Kagama Me killing my Kagama rear diffs

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The shims are mandatory, if you removed them you will kill a diff, especially the rear diff, extremely fast. When setting mesh using shims, there is no really great way to explain it. Try to watch videos and give it your best. If you end up buying a new Kagama while using the current one for a spare, you can practice with that. The main thing to remember is that the gearbox should rotate smoothly for an entire rotation when done.

I had decided to get a new one anyway but thats a great idea to use the old one for practise, love it
 
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Yes between the case and the bearing :).

I have the extreme metal diff cases in my Kagama 6s as the rear one would leak all the bloody time and the sexy team corally extreme aluminum ones have been bullet proof no leaks at all after a good summer of abuse.

Cheaper option but just as good is the ADU version, got them on my syncro 4 lovely bit of kit:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007327636174.html?pdp_npi=4@dis!GBP!£14.08!£13.66!!!121.13!117.52!@210389a017918241144291174e0d44!12000040282510527!sh!GB!0!X&spm=a1z65.store_weex_home.shop_wireless_search_module.1005007327636174.
Do you just have the xtreme diff case or do you have the 7075 gearbox case as well?
 
So I have finally got around to doing the front diff


Is it set up correctly? I think I have less backlash than in the TC videos posted before. I do hear a click when I hold the pinion and rock the big gear back and forth
I have the ADU metal diff case and original plastic gearbox case
I have 2 x 0.1mm shims on each side
Brand new out the box with the plastic diff case there were 2 x 0.1mm shims on the big gear side only

There is very little to no movement up and down in the direction of the arrows in the pic below
20261105_000332.webp
 
So I have finally got around to doing the front diff


Is it set up correctly? I think I have less backlash than in the TC videos posted before. I do hear a click when I hold the pinion and rock the big gear back and forth
I have the ADU metal diff case and original plastic gearbox case
I have 2 x 0.1mm shims on each side
Brand new out the box with the plastic diff case there were 2 x 0.1mm shims on the big gear side only

There is very little to no movement up and down in the direction of the arrows in the pic below
View attachment 13389
So 2 shims takes up the slack that would otherwise result in the diff flopping around, side to side. Now you have to decide - is my gear mesh just right, with zero backlash? If it's too tight, you redistribute the shims to move the crown gear away from the input. If it's too loose a mesh, place the shims to move the crown closer in.

Essentially, with 2 shims, you have 3 options:
  • 2 shims on crowngear side
  • 1 shim either side
  • 2 shims on the opposite side to the crown gear
If you need more options, use thinner shims - for example, if you're currently using 2 x 0.2 shims, you could instead use 4 x 0.1 shims, which will help you find tune the mesh.

The only advice I can offer is the feel of a crown and input pinion needs to be precise - smooth without slop.

When compared to say - a pinion and spur - where we typically have a tick of play, on an input and crown gear, it needs to be zero backlash.

If rotation seems to be crunchy or lumpy - then it's too tight. Don't let people tell you that the gears will 'bed in' like this. They won't. What they will do is wear prematurely - then fail.
 
No, you must have misread

I have 2 x 0.1mm shims on each side, there are 4 shims in total
2 on the crown gear side
2 on the other side

There is very little to zero movement in the direction of the yellow arrow in the photo in my previous post

There is a little bit of backlash, certainly less than the guy has in the TC videos.

I am not sure if you can hear on the youtube video but there is a click when I hold the input gear and rock the crown gear back and forth

If I take out 1 of the shims on the crown side then I have about the same amount of backlash as on the TC videos
 
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