Shogun Shogun shenanigans

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VaporTrail

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Tip of the Spear
Corally RC's
  1. Kronos
  2. Muraco
  3. Python
  4. Shogun
So initially my Shogun was running 50K center, 20K front and 10K rear. Then I dropped it to 30K center, 20K front and 10K rear. It really woke her up around the track, aside from some push in the corners. She's been a beast on 4S, especially with the TP Power motor, which is 1570KV. She can drive respectably around the track, but definitely needs precise throttle control. Her weight can also cause issues, as she carries more momentum into the turns. Last I checked she was around 9-10lbs without a battery. Chonky girl. :oops:

Just this past weekend I was able to run my ET48.3. That's also on 4S, but with a HW G2 2200KV motor. She's slower in terms of pure speed compared to the Shogun, but she's a scalpel in the turns and floats like a butterfly in the jumps. She jumps like she was born for it and her trajectory is always stable, unless the driver goofs it up.

Upon further introspection, I deduced that the snappiness of the Shogun is largely due to it's massive spur gear. I put a 15T pinion on the TP motor to calm it down a little, but that really didn't help much. She still had a ton of torque. In a further attempt to ease up the power delivery, I pulled the center diff from my Python which has a 46T spur. I also changed the center diff fluid to 20K. I have a Castle 1515 motor that I may try putting in it as well; I think that would have more rollout than the TP motor that's currently in there. That should help a little in the turns.

Its an interesting comparison when you run the two back to back. The Shogun is a veritable tank; she's a brute with the power and will also fly down the straight like an arrow with it's butt on fire. Tends to push in the turns, but also flies surprisingly well. She's planted and won't over-rotate in the turns unless you're heavy on the happy trigger. Saddled with a lighter pack she can be surprisingly nimble, but she doesn't react as fast as the 48.3. Overall easier to drive, but requires concentration to turn out good lines.

The 48.3 is slower in terms of speed, but she's a good couple of levels above the Shogun in terms of dicing it up on the inside. She floats around the track and will roll through a turn to give you some pretty wicked lines coming out of the apex. Lumbers a bit with a 6500mAh 4S, but saddle her with the 5200? She jumps like she's floating and is ready to fly right when she lands. She'll squat and then take off before the dirt from her jump hits the floor. Twitchy compared to the Shogun; you need to concentrate on your steering because once you point her, she's off to the races. Requires more concentration to drive, but that's due to her reacting pretty well to steering inputs. It's easy to overshoot your apex and screw up your exit line.

That all being said, I have now switched out the center diff of the Shogun for the Python's center diff. 46T spur should be comparable to the 48.3's 44T spur. They're both running 20 20 10 for diff fluid and both are running 50/40 shock oil. I'm hoping the switch to a 46T and 20K fluid will bring the Shogun closer to the 48.3 in terms of handling. I know there's a weight difference, but I haven't weighed the 48.3 yet to know exactly what it is.

If all goes well, I should be able to run this weekend. I'll be sure to report back on the results. (y)
 
Sounds like a seriously good time!!
I find the Kronos XTR with track tires handles quite well for what it is too.
It has a slightly better turn in than my MT turned ET Tekno. Much more confident down the straights too for me. Just doesn't float like a butterfly, which the Tekno definitely does.
I also have a Mojave armed Kraton that really handles well. Has Mojave tires on it, it's a blast on the track this time of year when the ground is still soft. Beautiful day here in upstate NY. 60 and sunny, I couldn't see myself going to work.. so I played it safe and stayed home.😎👌🤗🍻
 
Interesting summary of running with Kronos/Shogun Vs Racing more race orientated rigs.

If I'm honest, I wasn't expecting the most satisfying drive with the XTR, but it really surprised me. It's obviously heavier than a full on race rig, but 6S power makes up for that in a straight line.

