Kagama Kagama Steering System: High forces and Potential Upgrades (Vitavon vs. ADU)

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Hello,
unfortunatelly Vitavon did not reply my requests and the seller told me that Vitavon "always delivers the same quality and an exchange will not help.
Even if it is against my priniciples, I decided to sand about 0.5mm per side of the 10.5mm wide upper bearings (the bearings of the lower arms are not the issues since they offer a 11.5mm housing.
It helped to raise the steering angle.
In general, I am quite dissappointed about the quality of the Vitavon product and I am not recommending it:
- reduced steering wheel angle
- ball bearings are hard to exchange since they have a really tight fit in the housing
- I still needed a 0.3mm shim, otherwise the tire wobbles Like Crafty and more than with the original wheel hub
- the ball bearings are not of a special quality, i will probably exchange them against a product of some known brand
- the O-rings that secure the thread are getting cutted when screwing them in
- Vitavon did not answer my requests and there is no obviously support (at least from.my experience)
This was definetly my last Vitavon product.



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Hello,
unfortunatelly Vitavon did not reply my requests and the seller told me that Vitavon "always delivers the same quality and an exchange will not help.
Even if it is against my priniciples, I decided to sand about 0.5mm per side of the 10.5mm wide upper bearings (the bearings of the lower arms are not the issues since they offer a 11.5mm housing.
It helped to raise the steering angle.
In general, I am quite dissappointed about the quality of the Vitavon product and I am not recommending it:
- reduced steering wheel angle
- ball bearings are hard to exchange since they have a really tight fit in the housing
- I still needed a 0.3mm shim, otherwise the tire wobbles Like Crafty and more than with the original wheel hub
- the ball bearings are not of a special quality, i will probably exchange them against a product of some known brand
- the O-rings that secure the thread are getting cutted when screwing them in
- Vitavon did not answer my requests and there is no obviously support (at least from.my experience)
This was definetly my last Vitavon product.



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Thanks for a great update and sorry to hear you didn't get the resolution to the problem you wanted.

The steering angles, whilst problematic, is at least remedied.

Alloy stuff with interference fit for bearings can make it far more challenging to remove them. Thankfully the bigger bearings should be burly enough to 'persuade' out - and need less frequent attention. The issue I suppose is knocking the middle of the race out and destroying the bearings each time you need to remove them. 🤞🤣

I've been using this firm for my bearings -

Bolton Engineering

Very efficient service and great prices. 👍

With the O-rings, did you lube them up prior to assembly? That helps stop them from tearing up usually.
 
Hello,
unfortunatelly Vitavon did not reply my requests and the seller told me that Vitavon "always delivers the same quality and an exchange will not help.
Even if it is against my priniciples, I decided to sand about 0.5mm per side of the 10.5mm wide upper bearings (the bearings of the lower arms are not the issues since they offer a 11.5mm housing.
It helped to raise the steering angle.
In general, I am quite dissappointed about the quality of the Vitavon product and I am not recommending it:
- reduced steering wheel angle
- ball bearings are hard to exchange since they have a really tight fit in the housing
- I still needed a 0.3mm shim, otherwise the tire wobbles Like Crafty and more than with the original wheel hub
- the ball bearings are not of a special quality, i will probably exchange them against a product of some known brand
- the O-rings that secure the thread are getting cutted when screwing them in
- Vitavon did not answer my requests and there is no obviously support (at least from.my experience)
This was definetly my last Vitavon product.



