Asuga Project Krasugaton/kasugaton

[Nelson.81]

Had this build in my head for quite a while, time to make it happen. Asuga on Kronos chassis dual battery trays with straight driveline using Kraton shafts. So thats where the name for it comes from whether it ends up on Kronos or kagama chassis will determine krasugaton or kasugaton. I thought that sounded abit like a transformer name so I’ll probably go with a transformer theme, I may have even had AI create a character based on name for a chassis skin design .

Collected some the parts awhile back chassis , esc, servo few other bits then recently the Asuga after a run with it started tearing it down tonight & hit my 1st hurdle already. Removed rear clip of Asuga 1st & put on Kronos chassis no issues there. Then removed front clip & steering servo saver etc all in 1 piece also & removed steering posts. Fitted the steering posts to Kronos chassis & then tried installing the servo saver & front clip etc. I could not get this on in one piece together , so removed steering system servo saver etc and installed separately no problems then tried getting the front clip on and could not get it on without it jamming up the steering, after messing about got pissed off and removed top deck etc to see what was hitting ( the Asuga top deck design is bs too many unnecessary screws plastic pieces , older corally design with 7075 parts much better but have them to be installed). Top deck removed could see Ackerman hitting diff case (ffs I’ve been here before with this issue) I thought all corally bulkhead steering system setups where all same parts & no difference but after fking about with for longer than I should have I measured the distance between steering posts on both chassis and well they different. About 5mm the Ackerman seems to be slightly different design too . I have a spare Kronos Ackerman in a spares box somewhere I’ll have to dig it out see if it gives me the clearance. I had this issue with the Ackerman hitting diff case before on Kronos chassis ended up getting grinder out so I don’t know if this was corally addressing the issue or what but gonna need to get the steering working before go any further. But once I get over that hurdle I can look at the driveline.

 

[Nelson.81]

Can’t get it down fully as hitting given up for tonight. I think Ackerman only part in steering that is different need to check the part no.s on few bits

 

[Nelson.81]

Can see difference between Ackermans, changed it problem solved. Onto the next hurdle seems there’s more differences between these rigs than 1st thought, didn’t think the upper arms would require grinding to fit but they are wider than Kronos/kagama upper arms. Gonna have to take quite a few mm off them to make them fit.

 

[stephane z]

very good work !

 

[Horatio]

Yes, you have to hand it to Nelson - definitely got an eye for detail.

 

[Nelson.81]

Yes, you have to hand it to Nelson - definitely got an eye for detail.

Thanks hit a little hurdle so waiting on parts atm so at a standstill until they arrive.

 

[Nelson.81]

So layed the parts out in the chassis & wasn’t entirely happy with how things where sitting. The centre driveshafts although the fit the where very close to edge of cups, I know not where they would sit normally but in certain situations maybe a chance the could pop out. If I kept the driveline completely straight I could maybe get away with it but I want to be able to keep the t2t tied into the centre diff so it will need to be offset slightly to either side, I picked up the adu centre diff cover for as unlike the corally diff cover the bolt pattern is symmetrical on both sides so I can flip it so suit whatever way I need to. If I wasn’t planning on running a 49xx motor I could have used buggy motor mount to reduce angle of driveline also but I plan a big motor more on that in a moment. So with the driveline being a little shorter than I liked I thought I’d try the layout on the Asuga chassis so swapped everything back over again. The wheelbase on Kronos chassis is 388mm Asuga 384mm and although I managed to get the driveshafts into the chassis it was a battle & shafts where too tight, right back in the drive cups no good but it wasn’t a complete waste of time I had thought about further down the line possibly putting this on kagama but it uses same Ackerman as Asuga so will have same top deck dimensions as Asuga different to Kronos which brings me to my motor choice if I wasn’t planning on going for a motor 4990 or smaller there’s no issues but I plan on a 1721 which is over 100mm so wouldn’t fit on kagama chassis so build won’t be going on a kagama chassis. Which bring me to my solution I’ve ordered an arrma centre diff they fit & are a few mm longer than a corally diff they are 68mm corally 65mm so when that arrives I can crack on with things. Whilst be in there fitted the scorched outdrives & fitted stiffer servo spring. Also ordered different battery trays waiting on them also

 

[Atomic Skull]

So layed the parts out in the chassis & wasn’t entirely happy with how things where sitting. The centre driveshafts although the fit the where very close to edge of cups, I know not where they would sit normally but in certain situations maybe a chance the could pop out.

Normally there's around 3~4mm of fore/aft play in the driveshafts and IIRC the rear one has more than the front one, it's not nearly enough fr there to be any danger of the driveshaft popping out though. I always add o-rings to the inside of the drive cups to reduce this while still leaving a tiny amount of play. I use a slightly oversized 90 duro o-ring with a small section snipped out so it stays in like an internal snap ring and won't just fall out when you remove the driveshaft from the cup.