On dirt/grass - the XTR in my opinion handles nicely. Even on 20k, 100k, 10k, it definitely it goes where you point it. At higher speeds on hard surfaces with stock tyres - it's hysterical. Ballooning and wheelying all over the place. The Kuron 825 on 13t is brutally quick.

My Truggy experience is limited to Mugen, Jammin, Hobao, Xray and recently Sworkz. These are all comparatively lighter rigs with plush suspension/shock packages. The Xray XT8 in particular is a scalpel compared to the XTR. The XTR being a chainsaw!

The Sworkz is so light and powered with a 1515 (which only just fits) - on 6S it's obviously extremely rapid, hitting maximum speed in under 3 seconds. 1.03g!!! What also stands out are extremely smooth and consistent shocks. Setup with bladders, I can't imagine a better shock package.

On a track using 4S, the Sworkz would still have more performance than needed running a 15t pinion. This would be exactly the same for any of the super-light, precise and durable racing Truggy platforms currently on the market.

The gearing on our Corally rigs is oriented for much larger outdoor, free-range running - even when running a 52t spur. A 46t spur would be useful for speed runs. Less useful for off-road use IMO. But I'm going to try the smaller spur on the 500m strip. 👍
 
I suppose some bracing could be removed to lower weight with a TC or Arrma to get a better ratio, but I just like informal track running. Which given the prices of the rtr "bashers", they fill the bill just fine for me. I suppose my Tekno "mutt" is about as close as I'm ever going to get to a racer, I'm good with that. I do also have the old XRay XB8 too. It's a pedigree machine from yesteryear, converted from nitro to electric. As such the suspension is a tad soft as is, but I accept the fact that it's capabilities are greater than my own, LOL.

Interesting summary of running with Kronos/Shogun Vs Racing more race orientated rigs.

If I'm honest, I wasn't expecting the most satisfying drive with the XTR, but it really surprised me. It's obviously heavier than a full on race rig, but 6S power makes up for that in a straight line.

On dirt/grass - the XTR in my opinion handles nicely. Even on 20k, 100k, 10k, it definitely it goes where you point it. At higher speeds on hard surfaces with stock tyres - it's hysterical. Ballooning and wheelying all over the place. The Kuron 825 on 13t is brutally quick.

My Truggy experience is limited to Mugen, Jammin, Hobao, Xray and recently Sworkz. These are all comparatively lighter rigs with plush suspension/shock packages. The Xray XT8 in particular is a scalpel compared to the XTR. The XTR being a chainsaw!

The Sworkz is so light and powered with a 1515 (which only just fits) - on 6S it's obviously extremely rapid, hitting maximum speed in under 3 seconds. 1.03g!!! What also stands out are extremely smooth and consistent shocks. Setup with bladders, I can't imagine a better shock package.

On a track using 4S, the Sworkz would still have more performance than needed running a 15t pinion. This would be exactly the same for any of the super-light, precise and durable racing Truggy platforms currently on the market.

The gearing on our Corally rigs is oriented for much larger outdoor, free-range running - even when running a 52t spur. A 46t spur would be useful for speed runs. Less useful for off-road use IMO. But I'm going to try the smaller spur on the 500m strip. 👍
I know my Kronos has 100k in center, that's about all I know, LOL. Actually I did put some in the front and rear when I upgraded the output cups to spring steel. 7,10,100k is really all I own so, something in the range of..🤷‍♂️🤪😂
Close counts at KnowAir raceway!!😉😎🍻
 
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Sounds like a seriously good time!!
I find the Kronos XTR with track tires handles quite well for what it is too.
It has a slightly better turn in than my MT turned ET Tekno. Much more confident down the straights too for me. Just doesn't float like a butterfly, which the Tekno definitely does.
I also have a Mojave armed Kraton that really handles well. Has Mojave tires on it, it's a blast on the track this time of year when the ground is still soft. Beautiful day here in upstate NY. 60 and sunny, I couldn't see myself going to work.. so I played it safe and stayed home.😎👌🤗🍻

Yeah it wasn't too bad. Unfortunately my friend that was running with me broke early, so we had to end the day after an hour. The Shogun handles respectfully with a good set of rubber on it; alot of it is going to depend more on the driver. One of the newer guys here has a Kraton; we've been trying to help him out, but he doesn't come around too often. I suppose if he's not going to race then it's fine, but if he plans on being competitive then I hope he comes out to practice more.

