Kronos xtr truggy build

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If anyone interested in thermometer see it here, mine didn’t come with usb plug but just pulled the positive/negative wires out of the plug it did come with and attached them to end of battery for demonstrating I’ll just put jst plug on it and power it through the receiver when installing in Kronos.

Got mine on AliExpress
I just found this on AliExpress: £7.18 | DC 4-25V Digital Thermometer LCD Display Screen Car Water Temperature Meter NTC 10K Metal Probe for Aquarium
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzUiPo0

 
Nice! Where do you plan to mount the thermometer display?

I was also thinking about adding some LED's to mine, I've got some laying around from my old RC. There it was mounted in the body, which I hated. So if I do install some lights I will definitely mount them to the shocktower and/or bumper. Probably 3D print something. The lights I have aren't super bright, so they make the car visible but don't really let you see what your driving on. My bash spots are also pretty dark, so it would be cool if I was able to really drive in the dark. I was thinking of getting a COB LED chip, you can get really powerful ones for cheap (altough on sites like Ali the power is usually overestimated). But that would require waterproofing and some sort of enclosure, so IDK yet. Might just solder some LED's from a couple random torches to make a light bar of some sort.
 
Nice! Where do you plan to mount the thermometer display?

I was also thinking about adding some LED's to mine, I've got some laying around from my old RC. There it was mounted in the body, which I hated. So if I do install some lights I will definitely mount them to the shocktower and/or bumper. Probably 3D print something. The lights I have aren't super bright, so they make the car visible but don't really let you see what your driving on. My bash spots are also pretty dark, so it would be cool if I was able to really drive in the dark. I was thinking of getting a COB LED chip, you can get really powerful ones for cheap (altough on sites like Ali the power is usually overestimated). But that would require waterproofing and some sort of enclosure, so IDK yet. Might just solder some LED's from a couple random torches to make a light bar of some sort.
Thermometer plan on trying to attach it to roll cage and have it facing out the rear cab window of truck body if not there rear bumper.

I don’t run at night or in dark but when weather better in late evenings when light starts fade lights can make it a little easier just keep sight/orientation of them, well for my blind ass anyway. Cob LEDs definitely better but do add bit more drain on batteries, with max6 being power hungry, fans, thermometer & lights I may add a separate bec & Lipo power it all. I wouldn’t fit lights to bumpers I’ve broke enough of them to know they don’t last if placed there. I’ve broke I don’t know how many these little bike LEDs 🤦🏻‍♂️ but they work well as long as they last.

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There’s one in. Brought the rig into work tonight get bit done , waited on shims coming in , ordered them from local hobby shop(1hr away) 48hr postage but royal mail decided they needed to go on a tour of postal depots on the mainland before coming back to Belfast a wk later 🤦🏻‍♂️ and of course in end I didn’t need them 😂 if anything it’s too tight with the 2 shims that where already installed on diff case I think I’m going to remove them or use thinner shims def too tight not spinning as freely as the rear atm but that me done working on it tonight.

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There’s one in. Brought the rig into work tonight get bit done , waited on shims coming in , ordered them from local hobby shop(1hr away) 48hr postage but royal mail decided they needed to go on a tour of postal depots on the mainland before coming back to Belfast a wk later 🤦🏻‍♂️ and of course in end I didn’t need them 😂 if anything it’s too tight with the 2 shims that where already installed on diff case I think I’m going to remove them or use thinner shims def too tight not spinning as freely as the rear atm but that me done working on it tonight.

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The shims used need to be sufficient to take up any sideways movement of the diff - there shouldn't be any.

However, how tight it feels is determined by which side of the diff you place the shim/s. Assuming 2 shims are used:

if you placed them both on the Crown side, this would move the crown towards the input pinion, reducing backlash (play) and making it tighter by the thickness of 2 shims.

Alternatively, you could try 1 either side - this would make it slightly less tight (by the thickness of 1 shim).

Or you could place both shims on the non-crown side of the diff - this would move the crown away from the input pinion, making it less tight by the thickness of 2 shims.

