Kagama Me killing my Kagama rear diffs

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trippinmunky

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Corally RC's
  1. Kagama
Hi,

So I got a Kagama second hand and soon after I got it there was a clicking noise on acceleration, AI told me I had chipped a tooth on the rear diff, I took it apart and it was correct, a complete tooth totally gone
20261011_204759.webp

so I ordered a new part and then about 20 mins into the first run after fitting it it was clicking again, I carried on for a while longer and it got worse so stopped (maybe should have stopped immediately...)
Got home took the diff apart and this time I have partly chipped a lot of teeth
20261011_204813.webp


So do I need to replace the other gear that this meshes with? Always replace as a pair?

I was doing some small jumps but pretty sure I didn't have the accelerator on full when landing, normally brake a little as I have this reaction of seeing the nose dip and wanting to push the control forwards to brake for some reason

I just remembered that when I removed the diffs there were these what I presume are shims around the diff, but they didnt look the correct size so I didnt put them back on when I rebuilt the diff
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I have 30k, 500k, 20k
I didnt have any 10k, but will order some when I get my new gears

What else do I need to do to stop this continually happening?
Shims?
Metal diff case?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
1. Yes you need to replace the other gear, called the pinion with a spur.
2. Replace or at least inspect the bearings that support the pinion and the diff. 4 bearings in total.
3. Then you will need to shim the diff to a achieve the proper mesh.

A properly set up corally diff is nearly indestructible. If you are still breaking them then you are going to have to stop abusing the vehicle or get comfortable replacing parts on a frequent basis.
 
Best to replace both gears but not setting the mesh when rebuilding diff has cost you, part of the learning curve.
 
Definitely buy legit steel pinion and crown. Strip down the transmission case. I suspect there may be foreign object debris inside your casing. Remove all trace - otherwise this will happen again and again.

Setting the mesh:
  • Too tight - the crown gear needs to be moved away from the input pinion with shims behind the bearing on the opposite side to crown gear
  • Too loose - the crown gear needs to be moved closer to the pinion, by placing shims behind the bearing on the crown wheel side
Mesh between the pinion and crown should not be tight, but - there should be zero backlash.

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13 x 16 x 0.1 or 0.2 can set the side to side position of the diff. How many shims you need depends entirely on your transmission case and your gear mesh. It could be none - or up to 3.

Shims serve 2 purposes in this instance:
  • Set the position of the crown relative to the pinion
  • Removes any side to side movement of the diff within the casing
You can also set the position of the input pinion using 6 x 11 x 0.2 shims.

Hope this helps.
 
The bearing on the ring gear side of the diff is often the first to fail. When this happens, the mesh is lost and the gears are susceptible to failure. Inspect often.

Again corally diffs are strong. The quality is up there with my Tekno and Kyosho diffs.
 
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