I'd love to stay home a couple of days and just kinda relax. 😁

Interesting summary of running with Kronos/Shogun Vs Racing more race orientated rigs.

If I'm honest, I wasn't expecting the most satisfying drive with the XTR, but it really surprised me. It's obviously heavier than a full on race rig, but 6S power makes up for that in a straight line.

On dirt/grass - the XTR in my opinion handles nicely. Even on 20k, 100k, 10k, it definitely it goes where you point it. At higher speeds on hard surfaces with stock tyres - it's hysterical. Ballooning and wheelying all over the place. The Kuron 825 on 13t is brutally quick.

My Truggy experience is limited to Mugen, Jammin, Hobao, Xray and recently Sworkz. These are all comparatively lighter rigs with plush suspension/shock packages. The Xray XT8 in particular is a scalpel compared to the XTR. The XTR being a chainsaw!

The Sworkz is so light and powered with a 1515 (which only just fits) - on 6S it's obviously extremely rapid, hitting maximum speed in under 3 seconds. 1.03g!!! What also stands out are extremely smooth and consistent shocks. Setup with bladders, I can't imagine a better shock package.

On a track using 4S, the Sworkz would still have more performance than needed running a 15t pinion. This would be exactly the same for any of the super-light, precise and durable racing Truggy platforms currently on the market.

The gearing on our Corally rigs is oriented for much larger outdoor, free-range running - even when running a 52t spur. A 46t spur would be useful for speed runs. Less useful for off-road use IMO. But I'm going to try the smaller spur on the 500m strip. 👍

Aye. There was a huge difference in power delivery and it was even more apparent when you ran the two rigs back to back. The lighter weight of the 48.3 helps with it's handling, as does the overall geometry I would think. The Shogun performed quite a bit better this weekend; I'll attribute that to some adjustments I made with the center diff and spur.

I think the 46T spur will definitely help with the overall speed when you raise hell on that 500m strip. 😁(y)
 
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This weekend was a good run. I got a lot more familiar with the 48.3's driving characteristics and I also seemed to pick the Shogun up a level or two as well.

The Shogun is now running a 20K Python center diff with the 46T spur. Same esc, same motor. Rotation is much better through the turns, but the rollout is still not on par with the 48.3. I'll attribute this to TPPower motor; the rotor's magnet is pretty burly, so I'm sure that adds the to drag effect.

With the Python center diff, power delivery can still be brutish, but it's not as snappy as it was with the 52T spur. I think if I change out the motor to a 4274 can it'll calm it down even more. The 4080 can definitely has the grunt, that's for sure. It's still faster than the 48.3 in terms of pure speed, but the 48.3 will pull away from it in the infield. I think if I put the Shogun on a diet, she'll get even closer to the performance levels of the 48.3.

Power delivery is smoother and not as abrupt. Putting 20K fluid in the center diff also really helped with the rotation mid turn, so now I have to relearn my steering. It's alot easier for the Shogun to whip her tail out now. Pinion stayed the same at 15T. Some temps after a 8min moderate run:

Motor: 129
Esc: 125
Batt: 107

This leads me to believe that I was undergeared before. I'm glad with the temps.

I also ran the course at a race pace. Definitely higher temps, but after 8 minutes not as bad as I was expecting:

Motor: 140
Esc: 130
Batt: 120

I also wanted to mention that the 48.3 was running a 5200mAh 4S pack. Using that pack, she really glides through the jumps and is an absolute laser beam through the turns. I was running a pretty good pace around the track and led the 48 2.0 and the Losi 3.0 by a good margin. As a test, I put myself about a 3/4 lap behind them and came within 1 turn of their lead before they dumped.

