers? Would help a lot and just add minimal amount of weight for a big amount of safety.

@CCB-MN
I will drive to them tomorrow, since this happened , i explained that i had no idea why i suddenly went straight on a place i did 20 times before with no issues.
They said just come over here, we will check.
On the one hand i am hoping it was an error from their part, then again, if it really was, it could be happening again.

Yeah well, will see what they say tomorrow.

Will keep you posted.

Edit: He just replied to the support ticket as well, saying sorry for the late response because he was sick.
 
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