Hi guys, great fun today between shogun VS Talion. I would.l like that improve shogun steering because I noticed it steers little.... I tightened the ring nut of the servo but I think is necessary high torque. Has anyone of you solved this problem?
Shogun Shogun and servo high torque
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Horatio
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Replace the stock steering saver spring with:
LC 085J 0 M from Lee Spring.
The difference is night and day.
Instead of this,
You now have,
Much, much better.
Then, when you buy a servo with higher torque - it actually reaches the wheels!
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- #3
Thank you for your suggest, I have search LC 085J 0 M but I have found LC 085J 02 M, where do you have taken it? ?What is the height of the Spring? But the improve is noticeable also with stock servo or is mandatory to put a servo with higher torque?View attachment 5862
Replace the stock steering saver spring with:
LC 085J 0 M from Lee Spring.
The difference is night and day.
Instead of this,
View attachment 5863
You now have,
View attachment 5864
Much, much better.
Then, when you buy a servo with higher torque - it actually reaches the wheels!
Horatio
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It needs to be the same number. See spec below:
02M has a significantly lower spring rate and would be less effective.
LC 085J 0 M works equally well for lower torque servos, but will undoubtedly void the warranty on the RTR ones.
I did sell batches of springs, but it was time consuming selling them internationally and certain people don't get how much shipping and stationery costs.
There's a thread here where another member - Dani C, and I carefully went through the requirements of the servo saver spring and decided on this one. See here:
Servo Saver Problem Thread
I tend to do 0-60mph timed runs and a firm spring is essential to avoid torque-steer.
The specified spring works. But you'll likely need to buy a batch of them and sell the ones you don't need to your buddies.
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- #5
Hi, I've read the whole topic, very interesting
I live in Italy, I searched this spring on the Lee Spring website but I only found PDF brochures and not the possibility of purchasing them.. How can I do it? Can you suggest another link? I also searched on Aliexpress but couldn't find it. However, to date (2 years have passed) does your model always steer well?
Horatio
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You should be able to order directly with Lee Spring - try the Lee Spring Germany.Hi, I've read the whole topic, very interesting
Yes, the spring makes a world of difference. It saves in the event of knock. It holds whilst cornering at speed.
You be the judge!
Kronos Wet Run
You can buy it here:
LC 085J 0 M
Scroll to the bottom, add to cart.
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VaporTrail
Well-known member
I've always like a little more torque than necessary in my cars, be it onroad or offroad. I currently have a Hobbystar servo in my Shogun. My servo saver spring is tightened a couple turns looser than stock; I like to have a little bit of play since I run aluminum servo horns and I don't want to strip gears.
I have a used ET48.3 where it seems like they really tightened down the servo saver. I've blown two servos in that truggy already.
I have a used ET48.3 where it seems like they really tightened down the servo saver. I've blown two servos in that truggy already.
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- #8
The cost for a single spring with shipping costs is 16.04You should be able to order directly with Lee Spring - try the Lee Spring Germany.
Yes, the spring makes a world of difference. It saves in the event of knock. It holds whilst cornering at speed.
You be the judge!
Kronos Wet Run
You can buy it here:
LC 085J 0 M
Scroll to the bottom, add to cart.
I was also looking on Aliexpress or temu where are many springs for sale, but I can't find one with more or less the same characteristics...
Horatio
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Buy 10 springs. This way, you avoid the admin charge. Sell 9 of the springs to your forum contacts and buddies back home, put them on eBay.The cost for a single spring with shipping costs is 16.04
Lee Spring isn't a retailer - they're a producer - you're buying direct and essentially you're buying in springs at £3.30ish per spring - but made from music wire.
You need to buy a batch to make it viable, or you pay an admin fee that's greater than the cost of the spring.
You'll not easily find that spec of spring on Chinese websites - doubtful any of the Chinese springs will be made from music wire, either.