The Shogun was running a 6500mAh 4S, and she wasn't a slouch either. Still fast, so I need to adjust my speed going into the turn so that I don't blow through as many apexes. I'll bet with the 5200 pack she's gonna be alot more nimble. Next time we run I'll be using the Shogun to battle it out with the 2.0 and the Losi. I have a feeling she's gonna be giving them a bunch more trouble than she used to.

And just in case anyone was looking for a setup, I can offer what I'm running on my Shogun:

Diffs:
F - 20K
C - 20K
R - 10

Shocks (Kraton V5)
Outermost hole on both shock towers
F - Losi 50wt
R - Losi 40wt

Just as an aside on the shock oil: Hotter temps you can use thicker oils, as the heat will thin it out a bit. Colder temps you can use thinner oil, as it will retain it's viscosity. I run thinner oil and when the day heats up, you can definitely hear the chassis slap. I live with the consequences, as the track is rutted out and has plenty dips and bumps. The thinner oil helps to keep the Shogun floating over all but the most obscene imperfections on the track. Once we get the new dirt put in place and the track is completely smooth, I'll be moving to a heavier oil to give me more traction.

Camber:
4 degrees all around

Front toe out:
3 degrees

Gearing
Spur: 46
Pinion: 15

Esc: MMX 6S
motor: TPPower 4050 Series, 1570KV

I think the next time we run I'm gonna put my transponder in. I'll ask my other two buddies to put a transponder on as well. Heck, maybe even make it a mini race.

I'd definitely like to see what kind of times our rigs are turning out. Unofficial (read as: cell phone timer) laps on the track have been around the 26 second mark. That was the previous layout. Not much has changed aside from adding a double on the back straight right after the triple.

If I can see what times we're all running I can establish a better baseline for what I need to work on.
 
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This weekend was a good run. I got a lot more familiar with the 48.3's driving characteristics and I also seemed to pick the Shogun up a level or two as well.

The Shogun is now running a 20K Python center diff with the 46T spur. Same esc, same motor. Rotation is much better through the turns, but the rollout is still not on par with the 48.3. I'll attribute this to TPPower motor; the rotor's magnet is pretty burly, so I'm sure that adds the to drag effect.

With the Python center diff, power delivery can still be brutish, but it's not as snappy as it was with the 52T spur. I think if I change out the motor to a 4274 can it'll calm it down even more. The 4080 can definitely has the grunt, that's for sure. It's still faster than the 48.3 in terms of pure speed, but the 48.3 will pull away from it in the infield. I think if I put the Shogun on a diet, she'll get even closer to the performance levels of the 48.3.

Power delivery is smoother and not as abrupt. Putting 20K fluid in the center diff also really helped with the rotation mid turn, so now I have to relearn my steering. It's alot easier for the Shogun to whip her tail out now. Pinion stayed the same at 15T. Some temps after a 8min moderate run:

Motor: 129
Esc: 125
Batt: 107

This leads me to believe that I was undergeared before. I'm glad with the temps.

I also ran the course at a race pace. Definitely higher temps, but after 8 minutes not as bad as I was expecting:

Motor: 140
Esc: 130
Batt: 120

I also wanted to mention that the 48.3 was running a 5200mAh 4S pack. Using that pack, she really glides through the jumps and is an absolute laser beam through the turns. I was running a pretty good pace around the track and led the 48 2.0 and the Losi 3.0 by a good margin. As a test, I put myself about a 3/4 lap behind them and came within 1 turn of their lead before they dumped.

The Shogun was running a 6500mAh 4S, and she wasn't a slouch either. Still fast, so I need to adjust my speed going into the turn so that I don't blow through as many apexes. I'll bet with the 5200 pack she's gonna be alot more nimble. Next time we run I'll be using the Shogun to battle it out with the 2.0 and the Losi. I have a feeling she's gonna be giving them a bunch more trouble than she used to.

