Kagama Kagama 6S - Feedback and upgrade ideas for future revisions (UPDATED WITH COMMUNITY FEEDBACK, LINKS AND FIXES)

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kuerva

kuerva

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UPDATED WITH COMMUNITY FEEDBACK, LINKS AND FIXES

Hi everyone,

I wanted to open this thread to comment on some improvements that, based on my experience and feedback community, I consider necessary for the Kagama 6S, hopefully someone at Team Corally takes note and we can see more polished versions in the future. I’m starting from the Limited Edition version, which is the one I own and the one that already includes several upgrades and updates compared to the other models. I would also like to hear your opinions and learn what other improvements or adjustments you think could be necessary, all contributions are welcome.

Proposed improvements and fixes by community forum:

1. Add front bumper that provides better protection against frontal impacts, like the Shiroi one, preventing the wheels from absorbing the hits, which increases wear and play in the steering block parts.
Fix: Buy the Shiroi front bumper

2. The down stop screws of the arms wear down the chassis.
Fix: buy these down stop screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...der_detail.order_detail_item.3.3138f19cV1y70f

3. Modify the body and wing design to prevent the wing from getting stuck inside the body after jumps, and also to avoid the tires rubbing against the body when balloon during backflips.
Fix by danl and Partydaz: Use the Asuga wing mount and install it inverted or 3D print custom TPU wing mount with LE or Asuga wing.

Old Asuga Wing mount: C-00180-894
Asuga rear wing: C-00180902
Kagama LE wing composite: C-001801358

Partydaz

Kagama Thread 'Kagama 6s wing mount and flexible wing'

Hello 👋,

Got sick of cable tieing my wing on because these stock wing mounts are crap :rolleyes:.

Seems TC updated the wing mount and made the wing super flexible on the kagama limited edition but I cannot seem to get the part in the uk and didn't want to pay postage for a cheap part from TC.

So after seeing how the Asuga has what looks like the updated wing mount as stock I got one of them and a Syncro 4 wing as they are really flexible. Its on a bit of a angle than stock but you can flip it and bring it closer in if you so wish.

Part numbers:
Wing mount: C-00180-894

Black wing...
  • Like

4. Better shocks out of the box, the shock are good, but they could be better, emulsion type, thicker stock oil (at least 1300CST) and stiffer springs to improve landing absorption, make the suspension more progressive and avoid having to buy the EXB shocks. It’s a basher designed for jumping!
Fix: Buy Arrma shocks V6 or EXB

kuerva

Kagama Thread 'Kagama 6S Shocks'

Hi, I’m very happy with my Kagama 6S LE, but I wanted to ask if there’s any way to stiffen the shocks more. The chassis always hits the ground massively, on dirt jumps it’s less noticeable, but when jumping more than 2–3 meters at skate parks, the impact of the chassis against the ground feels too strong. I checked the oil, put in 1000 CST, increased preload and ride height, but it still happens. My brother has a Sledge and I also have an Outcast 4S (800 CST), and the shocks absorbs the impact much better and more smoothly, with less rebound and a more progressive feel. I’m thinking about...

5. New battery tray and stronger straps, ideally 300–325mm.
Fix: Buy ADU racing battery tray and straps

6. Better differential gaskets and o-rings to prevent them from leaking oil.
Fix by BashingBrian: Gaskets leaking, tighten bolts in cover (replace gasket and coat with diff oil). Drivecup leaking, use AE green slime (o-ring grease) or equivalent when building the diff.

ridgehead44

Asuga Thread 'Leaky Diffs'

Good morning, all!

Do the Asuga/Kagama models have a known issue with leaky diffs? I went to change my center diff fluid the other day and the differential was bone dry. 🦴
I filled it with 500K, which should be a bit viscous to easily leak. But I do have thinner fluids in the front/rear. I'll check them this week.
Has anyone else experienced leakage? If so, do the all-metal upgrades generally solve this issue? Thanks in advance!