Whether you use any shims, or how many, is based on how tight or loose the gears are. Ideally, there should be no play in these gears, but without being tight or lumpy.

Too much play will quickly result in stripped teeth. And sound like a bag of nails.

Too tight and your rig will be inefficient and run hot - not to mention sound like a bag of nails!

Modern kits are usually pretty good, with excellent tolerances, so the precise number of shims and where they go is normally stated.

On the XTR, it's typically vague like most RTR/Rollers (being factory assembled) so the shimming isn't specified.
 
The shims used need to be sufficient to take up any sideways movement of the diff - there shouldn't be any.

However, how tight it feels is determined by which side of the diff you place the shim/s. Assuming 2 shims are used:

if you placed them both on the Crown side, this would move the crown towards the input pinion, reducing backlash (play) and making it tighter by the thickness of 2 shims.

Alternatively, you could try 1 either side - this would make it slightly less tight (by the thickness of 1 shim).

Or you could place both shims on the non-crown side of the diff - this would move the crown away from the input pinion, making it less tight by the thickness of 2 shims.

Whether you use any shims, or how many, is based on how tight or loose the gears are. Ideally, there should be no play in these gears, but without being tight or lumpy.

Too much play will quickly result in stripped teeth. And sound like a bag of nails.

Too tight and your rig will be inefficient and run hot - not to mention sound like a bag of nails!

Modern kits are usually pretty good, with excellent tolerances, so the precise number of shims and where they go is normally stated.

On the XTR, it's typically vague like most RTR/Rollers (being factory assembled) so the shimming isn't specified.
Mesh felt borderline too tight before bolted front cover on & once it was on definitely too tight can feel difference how freely it spins compared to rear diff and after that I noticed I was back to the situation of Ackerman hitting diff case. Going to leave until I’m not working nightshift get a better look at what’s going on but think I’m gonna ditch the gpm servo saver as it seems be the culprit there’s a bit of play in it maybe shimming it will help but nightshift in work not the time to be doing it need work on my real car too atm so might be sidelined for a bit until get time 🤯🤬
 
Mesh felt borderline too tight before bolted front cover on & once it was on definitely too tight can feel difference how freely it spins compared to rear diff and after that I noticed I was back to the situation of Ackerman hitting diff case. Going to leave until I’m not working nightshift get a better look at what’s going on but think I’m gonna ditch the gpm servo saver as it seems be the culprit there’s a bit of play in it maybe shimming it will help but nightshift in work not the time to be doing it need work on my real car too atm so might be sidelined for a bit until get time 🤯🤬
My commiserations. It can be tough burning the midnight oil, trying to get RC stuff done.

I'm busy at the moment with work and music, so my RC stuff is taking 'a bit of a back seat'. Weather being cold and stormy means pretty much zero RC stuff of any kind. 💩

Come the spring, I'll be back on it. I'm itching to get my Losi 22X-4 Elite finished with top end kit. But before that - I have to put some coin into a future proof, FASST compatible radio.

That's at least another £550 commitment, with a Futaba T7XC.

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And whilst I'll have no trouble finding TFHSS receivers for this, the compatible FASST ones are rare as Unicorn tears. The additional issue is that all my existing FASST receivers are not compatible.

So I may have to reserve my new radio for future builds. My Trusty 3VCS can be used with my existing rigs whilst I source a full compliment of FASST receivers. 🤞
 
My commiserations. It can be tough burning the midnight oil, trying to get RC stuff done.

I'm busy at the moment with work and music, so my RC stuff is taking 'a bit of a back seat'. Weather being cold and stormy means pretty much zero RC stuff of any kind. 💩

Come the spring, I'll be back on it. I'm itching to get my Losi 22X-4 Elite finished with top end kit. But before that - I have to put some coin into a future proof, FASST compatible radio.

That's at least another £550 commitment, with a Futaba T7XC.

View attachment 7790
And whilst I'll have no trouble finding TFHSS receivers for this, the compatible FASST ones are rare as Unicorn tears. The additional issue is that all my existing FASST receivers are not compatible.