And just in case anyone was looking for a setup, I can offer what I'm running on my Shogun:

Diffs:
F - 20K
C - 20K
R - 10

Shocks (Kraton V5)
Outermost hole on both shock towers
F - Losi 50wt
R - Losi 40wt

Just as an aside on the shock oil: Hotter temps you can use thicker oils, as the heat will thin it out a bit. Colder temps you can use thinner oil, as it will retain it's viscosity. I run thinner oil and when the day heats up, you can definitely hear the chassis slap. I live with the consequences, as the track is rutted out and has plenty dips and bumps. The thinner oil helps to keep the Shogun floating over all but the most obscene imperfections on the track. Once we get the new dirt put in place and the track is completely smooth, I'll be moving to a heavier oil to give me more traction.

Camber:
4 degrees all around

Front toe out:
3 degrees

Gearing
Spur: 46
Pinion: 15

Esc: MMX 6S
motor: TPPower 4050 Series, 1570KV

I think the next time we run I'm gonna put my transponder in. I'll ask my other two buddies to put a transponder on as well. Heck, maybe even make it a mini race.

I'd definitely like to see what kind of times our rigs are turning out. Unofficial (read as: cell phone timer) laps on the track have been around the 26 second mark. That was the previous layout. Not much has changed aside from adding a double on the back straight right after the triple.

If I can see what times we're all running I can establish a better baseline for what I need to work on.
Good stuff! I'm sure the Shogun would do better with a lighter load, both battery and motor.
I spent the weekend running a few rigs around my track solo. Gets old quickly though, LOL.
I ran a few rigs, Xmaxx with XRT Gravix tires/wheels, they handle really well considering what the Xmaxx is. Ran my SCT410.3 which I've converted to MT410, has Duratrax Six-Packs 2.8 MT on it, 4s is really impressive in it. Ran the Rustler VXL 2WD, I call it cheap fun..Losi Lasernut on 4s with TRX Hoss Sledgehammer tires/wheels, also a blast. Thunder Tiger ST4 on 4s, a fun historical rig..it's got the narrow stance, so it handles well, but requires alot of driver input to prevent rollovers.

I'm looking for some mini pin type tires in 2.8 size with 12mm hex for the converted SCT410.3. The six-packs are "okay" right now, but once the clay dries, I'll need mini pins for grip, 2.8 just clears the rear hubs, and .5 offset is needed for width.. the six-packs are about 5" tall, which works well on the rough surface of my track..
Anyone got any info on some tires/wheels?
 
Thanks! I forgot to mention that I tried the 5200mAh pack in the Shogun last year, and there was definitely a difference in how she handled. I'll have to work a little more with that particular pack to get more accurate runtime measurements. IIRC, the 5200 packs will almost make it 10 minutes if I control the pace. Maybe 8 mins if I go hog wild. I think I need to run that pack again and get some accurate runtimes.

Not too sure on the Mini Pins for a MT. Maybe a truggy tire? Then again, I don't really recall seeing any pin tires for a truggy. :unsure:
 
Thanks! I forgot to mention that I tried the 5200mAh pack in the Shogun last year, and there was definitely a difference in how she handled. I'll have to work a little more with that particular pack to get more accurate runtime measurements. IIRC, the 5200 packs will almost make it 10 minutes if I control the pace. Maybe 8 mins if I go hog wild. I think I need to run that pack again and get some accurate runtimes.

