Replacement Wheel Hex Adapters

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Partydaz

Partydaz

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Hello all :) ,

I am after some after market wheel hex adapters for my kagama 6s it seems the little lip that sits on the bearing as worn down flat šŸ˜¬ so after some that will last longer if possible , does anyone know of any that are stock size as the ones I seem to come across are 10mm + adapters.

Found these but they are for a Armma Kraton 6s not sure if they will fit? :

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100..._bridge_pc_related_wf__NjW4Owo__1760010473022
 
I did think about using a shim last night but it'll just wear down like the hex inside lip did :unsure:. Guess I'll try the shim for now cheaper then buying new parts then if they don't hold up I'll grab some new hexes, they lasted over a year so cannot really grumble for the amount of use its had šŸ˜„ .
 
the HSP ones fit and cost hardly anything, they are slightly narrower but it's not enough to make a difference.
 
Theyā€™re generally a consumable item, the hex adapters, they donā€™t wear out quickly, but do wear for sure. I would just shim them and carry on. I believe the TC and most rtr models will have 6000 series aluminum adapters which hold up okay. M2C, JBI and others do offer 7075 which should last longer and are offered in different configurations for fitting different wheels and offsets.
I have some Tekno ET48 2.x adapters installed on my TC Kronos XTR. Pretty sure theyā€™re 7075, but the drive pin that locks them to the stub axle is a larger diameter than what TC/Arrma use. I had to enlarge the holes in the TC stub axles to use them, along with some shimming. Not really sure it was worth it, but theyā€™re on now so.šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø
 
Cheers my dudes I'll get some cheapos off aliexpress then I'll get some posh ones later down the line šŸ˜€
 
Partydaz said:
I did think about using a shim last night but it'll just wear down like the hex inside lip did :unsure:. Guess I'll try the shim for now cheaper then buying new parts then if they don't hold up I'll grab some new hexes, they lasted over a year so cannot really grumble for the amount of use its had šŸ˜„ .
Click to expand...
A steel shim isn't going to wear down like aluminum does.
 
Partydaz said:
Hello all :) ,

I am after some after market wheel hex adapters for my kagama 6s it seems the little lip that sits on the bearing as worn down flat šŸ˜¬ so after some that will last longer if possible , does anyone know of any that are stock size as the ones I seem to come across are 10mm + adapters.

Found these but they are for a Armma Kraton 6s not sure if they will fit? :

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100..._bridge_pc_related_wf__NjW4Owo__1760010473022
Click to expand...
Hi, I have these fitted to my Kagama LE, as they are better than the standard ones even on the LE.

IMG_3059.webp
 
chipster said:
Hi, I have these fitted to my Kagama LE, as they are better than the standard ones even on the LE.

View attachment 10710
Click to expand...
Note the setscrew in the side, this is to remove lateral play (rocking) in the adapter without needing to precisely shim the bearing preload. The setscrew locks the adapter to the shaft like a pinion.

ADU racing has discontinued the +5mm adapters but you can still new new old stock here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/156187053408 They are useful for running Mohave 6S tires on an Asuga without the inside of the wheels rubbing on the rear hubs.
 
Atomic Skull said:
Note the setscrew in the side, this is to remove lateral play (rocking) in the adapter without needing to precisely shim the bearing preload. The setscrew locks the adapter to the shaft like a pinion.

ADU racing has discontinued the +5mm adapters but you can still new new old stock here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/156187053408 They are useful for running Mohave 6S tires on an Asuga without the inside of the wheels rubbing on the rear hubs.
Click to expand...
Hi, these are out of stock on that site though, I bought mine through AliExpress. They took 3 weeks to get to me in the UK.
 
Atomic Skull said:
Note the setscrew in the side, this is to remove lateral play (rocking) in the adapter without needing to precisely shim the bearing preload. The setscrew locks the adapter to the shaft like a pinion.

ADU racing has discontinued the +5mm adapters but you can still new new old stock here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/156187053408 They are useful for running Mohave 6S tires on an Asuga without the inside of the wheels rubbing on the rear hubs.
Click to expand...
I have been running Mojave 6s wheels on the Asugas since i bought them and there's only a tiny bit of rubbing.
You can see exactly how deep the wheel sits on the hex.
I put Corally hexes on the Mojave to stop the rubbing problem there.

IMG_20251015_162016857.webp


IMG_20251015_163558458.webp
 
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chipster said:
Hi, these are out of stock on that site though, I bought mine through AliExpress. They took 3 weeks to get to me in the UK.
Click to expand...
Yeah they were also lying they are the +10mm version :mad: In addition I had to lap the little spacer ridge on the bottom down by 0.1mm on three of them to get them to fit. 2 of them would not admit the pin at all and 1 would over load the bearings. Once they were adjusted they fit perfectly though.

I can still use them but I've since found that the M2C Racing +5mm "universal" wheel hex will also fit Corally vehicles, someone here was using them on a Skeeter and had pictures confirming it.

https://m2cracing.net/shop/#!/M2C-3500-17MM-5MM-HEX-UNIVERSAL-HEX-ADAPTER-FOR-8MM-AXLES/p/478044804

They also sell singles for $15 in case you trash just one so you don't need to buy a full set.

Also that setscrew in the ADU Racing wheel extender is just to retain the pin it doesn't lock the adapter to the shaft unfortunately. It looked like it was but hat hole is actually intended for the Krtaton and simikar Arrma vehicles like the M2C racing hubs it is universal with holes for 6S Arrma vehicles and for Corally, Hobao and Arrma 4S vehicles. It's baffling that nobody has used this very obvious solution to the problem of rocking wheel adapters. No need for mucking about with shims and bearing preloads just have an m5 setscrew in it that gets tightened after the pin and grubscrew in the axle are tightened up.
 
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SirCrashALot said:
View attachment 10718
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I despise those pivot ball nuts, it's the one thing I really hate about Corally vehicles. Hot Racing part HRAAON21N02 can be used to replace the Corally pivot ball nuts. They're much easier to thread into the holes without crossthreading because they don't use an interferance thread. And also the center hex doesn't get chewed up because you don't have to litrerally force the nut into the threads. The O-ring will wear out with multiple service cycles but 12mm OD x 1mm CS o-rings are cheap (I get them from O-rings and More) so I just keep a bag of them around. Also 90 duro o-rings work better and last longer than the stock 70 duro ones that come with it.

EDIT: If you have already cross threaded it just toss the hub it's trashed. Trying to thread the Hot Racing nuts into damaged threads will result in greatly increased friction from the ruined threads and you'll chew up the hex center from having to force it in.
 
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Ok so to use the +5mm M2C adapters on a Corally vehicle you use the lower 2.5mm hole for the pin (there are three holes the high 2.5mm one the low 2.5mm and the low 3mm one). You will also need to install a second 12x16x0.2mm shim behind the inner hub bearing so that both the outer and inner sides of the hub have an 12x16x0.2 bearing shim.

You may also may need an 8x12 axle shim between 0.05mm and 0.15m thick depending on tolerances of the components, each steering block or rear hub will be slightly different in this regard. In my case one rear steering hub needed no axle shim, one needed 0.1 and the steering blocks needed a 0.1 axle shim on one side and 0.15 on the other.

EDIT apparently the +10mm "Rev B" adapter was updated to have a hole that exactly matches Corally vehicles, so for that one the extra 12x16x0.2 shim is unnecessary. So the above only applies to the +5mm and +15mm adapters.
 
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