 

[Nelson.81]

Normally there's around 3~4mm of fore/aft play in the driveshafts and IIRC the rear one has more than the front one, it's not nearly enough fr there to be any danger of the driveshaft popping out though. I always add o-rings to the inside of the drive cups to reduce this while still leaving a tiny amount of play. I use a slightly oversized 90 duro o-ring with a small section snipped out so it stays in like an internal snap ring and won't just fall out when you remove the driveshaft from the cup.

Yes I know it’s small margins & an oring or bit of rubber tubing would central the driveshafts & probably be fine but I’ll just be a bit happier with that extra 3mm plus although the scorched arrma driveshafts fit corally drive cups they are a bit tighter having slightly bigger ball end and steel & titanium don’t play well together a will wear more, it’s one the reasons I got the scorched drive cups to reduce the wear & without them the angle of the shafts they where a little tight in there with the corally cups not an issue with the scorched drive cups fitted so having arrma centre diff will be the same result better fit less wear so a win win overall.

 

[Nelson.81]

I will say fitting a receiver box gonna be a tight fit if anyone has any suggestions for a small receiver box I’m all ears. I might have to go to a servo mount/receiver box combo similar to this zd racing one.

 

[Atomic Skull]

Yes I know it’s small margins & an oring or bit of rubber tubing would central the driveshafts & probably be fine but I’ll just be a bit happier with that extra 3mm plus although the scorched arrma driveshafts fit corally drive cups they are a bit tighter having slightly bigger ball end and steel & titanium don’t play well together a will wear more, it’s one the reasons I got the scorched drive cups to reduce the wear & without them the angle of the shafts they where a little tight in there with the corally cups not an issue with the scorched drive cups fitted so having arrma centre diff will be the same result better fit less wear so a win win overall.

Have you seen the Ramjam Racing 4140 tool steel drive cups yet? The EXB version looks like they will fit a Corally diff directly possibly with some shimming so I ordered a set (EXB version has a 6mm shaft) to see if they will. As well as the front and rear pinion cups which will almost certainly fit.

 

[Horatio]

Thanks hit a little hurdle so waiting on parts atm so at a standstill until they arrive.

But these delays can sometimes be delicious - it helps build the anticipation for the grand finale.

 

[Nelson.81]

Have you seen the Ramjam Racing 4140 tool steel drive cups yet? The EXB version looks like they will fit a Corally diff directly possibly with some shimming so I ordered a set (EXB version has a 6mm shaft) to see if they will. As well as the front and rear pinion cups which will almost certainly fit.

They look surgical they look like they would chop the drive pins off lol

 

[Nelson.81]

Gpm diff & battery trays finally arrived, much happier with how the driveline sits now , no risk of the driveshafts falling out. Axial battery trays if don’t mind drilling your chassis I think these a good option for a different battery trays compared to what is on offer out there for corally atm. But now that I have everything in place I’ve been going back & fwd on whether to keep it on this chassis or put it on a kagama chassis, I think in the long run a kagama chassis will be better, this might mean I can’t fit a 1721 but I think there’s the way I want to build it & the right way to do it so going to do it right way. It will be close to whether or not a 1721 will fit but if not be no need for this big esc so that might end up getting changed too. But going to reach out to Erik van Ravenstein see if he can do me a blank chassis put this on then go from there but that will be after Xmas now. But until then need to get some drift practice in so can kick the rugrats asses on Xmas day lol these little mini drifters great fun even just on kitchen floor best £20 I’ve prob spent in a while

 

[Horatio]

Crikey mate - you've been busy!

 

[Nelson.81]

The builds been at a standstill over Xmas but been in touch with Erik van Ravenstein & things moving again custom chassis in the works, a blank canvas more or less for me to put the build on. Reckons a wk or so until he can get it made. Mocked up chassis braces also, I’ll have EVR make these to eventually but will wait until get chassis & exact measurements before tackle them

 

[Horatio]

The builds been at a standstill over Xmas but been in touch with Erik van Ravenstein & things moving again custom chassis in the works, a blank canvas more or less for me to put the build on. Reckons a wk or so until he can get it made. Mocked up chassis braces also, I’ll have EVR make these to eventually but will wait until get chassis & exact measurements before tackle them

View attachment 11545

View attachment 11546

View attachment 11547

View attachment 11548

View attachment 11549

Brilliant!

 

[Nelson.81]

Parts made, Just gotta wait on delivery now

 

[Nelson.81]

Delivery day all on me now

 

[Horatio]

Wow! Just - wow!