Not too sure on the Mini Pins for a MT. Maybe a truggy tire? Then again, I don't really recall seeing any pin tires for a truggy. :unsure:
Maybe mini pin isn't the correct term, I'm mean a tread such as Proline Gladiator, Bowtie, Crime fighters or AKA City Blocks.. definitely not a common demand in 1/10 MT size. 1/10 ST is too small I feel, SCT too narrow. Is 2.2 still the common size for 1/10 ST? Seems to be, 2.2 won't clear the rear hubs of the sct410.3 unfortunately. 1/8 truggy is definitely too tall and wide..
On a whim, I ordered a set of TRX Gravix 2.8 tires/wheels for the Rustler 4x4 Ultimate. They're supposed to be 5" diameter, but I'm not 100% on that, we'll see. I have the XRT Gravix tires on my Xmaxx, thus far they hook up really nice on my track.

IMG_3571_grande.jpg
 
Aaah...I see! (said the blind man)

If that's the case, then I'd go with something along the stock tire size of the Rustler. You are correct, they are usually a 2.8 tire; taller and wider than a standard ST tire, which usually is in the 2.2 flavor. You can probably even look for something along the stock tire size for the Maxx, which should be close to that size if not possibly a hair bigger.

Maxx Choppers.jpg


I'm not too sure how this would grip on clay.

Good gravy that pic is huge. :oops: At least we won't need our glasses to see the tread.
 
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After some reflection (and a talk with one of my racing buddies), I'm going to swap out the TPPower motor in the Shogun. The 15T pinion and 46T spur calmed the power delivery down, but that motor is still putting out some wicked torque. Guess I shouldn't be surprised as the can is 80mm in length, but I figured at 1570KV it wouldn't be too bad. It's still faster in terms of top speed compared to the 48.3's 4274 2250KV motor, and that does make it a handful to pilot around the track.

So now I'm going to replace the TPPower with a Hobbystar 4274 1850KV. The HS motor is rated at a 92A draw, so I'm sure that will be easy for the MMX and the batteries to provide the juice. Also, the smaller can should calm down the snappy power delivery and should increase my rollout, which will help in really carving up the infield. Additionally, with the lower KV I can gear up a little, which should make throttle delivery smoother, and it should slow down the Shogun enough to actually have a more consistent driving experience. Since she's heavy and carries a bunch of speed, it's very easy to blow an apex and then struggle with the exit line.

Next up is to get the suspension arm mounts/hinge pin mounts that have tuning options for the pill inserts. That should help a bit with the tuning options.
 
After some reflection (and a talk with one of my racing buddies), I'm going to swap out the TPPower motor in the Shogun. The 15T pinion and 46T spur calmed the power delivery down, but that motor is still putting out some wicked torque. Guess I shouldn't be surprised as the can is 80mm in length, but I figured at 1570KV it wouldn't be too bad. It's still faster in terms of top speed compared to the 48.3's 4274 2250KV motor, and that does make it a handful to pilot around the track.

So now I'm going to replace the TPPower with a Hobbystar 4274 1850KV. The HS motor is rated at a 92A draw, so I'm sure that will be easy for the MMX and the batteries to provide the juice. Also, the smaller can should calm down the snappy power delivery and should increase my rollout, which will help in really carving up the infield. Additionally, with the lower KV I can gear up a little, which should make throttle delivery smoother, and it should slow down the Shogun enough to actually have a more consistent driving experience. Since she's heavy and carries a bunch of speed, it's very easy to blow an apex and then struggle with the exit line.

Next up is to get the suspension arm mounts/hinge pin mounts that have tuning options for the pill inserts. That should help a bit with the tuning options.
Sounds like you are getting that set up nicely!

I’m guessing that you will like the pill inserts. I have only played with them a little bit so far on the 48.2, but for me, it was pretty noticeable when I started changing them up. After some brief shenanigans, I decided to set them back to stock. I want to make sure I’m happy with the diff set up and try dial that in first before I mess up what seems to be a good place. I’ve noticed that even on the stock set up, it really dives into the corners well and doesn’t roll hardly at all so I’m inclined to leave well enough alone at the moment.

……but that little devil on my shoulder is whispering in my ear. 😈
 
Sounds like you are getting that set up nicely!