I sold all mine in a week, but 1 batch was enough. Chasing international mail and explaining why I couldn't sell them at £3.00 per spring began to wind me up.
The more business minded folk here could probably run a perfectly viable business selling these at profit on eBay/Amazon, but admittedly, the market is rather niche.
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- #10
You're right, but I wouldn't know who to sell them to, because in Italy there is no corally forum team, there is only arrma forum managed by the Italian community, so I would keep the springs for myself. So I think I'll take only one piece
Horatio
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If you have a sloppy servo saver, it doesn't really matter what torque your servo states that it is - the limiting factor will be the sloppy servo saver that it attempts to work through.I've always like a little more torque than necessary in my cars, be it onroad or offroad. I currently have a Hobbystar servo in my Shogun. My servo saver spring is tightened a couple turns looser than stock; I like to have a little bit of play since I run aluminum servo horns and I don't want to strip gears.
I have a used ET48.3 where it seems like they really tightened down the servo saver. I've blown two servos in that truggy already.
When the servo saver spring weakens or if the thumb screw is backed off, steering response is reduced and centering becomes less precise.
This is especially noticeable if you run belted tyres. The Jetkos I run from time to time are 440g per corner!
It was when running these that I realised that the stock servo saver spring was not up to the job. Even when it was almost fully clamped. At 60+mph, the steering needed to work precisely. It's simply not safe otherwise.
The main benefits of the replacement spring are precision - but also the space between the coils allows plenty of saving action in the event of a tumble.
Running like this is no good:
Look at the difference with the new spring:
It's pointless getting high torque servos that can't use more than 10% of their potential because of the spring.
Tutte le molle che ho venduto erano a clienti internazionali: non avevo nemmeno nessuno locale a cui vendere. Sono 30€ per un lotto di molle: dimenticherai presto questo costo iniziale quando avrai uno sterzo che funziona.
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- #12
With this spring LC 085J 0 M you tigh the knurled ring completely until to take the spring closed or no? Usually I use the Arrma AR550050 dBoots Backflip
Wheels for my model, however with this spring the model will run well also with stock wheel or wheel more light?
Wheels for my model, however with this spring the model will run well also with stock wheel or wheel more light?
Horatio
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No - you only need to close tighten the knurled ring down til the spring looks like this:
Perfect.
It will work much better than any other spring, regardless of which tyres you use.
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- #14
OK I will let you know, thank you very much for your suggestionsNo - you only need to close tighten the knurled ring down til the spring looks like this:
View attachment 5904
Perfect.
It will work much better than any other spring, regardless of which tyres you use.
VaporTrail
Well-known member
If you have a sloppy servo saver, it doesn't really matter what torque your servo states that it is - the limiting factor will be the sloppy servo saver that it attempts to work through.
When the servo saver spring weakens or if the thumb screw is backed off, steering response is reduced and centering becomes less precise.
This is especially noticeable if you run belted tyres. The Jetkos I run from time to time are 440g per corner!
It was when running these that I realised that the stock servo saver spring was not up to the job. Even when it was almost fully clamped. At 60+mph, the steering needed to work precisely. It's simply not safe otherwise.
The main benefits of the replacement spring are precision - but also the space between the coils allows plenty of saving action in the event of a tumble.
Running like this is no good:
View attachment 5889
Look at the difference with the new spring:
View attachment 5892
It's pointless getting high torque servos that can't use more than 10% of their potential because of the spring.
Tutte le molle che ho venduto erano a clienti internazionali: non avevo nemmeno nessuno locale a cui vendere. Sono 30€ per un lotto di molle: dimenticherai presto questo costo iniziale quando avrai uno sterzo che funziona.
Oh yes, for onroad antics you need a tight servo saver. Once our track gets smoothed out (if it ever does), then I'll definitely crank the SS down. As it stands, there are five turns that are particularly nasty. Three of them have deep ruts and we keep finding huge rocks popping up. You know it's bad when the rocks have that fresh powder on the tips sticking out.