View attachment 6785

View attachment 6786

View attachment 6787
That sucks, might have to reconsider upgrading mine, might just go with corally hd ones play it safe, or maybe try the adu ones, popped ball joint on buggy the other day and had been thinking its hubs due replacement soon neway . If it’s any consolation you’re not the only one having fitting issues with new parts & had the grinder out. I’ve pulled my Kronos apart I don’t know how many times this last wk, new Ackermann and servo saver just wasn’t working, no steering whatsoever hitting diff case. I’ll save the the info for build thread if I can be arsed with writing it all up, half down to parts, half down me being an idiot. But don’t think I needed to go so heavy with grinder is all I’ll say. (Don’t work on your rc if your tired after 12hr nightshifts you’ll probably regret it 😅)

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With the O-rings, did you lube them up prior to assembly? That helps stop them from tearing up usually.
The issue is that the O-rings are lubed by the factory and they are already teared up by disassembling them for the installation. There ist, in my opinion, No chance to not tear them up. This i a picture after opening the screws for the first time. I think it is not the biggest issue since the O-rings primary target is to prevent the screws to turn instead of sealing it.

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Thank you for the Tips. I am going to try the Steering horns. The teeth of the current HRC Servo still seem to be good and fornthe wirst Case, there are also repair Kits available for about 20€.
Do younhave any experience regarding the Vitavon vs. ADU Aluminium parts?
ADU make excellent Kagama parts. I use their shock towers and shock standoffs.
High quality, but make sure you buy a few things at once as shipping from China is not free.
 
Quick Update/Summary: I still didn't receive an answer from Vitavon to any of my mails. I really can't recommend their wheel hubs. You will get awful (=no) product service and a limited function with a higher weight at a very high price.
 
Quick Update/Summary: I still didn't receive an answer from Vitavon to any of my mails. I really can't recommend their wheel hubs. You will get awful (=no) product service and a limited function with a higher weight at a very high price.
Thanks for the heads-up.👍 I'm just sorry you had to take one for the team.
 
Sorry to hear about the service issues, but I had a question about the max6 combo you are running. I've heard the 4990 motor is a tight fit. Did you need to modify anything to get it to fit or did it bolt up with no issues?
 
Hello,
i was printing some parts to have more space but the printed parts are not neccesary If you don't mind sanding and a different ESX Position than I use. You can find some pictures in this thread:

btw: i am planning to make s summary/overview about my 8S Kagama so all the relevant information ist bundled.

Best regards

Mario
Sorry to hear about the service issues, but I had a question about the max6 combo you are running. I've heard the 4990 motor is a tight fit. Did you need to modify anything to get it to fit or did it bolt up with no issues?
 
Related question, I keep breaking the front CVDs. The pins that hold the CVD together in the joint keeps falling out causing the CVD to break in two. Have had it happen a couple times now and it is a pricey part (and Jennys is usually out). Is there a viable upgrade for these? I found a CVD on Aliexpress that was for Kronos (GL-RC), but I have doubts that it is any better than the stock part.
 
Related question, I keep breaking the front CVDs. The pins that hold the CVD together in the joint keeps falling out causing the CVD to break in two. Have had it happen a couple times now and it is a pricey part (and Jennys is usually out). Is there a viable upgrade for these? I found a CVD on Aliexpress that was for Kronos (GL-RC), but I have doubts that it is any better than the stock part.
The stock driveshafts are pretty decent. I've used some heavy wheels on mine and caned the rig at high speed for extended periods.

If the pins are falling out, may I suggest putting some flats on the pins (using a needle file) so the grub screw has better purchase.

My pins have never fallen out, so perhaps they forgot the loctite on yours?

If the CVD is breaking in two, perhaps you are transmitting large amounts of torque through the joint when it is past the limits of the intended articulation. Have you set steering end points?

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The stock driveshafts are pretty decent. I've used some heavy wheels on mine and caned the rig at high speed for extended periods.

If the pins are falling out, may I suggest putting some flats on the pins (using a needle file) so the grub screw has better purchase.

My pins have never fallen out, so perhaps they forgot the loctite on yours?

If the CVD is breaking in two, perhaps you are transmitting large amounts of torque through the joint when it is past the limits of the intended articulation. Have you set steering end points?

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Thank you for the reply. The CVDs are breaking during relatively small jumps. My EPAs are fine I believe. I will try adding loctite to the pins. The pins do seem to loosen in the arm over time and then eventually fall out.
 
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