New Cvd’s free fix from corally

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Good question.
I've placed 2 orders for other stuff from team corally since I've registered my cars.
I've not received anything.
 
I registered on the 15th, nothing from them so far, I will just wait patiently.
 
I posted my email concerning my Kagama once I received the email that I shipped took me a week to receive the repair kit. I did get a email verifying my claim early on though, here’s the email I received verifying my axle claim my email was 3/26/25

IMG_8459.webp
 
Seems like my ISP is filtering emails from TC as spam which is why I never seem to get a response from them on anything. There doesn't seem to be a way to let them though the only option is to add to the filter not whitelist an email address.
 
Oh, there it is - in between a message for a hook up with lippy Lola and a month supply of blue pills 🔵

In other news, apparently I urgently need to give all my personal details to Microsoft Security Department.

1000034754.gif
 
I also registered on the 15th for my Kagama. But nothing yet; also no email.
But it seems the repair kit has just becamr available again on the TC website, so 🤞
 
Huh, I completely missed this thread, LOL. I only own one TC rig, a 2021 Kronos XTR, which ironically I literally just had my first CVD failure about a month ago! I didn't have the exact right diameter pin for it, but close counts, still running. I know many have experienced CVD failure but after 3 years of use I can't fault TC in any way, I'm quite satisfied with the original parts. The stubs are pretty well worn out though, pin holes are egged out to the point that the drive pin is just slapping around in the stub. I'm actually shocked it is still working TBH.
I remember when TC came out with the free front hub upgrade for the 6s rigs. I had just gotten my Kronos XTR, hadn't had an issue with the original parts but figured why not? Free is free, right? Well, sort of. Cost me nearly $25 in shipping from Belgium to US, LOL. It's the thought that counts! Thanks TC!
 
AggyMi said:
That's a shame, there's an irony that an RC car is probably one of the few high value items you can buy that doesn't actually have a serial number anywhere on it 🤷🏽‍♂️
Click to expand...
Some do. I have TRX and Arrma rigs that have serial numbers. Though they are literally just stickers stuck on the chassis plates, the TRX was at least a WP sticker, Arrma was not.
 
Manolis said:
My "Jambo" has a bent rear axle and hasn't moved a single inch since I bought it in August '24!
Click to expand...
Bent? Hardly. It's a mere wobble, LOL. I think every rc I own has worses wobbles than that. Though there is something amiss with that tire, might have water trapped in it. Pencil tip soldering iron is my tool of choice for venting mounted tires. Then I tape off the wheel vent holes.
 
Nelson.81 said:

View attachment 9240
Click to expand...
Wow! That's quite the process for removing a CVD? He must get paid by the hour, LOL. Me, loosen grub screw securing hub adapter. Then remove the wheel, pin and hub adapter, followed by the inner upper arm hinge pin. Done. Reverse to reinstall. I think it's about a 5 minute job.
 
KnowAir said:
Wow! That's quite the process for removing a CVD? He must get paid by the hour, LOL. Me, loosen grub screw securing hub adapter. Then remove the wheel, pin and hub adapter, followed by the inner upper arm hinge pin. Done. Reverse to reinstall. I think it's about a 5 minute job.
Click to expand...
Exactly how I would do it. There isn't a quicker way. 👍

I'm acquainted with this process right now, faffing about working out what parts I can retain, without losing too much track at the front of mine when using Kraton hubs.

So far, I'm down to just 7mm per side. But I'll need axle shims/spacers - just 3.2mm per side. 😅
 
Horatio said:
Exactly how I would do it. There isn't a quicker way. 👍

I'm acquainted with this process right now, faffing about working out what parts I can retain, without losing too much track at the front of mine when using Kraton hubs.

So far, I'm down to just 7mm per side. But I'll need axle shims/spacers - just 3.2mm per side. 😅
Click to expand...
Yeah that’s me when I’m jonesing to bash, like while my bro is out there ripping packs cuz he doesn’t want to wait for me, LOL. It’s certainly not a race to wrench most of the time, sometimes it’s therapeutic. Though I really don’t like unthreading pivot/pillow balls anymore than necessary as the threads tend to loosen up in the arms with each install/removal I feel.
Also depends on construction of the rig you’re working on.
 
Horatio said:
Exactly how I would do it. There isn't a quicker way. 👍

I'm acquainted with this process right now, faffing about working out what parts I can retain, without losing too much track at the front of mine when using Kraton hubs.

So far, I'm down to just 7mm per side. But I'll need axle shims/spacers - just 3.2mm per side. 😅
Click to expand...
You could maybe consider running wider bearings 6mm instead of 5mm
 
KnowAir said:
Bent? Hardly. It's a mere wobble, LOL. I think every rc I own has worses wobbles than that. Though there is something amiss with that tire, might have water trapped in it. Pencil tip soldering iron is my tool of choice for venting mounted tires. Then I tape off the wheel vent holes.
Click to expand...
This car never touched the ground...
 
Back
Top