7. Replace the gearbox case screws used for maintenance with socket head screws, making it harder to strip the screw heads.
Fix: Buy M3x16mm and M3x10mm socket/cylindrical head screws.

8. Reduce wheels and steering play as much as possible.
Fix by Sandracer_NL: Usually there is a little bit of wobble. This can be due to a bit a play in the wheel hex (can be minimized by wheel hex shimming), play in the wheel hub (can be minimized by wheel hub shimming), play in the steering link can be minimized by adding a shim around the metal ball joint).
Sometimes also there can a minimal bit of play in the servo allowing a bit of wobble.
If you wobble the wheel by hand you should be able to see where there is play. A little bit of wobble is normal for a basher, but try and see if you can reduce the amount of wobble by adding shims of tightening screws/nuts.

Shims 13x16x0.1mm - 4x8x0.1mm - 3x7x0.1mm

Sandracer_NL

Post in thread 'Wobbly wheels'

Usually there is a little bit of wobble. This can be due to a bit a play in the wheel hex (can be minimized by wheel hex shimming), play in the wheel hub (can be minimized by wheel hub shimming), play in the steering link can be minimized by adding a shim around the metal ball joint).
Sometimes also there can a minimal bit of play in the servo allowing a bit of wobble.

If you wobble the wheel by hand you should be able to see where there is play. A little bit of wobble is normal for a basher, but try and see if you can reduce the amount of wobble by adding shims of tightening screws/nuts.
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9. A more reliable stock servo, something that can handle the weight and abuse of a 6S basher.
Fix: Buy another one (DSServo DS3235 Pro-180, 9iMod DSC35MG HV or Brushless version)

10. Vented tires instead of vented rims, hard tire sidewalls to improve car handling, enhance bump absorption and reduce excessive wobble.
Fix: Vented your tires, cover the holes of rims or buy Notorious 6S wheels (dBoots Backflip MT 6S) or Kraton 6S wheels (dBoots Copperhead 2)

11. Aluminium rear differential case.
Fix: Buy TC Aluminium rear differential case

12. A redesigned wheelie bar that is less exposed to impacts and without modifications.
Fix: By Team Corally

13. Stiffer servo saver spring.
Fix: Buy Lee Spring Servo Saver Spring
Lee Spring Germany - https://www.leespring.de/en/compression-springs?search=LC085J0M
Lee Spring Brooklyn - https://www.leespring.de/en/compression-springs?search=LC085J0M
Horatio

Kagama Thread 'Lee Spring Servo Saver Spring - What you need to know'

I've started this thread to make it easier to find all the info in one place.

It all started here with DaniC's post - how to adjust servo saver:
https://www.corallyforum.com/threads/easiest-way-to-adjust-servo-saver.459/

Back in the day, around 2022, Danny and myself measured up our springs and looked for spring manufacturers that can make bespoke springs.

Lee Spring were selected as the manufacturer of choice. Primarily because they make the right spring, but also because they have global reach.

Speccing a simple compression spring is more technical than people realise...
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14. The new flexible wing is too flexible, I broke the central flap just from the tension created when the wing gets stuck in the body. The design should be modified to make it more robust and thicker, using the same composite material or another one, competitor brands have much more durable wings.
Fix: By Team Corally and 3D print the wing mount in TPU.

15. Stronger 5mm hinge pins and redesign necessary parts.
Fix: By Team Corally

16. Kit versions for self‑assembly with better price and Limited Edition version fulltime.
Fix: By Team Corally

These are the improvements and feedback that the community considers necessary, ordered from most to least priority. Many of them can be fix by ourselves, spending extra money, but I think Team Corally cars are very good and better than the competitors brands in many aspects. However, they have small flaws and issues that prevent the overall product from feeling as high‑quality as it should, and that’s where the competitors brands stands out, they pay attention to the details.

I look forward to your comments and hope that the Team Corally staff listens to us and takes our feedback into account for future versions.

Cheers!
 
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I’ve also got the LE. I agree with your suggestions and to add to your list.

1. I think the lower control arms should have 5mm hinge pins like the Tekno MT48 2.0. I bend them constantly whereas on my shorter LCA vehicles like the Spark I do not.

