Kronos XTR Kagama Arms on the Kronos XTR...beefy!

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winterlong75

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Corally RC's
  1. Kronos XTR
  2. Sketer
Well I broke a front arm on the Kronos XTR during my first bash this spring (poor driving with big air and a bad landing). No biggie, I always have extras...but nope, I somehow did not have any spares. I haven't had much trouble with the stock Kronos arms but decided to upgrade to the Kagama ones. Holy smokes! Those Kagama arms are beefy (10 grams heavier per arm for the front) and with the aluminum rings I think it safe to say they will be more durable as well. A super simple swap. I think I'll be adding the Kagama arms to the rear as well. I haven't given them a shot yet, but will share observations later.

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I did the same for mine. As they're a monocoque design, you can use inserts on the arm.

This is nice, because not only are they burly, you can choose option carbon fibre stiffeners.

Not only that, but it's possible to use inserts both sides - top and bottom! 😎

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The Kagama arms are a nice upgrade - and Kudos to Corally for ensuring these new parts were backward compatible!

In my mind, the Kronos - which received very unnecessarily harsh reviews by influencers, is basically now the Kagama. Smart move by Corally. 😎
 
View attachment 8961
I did the same for mine. As they're a monocoque design, you can use inserts on the arm.

This is nice, because not only are they burly, you can choose option carbon fibre stiffeners.

Not only that, but it's possible to use inserts both sides - top and bottom! 😎

View attachment 8962

The Kagama arms are a nice upgrade - and Kudos to Corally for ensuring these new parts were backward compatible!

In my mind, the Kronos - which received very unnecessarily harsh reviews by influencers, is basically now the Kagama. Smart move by Corally. 😎
After watching many TC reviews I’m with you there seems to be a huge bias towards Aarma vehicles. Now recent reviews have been much better mainly just pinion gearing ( stock ) and the CV issues which TC has a fix for. I’m a against the grain kinda guy and TC reviews also said how hard they were why I went with the Kagama4 first the Redline and Aarma we have at our club always seem to have some breaks and we don’t even have jumps at this point. I’m very happy with my Kagama4 and Spark will definitely be getting another TC next
 
How long ate the Kagama upper arms and how wide are they at the hinge pin? I'm looking for uppers for my Asuga that allow for some caster adjustment.
 
How long ate the Kagama upper arms and how wide are they at the hinge pin? I'm looking for uppers for my Asuga that allow for some caster adjustment.
I'll measure them up......👍

26.0mm wide at the inner hinge pin.

116.6mm long to the end of the red washer/spacer thingy. (Measurement includes the alloy washer).
 
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Quick observation - if people use the caster spacers on the steering side of the arms (to reduce caster), they can swing around with the nipple thing pointing down and foul your ackerman plate - jamming the steering!!

This was happening on mine prior to any chassis modification. There isn't much wiggle room at all on the steering assembly. In fact, I relieved the edges of the diff housing - both sides - to allow full steering throw.

I'm pretty certain this affected all Shogun/Punisher/Kronos based rigs.
 
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Quick observation - if people use the caster spacers on the steering side of the arms (to reduce caster), they can swing around with the nipple thing pointing down and foul your ackerman plate - jamming the steering!!

This was happening on mine prior to any chassis modification. There isn't much wiggle room at all on the steering assembly. In fact, I relieved the edges of the diff housing - both sides - to allow full steering throw.

I'm pretty certain this affected all Shogun/Punisher/Kronos based rigs.
The Asuga XLR steering rack does not interfere with the diff housing but it may with the caster clips. Which is weird because it uses the same chassis as the Shogun and the same diff housing as other 1/8 6S Corally vehicles. The steering rack clears the diff by a few mm at the closest point so something is different. That said the steering links do bind with the balls on the steering hubs if the droop set too high but only when it reaches the limit for the angle of the ball vs the link. This would only ever happen if the vehicle was in the air with the suspension at maximum droop AND the steering very far left/right. I'm pretty sure this could be corrected by 6.8mm steering balls that have a slightly narrower neck and no hex socket "stem" on top (i.e. has a hex socket directly in the ball itself)
 
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