Kronos XTR Kronos 2023?

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samo975

samo975

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Hey all. I am just getting back into the RC car hobby after 25 years, and WOW things have changed a lot! I have been doing some research and I have landed on the Kronos XTR (I really wanted a roller because I love to build). But, I wanted to ask if any of you know if there is going to be an XTR 2023 (or a V3) coming out soon? I was thinking about buying. But then I realized that being a new year it is possible TC might release a new one. Or do you think they are done refreshing the XTR?
Thanks guys!
 
Welcome back! Things sure have changed since nicads and mechanical speed controllers!!
I haven't heard anything about the 23 xtr. Hopefully TC will have one soon.
I have a 21 xtr. While I can update everything to 22 specs, it is a pricey endeavor. It would cost at least $250 to do, and considering the purchase price of the 22 was maybe $10-20 more than the 21.. well you know.
Maybe another member has more info on a 23 release..
If you're itching, I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger, the 22 is still a great rig!!
 
samo975 said:
Hey all. I am just getting back into the RC car hobby after 25 years, and WOW things have changed a lot! I have been doing some research and I have landed on the Kronos XTR (I really wanted a roller because I love to build). But, I wanted to ask if any of you know if there is going to be an XTR 2023 (or a V3) coming out soon? I was thinking about buying. But then I realized that being a new year it is possible TC might release a new one. Or do you think they are done refreshing the XTR?
Thanks guys!
Click to expand...
I have the 2022 xtr. I love it. Beast mode. I'd suggest a motor with 2000 kv or less. Less is prob better. Like 1600 kv. Have fun
 
KnowAir said:
Welcome back! Things sure have changed since nicads and mechanical speed controllers!!
I haven't heard anything about the 23 xtr. Hopefully TC will have one soon.
I have a 21 xtr. While I can update everything to 22 specs, it is a pricey endeavor. It would cost at least $250 to do, and considering the purchase price of the 22 was maybe $10-20 more than the 21.. well you know.
Maybe another member has more info on a 23 release..
If you're itching, I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger, the 22 is still a great rig!!
Click to expand...
Those are all good points. Even if I bought it today I could (at an expense…) upgrade it tomorrow. While I am itching to buy it. I want to make sure I have all my drone stuff sold first. I don’t want to get split into too many hobbies at one time. That could be pricey.
And yes, good old NiCad batteries, and mechanical speed controllers. I can’t tell you how many of those things I burned up when I was a kid. If I held the throttle just right I could miss the scorched mark and still drive it for a while 😆.

Wallys Rc World said:
I have the 2022 xtr. I love it. Beast mode. I'd suggest a motor with 2000 kv or less. Less is prob better. Like 1600 kv. Have fun
Click to expand...
Good suggestion! However I have already been slowly accumulating the parts, and I have been buying up the OEM stuff. Everyone seems to have good things to say about TC electronics. So, I have the Kuron 2050kv motor and the Toros 185. I have not bought batteries yet though. Should I just stick to 4s?
 
I did say it would cost me around $250 to get my 21 up to 22 specs, but what is worth buying is relative to how I use it. The 21 xtr came with the same "normal" steel drive cups that the rtr's do. They just don't hold up in my experience, even to 4s. Luckily TC warranted those items for me. With the 22 swiss spring steel!!👌Would have been around $125 for all the swiss spring steel cups. The tower 2 tower brace runs around $75 or so, but I don't feel the need for it. Actually I think it gets in the way when working on it, but that's just my opinion.
I don't think there's much in the way of shortcomings in the 22 model. The steer and camber links are suspect, as well as the suspension arms, but they're relatively easy to replace and cheap enough. There's afew people who have adapted Arrma parts as a work around.
Start with 4s, see how goes. You can always pick up a 6s or two down the road if you desire more speed and power.
 
KnowAir said:
I did say it would cost me around $250 to get my 21 up to 22 specs, but what is worth buying is relative to how I use it. The 21 xtr came with the same "normal" steel drive cups that the rtr's do. They just don't hold up in my experience, even to 4s. Luckily TC warranted those items for me. With the 22 swiss spring steel!!👌Would have been around $125 for all the swiss spring steel cups. The tower 2 tower brace runs around $75 or so, but I don't feel the need for it. Actually I think it gets in the way when working on it, but that's just my opinion.
I don't think there's much in the way of shortcomings in the 22 model. The steer and camber links are suspect, as well as the suspension arms, but they're relatively easy to replace and cheap enough. There's afew people who have adapted Arrma parts as a work around.
Start with 4s, see how goes. You can always pick up a 6s or two down the road if you desire more speed and power.
Click to expand...
That's not opinion, that's fact, it definitely gets in the way! The only thing I have one on is my 22 xtr cause it came with it, I did back half my jambo but that's where all the flex was so what do ya do. Like KnowAir said, once you get passed the steering the 22 xtr is a pretty stout rig, not sure how much they could improve upon it within reason
 
AngrySection8 said:
That's not opinion, that's fact, it definitely gets in the way! The only thing I have one on is my 22 xtr cause it came with it, I did back half my jambo but that's where all the flex was so what do ya do. Like KnowAir said, once you get passed the steering the 22 xtr is a pretty stout rig, not sure how much they could improve upon it within reason
Click to expand...
That's a great idea! Just the back half!! 👍
With regard to suspension arms, I've never broken one on the xtr, but have read of folks who have. That's why I mentioned it.
The other item I upgraded but forgot to mention was the front hubs. I replaced those straight away when TC announced the free upgrade, although I never "popped" the originals. Likely due to only having ran it a couple times.
 
