New Cvd’s free fix from corally

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"This breaches my tolerance threshold. The shaft is wonky and your wheel is out of balance. Both matters need to be addressed"
You post that in my thread for this matter!
Manolis

Post in thread 'Brand new JAMBO never step in ground, has bend shaft :/'

While waiting for the parts to arrive, can you suggest any other upgrades I should implement before I (finally) start bashing?
Motor mount?ShockTowers? etc..
 
Manolis said:
"This breaches my tolerance threshold. The shaft is wonky and your wheel is out of balance. Both matters need to be addressed"
You post that in my thread for this matter!
Manolis

Post in thread 'Brand new JAMBO never step in ground, has bend shaft :/'

While waiting for the parts to arrive, can you suggest any other upgrades I should implement before I (finally) start bashing?
Motor mount?ShockTowers? etc..
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Yes, it wouldn't be on my rig like that - it would be straightened because it's not arrow straight. No good for speed running. Fine for blasting around a field.

I certainly wouldn't be spinning anything like that with it all to cock either.

The much more pressing issue is the wheel/tyre. Hopefully you've fixed both by now.

Difficult to tell with people quite often, as there's a tendency on forums to only post the problems, never an update with the solutions afforded. 👍😉
 
I haven't bothered to install the new parts yet. When I do, I'll update, of course.
 
Manolis said:
This car never touched the ground...
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Certainly it’s yours to use as you wish, or not, but these are toys. How I see it anyway, never perfect, life’s too short IMO. If it shakes, no big deal, even if everything is perfectly straight and balanced, does it really stay that way? Not for long. Just my view.✌️
 
KnowAir said:
Certainly it’s yours to use as you wish, or not, but these are toys. How I see it anyway, never perfect, life’s too short IMO. If it shakes, no big deal, even if everything is perfectly straight and balanced, does it really stay that way? Not for long. Just my view.✌️
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Horses for courses!

Toys in the same way that Yachts are for those that can afford them. 😝

I always used to look at my RC cars as a sport. Until I wasn't racing, then I realised it was 'just a hobby'.

So it's all relative I suppose.

People can draw their own conclusions with regards to how straight their rigs should be. If they're being run in the dirt every day and left in a barn afterwards, then I suppose there's less of an incentive to keep them spotless.

Old habits die hard with me. Stuff has to be ship-shape, all of the time. It pains me when stuff is either dirty or broken. 🤣

That said, I do hide my rigs in the garage for a night if they're too disgraceful to bring into my RC room.

The main reason for this is that I am fanny-whipped. 😅😉
 
Horatio said:
Horses for courses!

Toys in the same way that Yachts are for those that can afford them. 😝

I always used to look at my RC cars as a sport. Until I wasn't racing, then I realised it was 'just a hobby'.

So it's all relative I suppose.

People can draw their own conclusions with regards to how straight their rigs should be. If they're being run in the dirt every day and left in a barn afterwards, then I suppose there's less of an incentive to keep them spotless.

Old habits die hard with me. Stuff has to be ship-shape, all of the time. It pains me when stuff is either dirty or broken. 🤣

That said, I do hide my rigs in the garage for a night if they're too disgraceful to bring into my RC room.

The main reason for this is that I am fanny-whipped. 😅😉
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No shame in keeping things "hot n ready"! LOL. All my rigs get parked in the barn, shiny doesn't equal faster, though it helps spot problems before they become failures. IF I were keeping them in the Castle, you can bet they'd be clean, I'm fanny-whipped too! Mama don't take kindly to that stuff! :p
 
Good news, Email received!

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Horatio said:
💯 It is. Nice one TC.

Dave from scorched parts was asking some questions.

Wouldn't it be great if we saw parts for TC? 🤞😉
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I must say, it is amazingly good service. A company holding its hands up and saying yes we agree that's not good enough let's make it better and we'll do it for free.

Doesn't happen often.
 
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Horatio said:
💯 It is. Nice one TC.

Dave from scorched parts was asking some questions.

Wouldn't it be great if we saw parts for TC? 🤞😉
Click to expand...
Horatio said:
💯 It is. Nice one TC.

Dave from scorched parts was asking some questions.

Wouldn't it be great if we saw parts for TC? 🤞😉
Click to expand...
I’ll have to drop some pics on his fb when I get my build done then give him a push. The hubs really wouldn’t need much adaptation to fit a corally , really just the internal bearing being different size & width for axles don’t think that would be a massive design change.
 