2. Plastic rear camber links and front steering links are preferred.

3. Flexible wing mounts. I’ve made TPU ones that save the wing in crashes.

4. Better droop screw setup. My chassis is chowdered up where the screws contact the frame and they don’t really work now. Button heads to contact the frame is the way to go.

5. The metal diff case is unneeded in the front.

6. Slightly longer wheelbase or an option for a longer lower cg version.

7. Roller versions or kit versions.

8. Just a little more meat on the front and rear of the battery tray.

The good:

1. The chassis and bracing is great.

2. Rollers available for some models.

3. Shock towers are strong.

4. Diffs are strong

5. LE motor is good

6. Rear metal diff is great

7. Same size bearings throughout
 
Hi again, I’d like to hear the opinion of the forum veterans. Please share your thoughts, this is meant as constructive criticism to help improve the final quality. It would also be great if you could comment solutions to the known issues that we can fix ourselves. There’s a lot of info in the forum, but it’s very scattered, so even just posting the links where these topics are discussed would be really helpful.

Thanks!
 
All good suggestions but I think apart from steering servo upgrade the rest sould be left to the owners to upgrade as necessary.
These units are expensive as delivered in their stock form and tacking on all these upgrades would definitely blow out the initial purchase price.
Better to leave as is and allow new owners to upgrade and in the process learn how to maintain the vehicles in the process.

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20260212_205001.webp
 
Battery tray! for the love of what is holy fix the front of it make it better more beef in support or something, surprised no one has had a lipo face plant into the steering posts or worse :eek: .

Better battery straps that last longer than a few runs, they work fine on 4s lipos but the bigger 6s stuff put too much strain on them and they snap. again battery safety is not on Corallys list it seems :ROFLMAO: .

Rear diffs that don't leak without faffing with them :rolleyes:.

A basher kit for future releases would be lovely :love: , be nice to build something myself instead of these RTR models that I have to strip anyway to make sure its built ok.

That is all I can think of at the moment I am sure I will find something else to moan about :p.
 
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I agree with the battery trays being weak.
I have broken them in both of my Asugas and Muracos.
The small trays in the 1/8 buggies are holding up, but just barely.
The fact that an aftermarket manufacturer is offering adapter plates to mount Arrma battery trays, should be a sign for TC to improve the trays ASAP.
I had to make trays for the Asugas myself to fit 6s batteries on their sides, under the body.
And please start offering 325mm straps.
300's are too short, so why do they even offer 250's?
 
I've done 2 battery trays and an original wing mount, then I added the wheelie bar and I've done 2 of that type of wing mount.

ADU battery tray is fit and forget, definitely worth it.

Apart from that nothing has died that I wasn't expecting to considering the silly poop we get up to.
 
The ADU tray does look solid.
But here's 2 reasons why I don't buy them:
I still won't be able to run my big 6800mah 6s blocks in the Asugas.
I am not spending €45 per tray for 6 cars.
I'd rather fiddle some trays together myself and still spend less than the costs of one ADU tray.
 
The updated tray in the kagama is better. If you run 3 upgraded battery straps and a thin foam pad under the battery, it keep it put so that it does not try to go out the front. I’ve broken numerous front bumpers now, but my battery stays locked in.
 
I’ll update the first post with the ideas and upgrades you’ve mentioned. I’ll split them into improvements we can do ourselves and those that Team Corally should make. For now, I'll add:

- New battery tray
- Stronger straps, ideally 300–325 mm
- Kit versions of the cars for self‑assembly
- Aluminium rear differential case
- Wing and wing mount in TPU
- 5 mm hinge pins (this would require redesigning the suspension arm mounts, the arms, and probably a few more parts across the whole range, so I don’t think they’ll be able to do it)

Danl, regarding point 4 you have commented I’m not sure what you’re referring to. You also said the Kagama battery tray is upgraded but from what I’ve seen it’s the same or maybe I didn't understand you. I also added foam pads to absorb part of the battery impacts and I haven't broken it at the moment.

