Rear differential problem

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WZ9V

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On my Sketer the front diff turns easily, the center diff turns easily but the rear diff gets hard to turn in two spots each revolution off the main shaft. What would cause that?
 
WZ9V said:
On my Sketer the front diff turns easily, the center diff turns easily but the rear diff gets hard to turn in two spots each revolution off the main shaft. What would cause that?
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The gears are stripped. It's time for a diff rebuild. 👍
 
Yep, something has developed some play most likely inside the diff. I don't know if you have access to any kit breakers in your region, but I find it easier and cheaper to just buy a new diff vs rebuilding. Depends on make/model and where you're located though.
I had an Arrma EXB diff that the ring gear was mising a couple teeth. Arrma gets $40 for just those alone, a whole diff assembly with case, was $50. No point to rebuild it.
I'd highly doubt you can rebuild a diff for less than this.. all the same parts as the Sketer
https://jennysrc.com/collections/co...l-front-rear-factory-built-with-bevel-c-00285

Screenshot_20240514-162744_Samsung Internet.webp
 
Ordered a new diff assembly from Jenny's. Was half the price of a new diff part. I was running through grass but wasn't bashing can't imagine how I broke the diff on the first few runs.
 
WZ9V said:
Ordered a new diff assembly from Jenny's. Was half the price of a new diff part. I was running through grass but wasn't bashing can't imagine how I broke the diff on the first few runs.
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I remember a year ago or so another member had a similar issue, if I recall his would have a bind with no load but if the suspension was compressed it was fine, he was convinced the dog bones were too long, may be worth looking into that area, if yours acts the same as his start messing with camber or turn the droop screws a bit to lower it to a level that doesn't bind maybe
 
AngrySection8 said:
I remember a year ago or so another member had a similar issue, if I recall his would have a bind with no load but if the suspension was compressed it was fine, he was convinced the dog bones were too long, may be worth looking into that area, if yours acts the same as his start messing with camber or turn the droop screws a bit to lower it to a level that doesn't bind maybe
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That actually makes more sense. Both the arms lift slightly as it goes through the tight part of the rotation. Will look into Camber and Droop.
 
Turns out it is droop related. When unloaded the dog bones bottom out in the cups. if I push the arms up a bit it turns freely. Wondering if this is happening because I have the rear assemble removed and might not happen once reattached.
 
WZ9V said:
Turns out it is droop related. When unloaded the dog bones bottom out in the cups. if I push the arms up a bit it turns freely. Wondering if this is happening because I have the rear assemble removed and might not happen once reattached.
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There's a good chance, with the rear module removed you probably have a rather exaggerated angle to your arms you normally wouldn't have when installed on the vehicle
 
Why on earth they still using dog bones?
I admire Thunder Tiger's MT4-G3 that used cvd's all around!
 
Manolis said:
Why on earth they still using dog bones?
I admire Thunder Tiger's MT4-G3 that used cvd's all around!
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Corally CVD's for the XTR still have dog bone ends at the diff output side.

These are what we need - actual constant velocity drive.

1000019693.jpg


Stronger, smoother, serviceable. But ££$$
 
Manolis said:
These are interesting.
Only for 1/5 ?
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There's no reason at all why they should be limited to 1/5th. They would work better than 'cvds'

There's a huge opportunity in the 1/8th market.
 
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