I’m guessing that you will like the pill inserts. I have only played with them a little bit so far on the 48.2, but for me, it was pretty noticeable when I started changing them up. After some brief shenanigans, I decided to set them back to stock. I want to make sure I’m happy with the diff set up and try dial that in first before I mess up what seems to be a good place. I’ve noticed that even on the stock set up, it really dives into the corners well and doesn’t roll hardly at all so I’m inclined to leave well enough alone at the moment.

……but that little devil on my shoulder is whispering in my ear. 😈

Thanks! I'm excited to have the Shogun do well in our first club race. Probably won't happen until sometime later this year, but at least that gives me time to prep and to get better. The 48.3 is also going to be on deck, and if the first couple of track sessions with her are any indicator, she's also gonna be a headache to deal with on the track.

I looked up the pill inserts for the Shogun, and it appears that they have 0, 0.5 and 1. I'll assume that's the degrees, but I need to do more research to see it it's anti-squat or toe that the inserts change. Hopefully it's anti-squat. Not that I'm really versed in anti-squat knowledge atm, but I'll read up on it.

For the 48.3, I didn't change anything; completely stock setup for the inserts. I think you'll find that the stock setup is more than capable and would need little to no adjustments, unless your driving needs require something different. I also set my diffs at the stock 20 20 10, and I've found that it works prettty good so far in the 48.3. The Shogun also seems to like that setup as well, as she rotates better in the corners and doesn't exhibit as much push/understeer. It's alot easier to whip her tail out now, though, so I need to adjust my driving habits so that I can keep up with her new driving characteristics.

I'll probably get the PRO arm mounts and bushing set later on and see if that will make her an even better handling truggy for the racetrack. 😁
 
The HS motor came in today. I installed it with a 15T pinion, but that will bring my rpm to roughly 10K, as opposed to the previous 8.6K. I may drop to a 13T if the temps aren't too agreeable.

Speaking of previous setups, the Shogun came in at 10.17lbs or roundabouts with the 4080 motor and and front and rear skids. As previously mentioned, the 4080 motor was replaced with the HS 4274. I also took off the front skid plate but left the rear.

New weight? 9.34lbs. 💪

I think I can shed even more weight by getting rid of the rear skid, replacing the Arrma shocks with Tekno ones and possibly even changing the rear wing to a lighter one. That will probably get the weight down to 9.20-something. If I switch out to titanium turnbuckles, I can probably get the weight down to 9.15 or thereabouts. That will probably be the lightest I can go without going to titanium screws and maybe removing the roll cage and perhaps some bracing.

Just as a comparison, the ET48.3 comes in at 8.60lbs. That means the Shogun isn't too far off in terms of weight; perhaps 3/4 of a pound.

I'm excited to try this new setup. I have a feeling the Shogun is going to be bit slower in terms of top speed, but more nimble around the track and have better control in the infield.

Next weekend should be good. I'll be crossing my fingers.
 
Nice. Lighter does make a compelling argument. 😁

Sunday will show me how the current setup performs. I think with the smaller (and less amp draw) motor I can drop down to the 5200 pack and not worry about making a 10 minute main/heat. I like how I can run for extended periods using the 6500 packs, but I think for the A-Main I'm gonna need to be using a lighter pack. Looks like I need to pinch some pennies and get at least 2 more 5200s.

Using the 5200 pack in the Shogun actually makes her handle rather nicely. Probably not as smooth as the 48, but this is setup has several differences.

- Lighter motor (less amp draw, easier throttle control)
- different center diff fluid (better rotation)
- different spur gear (smoother throttle delivery)

I can shave further weight, but probably not enough to get it down to 8.6lbs. Maybe if I remove the rear brace and the center roll cage and perhaps even some of the plastic tub I can get real close.
 
Also, I weighed a set of Tekno shocks that I have. They came out to .51lb. Anyone have a set of Kraton V5 (not EXB) shocks that they can weigh? Just out of curiosity.
 
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