So I may have to reserve my new radio for future builds. My Trusty 3VCS can be used with my existing rigs whilst I source a full compliment of FASST receivers. 🤞
They’re is definitely something more classic & cool looking about the stick transmitters but do prefer using wheel, and I def can’t read all the Chinese kung fu lingo going on there lol. I would have thought if they sold the tx the rx for them would be easily available for them especially by big company like futaba
 
They’re is definitely something more classic & cool looking about the stick transmitters but do prefer using wheel, and I def can’t read all the Chinese kung fu lingo going on there lol. I would have thought if they sold the tx the rx for them would be easily available for them especially by big company like futaba
Yes, I think the radio in the picture there is set to Japanese! 🤣

The T-FHSS Rx are common. They're not cheap, but they are plentiful. They are very high response, but I'm not convinced the range would be as good as FASST.

As all my cars, drones, aircraft and glider are controlled by stick, switching between wheel and stick isn't an option for me. Memory muscle. 😅

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I have used steering wheel radios with other people's rigs, but it doesn't feel instinctive to me. My main concern is that getting used to wheel radio on my XTR would compromise my stick use with my large scale aircraft, which would potentially be very bad. 😅
 
Yes, I think the radio in the picture there is set to Japanese! 🤣

The T-FHSS Rx are common. They're not cheap, but they are plentiful. They are very high response, but I'm not convinced the range would be as good as FASST.

As all my cars, drones, aircraft and glider are controlled by stick, switching between wheel and stick isn't an option for me. Memory muscle. 😅

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I have used steering wheel radios with other people's rigs, but it doesn't feel instinctive to me. My main concern is that getting used to wheel radio on my XTR would compromise my stick use with my large scale aircraft, which would potentially be very bad. 😅
Look at all that carbon loveliness I had been looking at getting a better tx for heli’s mainly the radiomaster tx16 but these tx your posting making it look 2nd rate 🤦🏻‍♂️ dam you 😅
 
Look at all that carbon loveliness I had been looking at getting a better tx for heli’s mainly the radiomaster tx16 but these tx your posting making it look 2nd rate 🤦🏻‍♂️ dam you 😅
It's an old radio now! 🤭 But - it's functional and runs Crossfire, which has excellent range for my Drones.

The beautiful carbon look is a dipped finish. But it is a good looking radio - reminiscent of the JR radios from the 00's.

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More than a passing resemblance....🤓

The Radio Masters are packing really nice, full colour screens.

However, my LCD screen has been 'slightly adjusted' on boot up to display:

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Got to love Open Tx. 😝

One of really nice features was the ability to use this radio as the controller on my drone simulator. I'm convinced that this has saved me many, many crashes.

How do you cope, switching between sticks for Heli and Steering Wheel for cars?
 
It's an old radio now! 🤭 But - it's functional and runs Crossfire, which has excellent range for my Drones.

The beautiful carbon look is a dipped finish. But it is a good looking radio - reminiscent of the JR radios from the 00's.

View attachment 7792
More than a passing resemblance....🤓

The Radio Masters are packing really nice, full colour screens.

However, my LCD screen has been 'slightly adjusted' on boot up to display:

View attachment 7793
Got to love Open Tx. 😝

One of really nice features was the ability to use this radio as the controller on my drone simulator. I'm convinced that this has saved me many, many crashes.

How do you cope, switching between sticks for Heli and Steering Wheel for cars?
I’ve only really flown gyro heli’s fly similar to drones but would like to try to get more into the 3D flying & had been looking at simulators also get grips with things so a tx can use on a sim & for flying would be handy.
 
My commiserations. It can be tough burning the midnight oil, trying to get RC stuff done.

I'm busy at the moment with work and music, so my RC stuff is taking 'a bit of a back seat'. Weather being cold and stormy means pretty much zero RC stuff of any kind. 💩

Come the spring, I'll be back on it. I'm itching to get my Losi 22X-4 Elite finished with top end kit. But before that - I have to put some coin into a future proof, FASST compatible radio.

