Sketer Bouncing after Jumps

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ridgehead44

ridgehead44

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Hello,

I took my Sketer out for its first ramp bash yesterday. I jumped it off this ramp below:

IMG_20230514_185026254.jpg


I wasn't exactly sending it but trying to get some modest jumps to learn control. I still managed to knock out a hinge pin and dogbone, but I fixed those this morning. I'm definitely not the best driver, but I did notice the car tended to bounce on landing, even after those modest jumps of 6 feet or so. (2 meters)

To my understanding, the main culprit for a bouncy rig is the thickness of the shock oil. I believe the Sketer's stock setup uses 600cps oil which converts to 47.5 wt.

I was thinking of going up to 55wt/700cps to get it planted on landing. Does this sound like a good starting point? Any advice is much appreciated. Thank you!
 
ridgehead44 said:
Hello,

I took my Sketer out for its first ramp bash yesterday. I jumped it off this ramp below:

View attachment 4848

I wasn't exactly sending it but trying to get some modest jumps to learn control. I still managed to knock out a hinge pin and dogbone, but I fixed those this morning. I'm definitely not the best driver, but I did notice the car tended to bounce on landing, even after those modest jumps of 6 feet or so. (2 meters)

To my understanding, the main culprit for a bouncy rig is the thickness of the shock oil. I believe the Sketer's stock setup uses 600cps oil which converts to 47.5 wt.

I was thinking of going up to 55wt/700cps to get it planted on landing. Does this sound like a good starting point? Any advice is much appreciated. Thank you!
Click to expand...
Bouncy handling during running on a bumpy surface normally suggests the shocks are under-damped (oil too thin).

However, bouncing after landing from a jump could indicate some other things. Sometimes the bounce occurs due to the car slapping the ground. This usually occurs if your car's droop, ride height or spring rate are insufficient for the jumps you're attempting.

If you're jumping, the droop should be set so full droop is limited to a point just before the shocks reach full extension ie - when your truck is off the ground, your a arm's down travel is limited by the droop screw, not your shock's piston inside the shock body. This will help save breaking shock ends/shafts and give you a safe maximum droop, allowing for maximum shock travel.

Ride height (adjusted by using the pre-load shock collars) should be high enough to give some needed shock travel to absorb the landing. This higher this is set, the more it compromises cornering handling.

Spring rate (replacing springs with firmer springs, or better still - progressive springs). The firmer the spring rate, the thicker the oil you need to dampen the 'spring oscillations'.

Note: Going up too thick with the shock oil for a given spring rate will result in over-damping, where the shock is too slow or doesn't even return at all to it's normal position after being compressed. This definitely won't help on your next jump!

Good luck and enjoy your suspension tuning. 💪👍
 
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