Thanks a lot for feedback and comments!
 
SirCrashALot said:
The ADU tray does look solid.
But here's 2 reasons why I don't buy them:
I still won't be able to run my big 6800mah 6s blocks in the Asugas.
I am not spending €45 per tray for 6 cars.
I'd rather fiddle some trays together myself and still spend less than the costs of one ADU tray.
Click to expand...
I can run 4s 10000mah in the kagamas, what are the dimensions of the 6s 6800s your running? Or is it just an asuga thing that makes them a tight fit.

20260129_202315.webp


20260129_202357.webp


20260129_202547.webp
 
kuerva said:
I’ll update the first post with the ideas and upgrades you’ve mentioned. I’ll split them into improvements we can do ourselves and those that Team Corally should make. For now, I'll add:

- New battery tray
- Stronger straps, ideally 300–325 mm
- Kit versions of the cars for self‑assembly
- Aluminium rear differential case
- Wing and wing mount in TPU
- 5 mm hinge pins (this would require redesigning the suspension arm mounts, the arms, and probably a few more parts across the whole range, so I don’t think they’ll be able to do it)

Danl, regarding point 4 you have commented I’m not sure what you’re referring to. You also said the Kagama battery tray is upgraded but from what I’ve seen it’s the same or maybe I didn't understand you. I also added foam pads to absorb part of the battery impacts and I haven't broken it at the moment.

Thanks a lot for feedback and comments!
Click to expand...
The aluminum diff case in the front of the LE model is unnecessary. So if they were to create an "XB" version of the Kagama, include it in the rear but not the front to save money.

The battery tray in the Spark XB6 is missing some of the small but helpful reinforcement that the updated tray in the Kagama has at the front and rear. Corally updated it. Adding just a couple mm more reinforcement in the same area would resolve the issue (on my theoretical XB Kagama). But then again so would gripper backed battery straps and the same thing on the base of the batter try to keep the battery from shifting on a front impact.

I don't think the wing and TPU can be made of TPU in a production environment. Making the part below out of a much more flexible material will take the load off the wing and the brace to the shock tower, reducing failures. Once I made mine out of TPU my failures went away.

Screenshot 2026-04-25 at 6.13.22 AM.webp



The rear of the Kagama has toe pills in the C and D blocks. Those pill can be designed to accommodate 5mm instead of 4mm tie rods, so its not a who'e redesign fortunately. The most costly part in a production environment is modifying the lower control arms for 5mm instead of 4mm. While at it, the LCA's should be made to be stronger. The LCA can be made wider from 70mm between the C and D blocks. A metal sleeve could be engineered into the LCA's to help spread the load across the arm and hinge pin. The arms could be made more flexible or flex added somewhere in the system (like softer toe pills).
 
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danl said:
The aluminum diff case in the front of the LE model is unnecessary. So if they were to create an "XB" version of the Kagama, include it in the rear but not the front to save money.

The battery tray in the Spark XB6 is missing some of the small but helpful reinforcement that the updated tray in the Kagama has at the front and rear. Corally updated it. Adding just a couple mm more reinforcement in the same area would resolve the issue (on my theoretical XB Kagama). But then again so would gripper backed battery straps and the same thing on the base of the batter try to keep the battery from shifting on a front impact.

I don't think the wing and TPU can be made of TPU in a production environment. Making the part below out of a much more flexible material will take the load off the wing and the brace to the shock tower, reducing failures. Once I made mine out of TPU my failures went away.

View attachment 12496


The rear of the Kagama has toe pills in the C and D blocks. Those pill can be designed to accommodate 5mm instead of 4mm tie rods, so its not a who'e redesign fortunately. The most costly part in a production environment is modifying the lower control arms for 5mm instead of 4mm. While at it, the LCA's should be made to be stronger. The LCA can be made wider from 70mm between the C and D blocks. A metal sleeve could be engineered into the LCA's to help spread the load across the arm and hinge pin. The arms could be made more flexible or flex added somewhere in the system (like softer toe pills).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the clarifications, I’ll keep them in mind when I update the first post. Regarding the battery tray, I’ve checked the spare parts for all 6S models and they all have the same battery tray as the Kagama 6S LE, same reference number. I suppose that means they’ve updated it on all models, not just on the Kagama 6S LE? So now I’m not sure if I should remove that upgrade or leave it there. The people who broke it and complained, I don’t know if they have the new version or not, I’m confused. In my case for now I haven’t broken mine.