That's at least another £550 commitment, with a Futaba T7XC.

View attachment 7790
And whilst I'll have no trouble finding TFHSS receivers for this, the compatible FASST ones are rare as Unicorn tears. The additional issue is that all my existing FASST receivers are not compatible.

So I may have to reserve my new radio for future builds. My Trusty 3VCS can be used with my existing rigs whilst I source a full compliment of FASST receivers. 🤞
I was just watching some vids on radio master tx/rx burning midnight oil I’ve not seen these kind of rx before but the little ELRS receivers are pretty outstanding maybe your aware of them being into drones but not expensive and ridiculous range. Like that they have built in antenna in rx but don’t know if I’d pick a radiomaster tx16 over that futaba you posted based on looks anyway but can See rx in this vid if interested. Few hrs work left to kill maybe go do little bit now. 😅

 
I was just watching some vids on radio master tx/rx burning midnight oil I’ve not seen these kind of rx before but the little ELRS receivers are pretty outstanding maybe your aware of them being into drones but not expensive and ridiculous range. Like that they have built in antenna in rx but don’t know if I’d pick a radiomaster tx16 over that futaba you posted based on looks anyway but can See rx in this vid if interested. Few hrs work left to kill maybe go do little bit now. 😅

I use TBS Crossfire on my drones - it has about 30km range. That's not a typo - 30km. 🤩

I like the TX16, but dual axis sticks. I like the price of it as well! 😅
 
I use TBS Crossfire on my drones - it has about 30km range. That's not a typo - 30km. 🤩

I like the TX16, but dual axis sticks. I like the price of it as well! 😅
30k and there’s me being impressed with 1/2 mile 😂. On my rc cars/heli on ever used rtr tx/rx or dumborc x6 & ddf350 so never anything fancy & never really looked at rx performance just got what I needed. But can see with drones helicopter tx/rx definitely got bit more to learn with different protocols, s-bus and whatever else I don’t know yet. But definitely like no ariel feature one my pet hates on rc cars losing antenna sleeves/tips nothing I do keeps them in place lol.
 
30k and there’s me being impressed with 1/2 mile 😂. On my rc cars/heli on ever used rtr tx/rx or dumborc x6 & ddf350 so never anything fancy & never really looked at rx performance just got what I needed. But can see with drones helicopter tx/rx definitely got bit more to learn with different protocols, s-bus and whatever else I don’t know yet. But definitely like no ariel feature one my pet hates on rc cars losing antenna sleeves/tips nothing I do keeps them in place lol.
Well there's a possibility of some BVLOS flights (permission has to be granted first from the relevant aviation authority), but I have legitimate reasons for conducting such flights (Gov).

The majority of my FPV stuff will be for recreation, but as we know - drones are super useful. So, I'm prepared for 'longer than average flights'. Getting into places consumer drones can't reach.

My video link is less than 30km, but so long as I'm getting good visuals and healthy RSSI values, I'm good for the mission.

Another really nice thing is that if my UAS is shot down or lost, I'll still have viable video evidence contingency on my Goggles, so win-win. With consumer drones, this often isn't the case - even with really expensive stuff. So 🙏🤞
 
Finally painted the body been sitting with liquid mask on it for god knows how long 😅 still some stickers/decals to add I’ll get better pics when not working. Also picked up a hobbywing 10a bec to run fans, lights, & thermometer but still to install these was waiting until body painted so can position thermometer in rear window & make sure enough space for the axial battery tray this will be placed on t2t chassis brace in front of gps. Haven’t had time lately to busy looking for a new car my current car rust bucket lol but off to Liverpool on Monday hopefully new wheels & being a LFC fan a trip to anfield also 😁 and after that should have time finish this off just in time for the lovely spring weather we going to get 🤞

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Wow - that's turned out rather nicely. What a build! 😎👍

This proves that rigs like the XTR should come in 2 versions. Ready built rollers. And a kit.

Because most people here like taking their rigs apart and rebuilding them differently anyway!

Bring back the kits I say! 😁
 
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