KnowAir said:
That's a great idea! Just the back half!! 👍
With regard to suspension arms, I've never broken one on the xtr, but have read of folks who have. That's why I mentioned it.
The other item I upgraded but forgot to mention was the front hubs. I replaced those straight away when TC announced the free upgrade, although I never "popped" the originals. Likely due to only having ran it a couple times.
Click to expand...
I felt the front was solid but from the center diff back it flexed, the chassis stiffener took that out but adding the rear half of the brace was peace of mind, plus it was only $25 to do the rear half. I've never broken an arm either although have popped the balls on my kronos xp and radix, it was cheap enough I upgraded the entire fleet to the hd hubs, they're very tight fitting on the radix running 100mm grps though!
 
I suspect Corally releases a new rig before spring. Corally stuf is on sale everywhere here in Europe and often that’s a sign something new is coming. Although I love my xtr 2022 I would wait a while to see if a new rig is coming indeed. (But maybe it’s all just my wishful thinking)


By the way: I broke both steering rods on my XTR quite easily (replaced them with the plastic ones) and a couple of weeks back I broke an A Arm in a not so fast crash into a solid object (must say it was a bit chilly that day). If a new rig comes I expect them to fix both problems (which I think are minor uses compared to replacing Diffs frequently)
 
samo975 said:
Those are all good points. Even if I bought it today I could (at an expense…) upgrade it tomorrow. While I am itching to buy it. I want to make sure I have all my drone stuff sold first. I don’t want to get split into too many hobbies at one time. That could be pricey.
And yes, good old NiCad batteries, and mechanical speed controllers. I can’t tell you how many of those things I burned up when I was a kid. If I held the throttle just right I could miss the scorched mark and still drive it for a while 😆.


Good suggestion! However I have already been slowly accumulating the parts, and I have been buying up the OEM stuff. Everyone seems to have good things to say about TC electronics. So, I have the Kuron 2050kv motor and the Toros 185. I have not bought batteries yet though. Should I just stick to 4s?
Click to expand...
Battery choice is up to you. I run mine on 6s. It's completely nuts. Stock pinion still. No need to change with torox esc and a 2050 kv 6s motor. My craziest rc I own
 
Wallys Rc World said:
Battery choice is up to you. I run mine on 6s. It's completely nuts. Stock pinion still. No need to change with torox esc and a 2050 kv 6s motor. My craziest rc I own
Click to expand...
I need to invest in a 6s brick or 2..2x3s is sketchy in a TC battery compartment. I wish they had room like the Arrma's do for battery options. Oh well.
 
Wallys Rc World said:
I cut the end of the battery tray out. Makes more room. Add piece of foam to cushion battery. Problem solved
Click to expand...
I need vertical extension so I can stack 2x3s until I get some bricks. 2x2s stacks well, 2x3s not so much. I did add a piece of aluminum angle at the front to keep the top battery from sliding forward but, it's only catching the top battery by about a quarter inch. Not really satisfied with it after my snow bash last weekend, was a narrow miss with the top battery almost getting ejected..
The Arrma tray has that top brace that slides up and down to accommodate, I may end up putting one of those in..have to drill some new holes in the chassis unfortunately though.
 
KnowAir said:
I need vertical extension so I can stack 2x3s until I get some bricks. 2x2s stacks well, 2x3s not so much. I did add a piece of aluminum angle at the front to keep the top battery from sliding forward but, it's only catching the top battery by about a quarter inch. Not really satisfied with it after my snow bash last weekend, was a narrow miss with the top battery almost getting ejected..
The Arrma tray has that top brace that slides up and down to accommodate, I may end up putting one of those in..have to drill some new holes in the chassis unfortunately though.
Click to expand...
Could try duck taping the batteries together for a temporary fix. But I agree. You need a brick 6s.
 
I reckon it's entirely possible that Corally could update the XTR. It's an awesome rig. The Corally Electronics are straight up crazy on 6S, but it needs cooling fans to avoid cooking the motor. Don't ask me how I found out! 🤣

I'm not hard on mine, but I do drive it fast and love the way it handles. It's great off road and easily hits >60mph on stock gearing and belted tyres.

IMG_20220512_201556.jpg

IMG_20220430_213257.jpg
 
Icoo
Horatio said:
I reckon it's entirely possible that Corally could update the XTR. It's an awesome rig. The Corally Electronics are straight up crazy on 6S, but it needs cooling fans to avoid cooking the motor. Don't ask me how I found out! 🤣

I'm not hard on mine, but I do drive it fast and love the way it handles. It's great off road and easily hits >60mph on stock gearing and belted tyres.

View attachment 3399
View attachment 3400
Click to expand...
I cooked a motor aswell..puff goes the dragon lol.
 
winterlong75 said:
I got the plastics set from Jenny's for my Sketer mostly to get those red washers...love those things!
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😂 I'll likely have to do something equally frivolous - it doesn't hurt keeping our trucks looking cool. Well..... not until the missus finds out!

I still chuckle at the little 'Slurpass' stickers on my fan covers. I think I need to get some bigger ones for my truck body.... 😜
 
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