I added the TPU wing as an improvement we can make ourselves, but you're right, just the mount would be enough. In production they’re not going to make it in TPU, but they could make it with a more flexible composite plastic.

1000110669.webp


In my case, the central flap of the wing broke, and it broke from the tension on the edges when the wing got stuck inside the body almost on every landing.

And, could you clarify this point you mentioned?

4. Better droop screw setup. My chassis is chowdered up where the screws contact the frame and they don’t really work now. Button heads to contact the frame is the way to go.

I don’t understand what you’re referring to.

Thanks.
 
I've updated the first post with community feedback, links and fixes.
 
kuerva said:
And, could you clarify this point you mentioned?

4. Better droop screw setup. My chassis is chowdered up where the screws contact the frame and they don’t really work now. Button heads to contact the frame is the way to go.

I don’t understand what you’re referring to.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Sure,

The wing on the chassis the droop set screw contacts eats away at the frame. Its difficult to take a picture on my LE but it has nearly worn through the frame. A better way is to use a button head type screw. Picture of an example button head, my spark chassis, and my LE chassis below.

Screenshot 2026-04-26 at 9.47.21 AM.webp
Screenshot 2026-04-26 at 9.45.04 AM.webp
Screenshot 2026-04-26 at 9.45.15 AM.webp



For your wing, I found the stock LE wing to break easilly. I went to an Asuga wing. I am not sure if it is different but it seems more durable to me.
 
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Okay, now I understand, the screw that adjusts the arm drop and contact with the chassis damages that part of the chassis. I'll add it and include the fix with a link to those screws. Thanks!

Respect the wing, I have another question. The Kagama LE version description says "new flexible rear wing", I'm not sure if it refers to the wing design is new or the plastic composity is new and more flexible than the Kagama XP model. I have compared technical specs of Kagama XP, LE and Asuga wings, and all three say PA composite. So, the material and flexibility of the wings are the same? only the design is new in the Kagama LE? If the plastic composite is the same in the Asuga and Kagama LE version, I'll buy the Asuga wing, which doesn't have a separate center flap, and I like it more.
Thanks!
 
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Thank you so much for the comments. I understand the car much better now, I wish I had known all this from the beginning. I hope this post helps others buying their first Team Corally. I already have everything I need to fix the minor issues on the way, and the EXB shocks have arrived me. I'm going to make the car even more amazing than it already is!.

Regarding the wing, from what I've seen, the Asuga wing is too big - 24.5cm, while the Kagama is 21cm. I think the Spark wing would fit much better, although I don't know if it will be stronger than the Kagama LE. I think the Spark wing size is 21.5cm, and it might not get stuck against the body. Can anyone confirm that the Spark wing (I think it's the same as the Kronos) measures 21.5cm?

If you know any other issues and fixes, please, write them in the comments. I will keep updating the first post.

Thanks!
 
This is what I did to fix my wing problem on the Kagama 6s...
Partydaz

Kagama Thread 'Kagama 6s wing mount and flexible wing'

Hello 👋,

Got sick of cable tieing my wing on because these stock wing mounts are crap :rolleyes:.

Seems TC updated the wing mount and made the wing super flexible on the kagama limited edition but I cannot seem to get the part in the uk and didn't want to pay postage for a cheap part from TC.

So after seeing how the Asuga has what looks like the updated wing mount as stock I got one of them and a Syncro 4 wing as they are really flexible. Its on a bit of a angle than stock but you can flip it and bring it closer in if you so wish.

Part numbers:
Wing mount: C-00180-894

Black wing...
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