So I didn’t register my Kronos for the new cvds but I had registered it previously when I bought it so decided to check my emails & guess what I’m getting new cvds too 😁. Corally I salute you 🫡

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Horatio said:
That would certainly reduce the size of the spacer required if I run with the Corally hexes. 👍
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A small rubber O-ring works better than shims to preload the bearings and eliminate bearing wobble but then some space has to be designed in between the hex and the bearing for that. This allows preloading without risk of overloading the bearing by adding too much shim because the O-ring as some flex to it. JR Propo does that in the tail grips on the Forza 700 helicopter but the same idea would work here. The problem with the tail grips is that they are on a solid steel hub and spindle so manufacturing tolerances are such that there has to be a bit of play designed in between the tail blade grips and the hub or else you risk the bearings sometimes locking up when the spindle screw that holds it all together is tightened down if the tolerace of all the parts stack up too tighly. You can shim that out but that risks too mutch shim damaging the bearings as you experiment. JR Propo opted to put a 1mm space btween the inner hub side bearing and the hub and then a 1.5mm cross section o-ring to preload the bearings in the tail grip.

The wheel hex and hub bearings on an RC car has similar problems and so a simlar solution would work.

Eliminating hex wobble could be done with the addition of a setscrew to the hex that would lock it down to the axle. The pin and setscrew would be installed first as normal then the "anti wobble" setscrew in the side of the hex would be tightened last. This is a mod you could do to existing hexes with a drill press and thread tap.

forza700tail.webp
 
Atomic Skull said:
A small rubber O-ring works better than shims to preload the bearings and eliminate bearing wobble but then some space has to be designed in between the hex and the bearing for that. This allows preloading without risk of overloading the bearing by adding too much shim because the O-ring as some flex to it. JR Propo does that in the tail grips on the Forza 700 helicopter but the same idea would work here. The problem with the tail grips is that they are on a solid steel hub and spindle so manufacturing tolerances are such that there has to be a bit of play designed in between the tail blade grips and the hub or else you risk the bearings sometimes locking up when the spindle screw that holds it all together is tightened down if the tolerace of all the parts stack up too tighly. You can shim that out but that risks too mutch shim damaging the bearings as you experiment. JR Propo opted to put a 1mm space btween the inner hub side bearing and the hub and then a 1.5mm cross section o-ring to preload the bearings in the tail grip.

The wheel hex and hub bearings on an RC car has similar problems and so a simlar solution would work.

Eliminating hex wobble could be done with the addition of a setscrew to the hex that would lock it down to the axle. The pin and setscrew would be installed first as normal then the "anti wobble" setscrew in the side of the hex would be tightened last. This is a mod you could do to existing hexes with a drill press and thread tap.

View attachment 9556
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That's a thrust bearing right - like what we might find in a 1/10th ball diff.
1000035006.webp

They require a spring, or a disc spring for the bearing to work.

This is a slightly different set of requirements compared to what we need in our axles and wheel hexes.

A tick of play in an axle isn't bad, but much over 0.2mm likely needs shimming.

Making up a 3 mm ideally needs a spacer - unless you don't mind using 15 shims per axle. 😝

1000034815.webp

Or:
1000034871.webp

Sorted. Note the fireteam hole is used. Also note the hex is a much healthier width than the pitifully inadequate Kraton hex width (which simply eats wheels). These are the bread and butter things that actually matter.

That being said, there's an o-ring in the wheel nut - to help prevent them from falling off. 😝
 
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Got my free rebuild kit yesterday :D . Like how they give you scan code things for the how to videos. Big thanks TC 😘

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Horatio said:
That's a thrust bearing right - like what we might find in a 1/10th ball diff.
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It's two radial bearings with a thrust bearing on the end of the stack that takes up the load through the outside tube of the outer bearing. They don't show the bearing that is installed under the thrust bearing on the outside in that diagram. Some designs have the thrust bearing in the middle of the stack instead and in that case the load is passed through the center tube of the outer bearing to the bolt that holds it all together. There is always a shim between the outer radial bearing and the thrust bearing either matching the OD or ID depending on which way the load gets passed through the bearing. The tail spins at around 9,000rpm and without the thrust bearing the radial bearings would lock up under the centrifugal load.

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KDS_new_bearings.webp
 
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