Be careful - I have found the part numbers in the Kagama manual are wrong i.e. the CVD drive shaft Part number C-00180-360 does not fit the Kagama 4S which is listed in page 21 of the manual, it only fits the Skeeter. I just wasted my money upgrading to the GPM version of that part because the Team Corally CVDs fly apart after two or three batteries, they're different parts with the same part number. I have no idea how to maintain this car, who knows how many part numbers are wrong, it'll be an absolute nightmare. Not impressed with Team Corally, at all!
Kagama Kagama 4S Incorrect Part Numbers
- Thread starter Stattle
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Sandracer_NL
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Unfortunately incorrect manuals is no exception in RC. Arrma for example has them too.
Better look at TC’s website:
https://corally.com/en/catalog/car-...t-rtr-series/c-00293-kagama-4/spares-kagama-4
Better look at TC’s website:
https://corally.com/en/catalog/car-...t-rtr-series/c-00293-kagama-4/spares-kagama-4
- Thread starter
- #3
Then don't put a parts list in the manual if it does not conform to the product. I have a Kraton 6s EXB and that thing is a maintenance pig, from the center diff out the whole driveline has been replaced, in some areas multiple times, I have not had an incorrect part number from the manual so far.
Niekname
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I have found TC manuals surprisingly bad though. I'm currently doing a partial rebuild and measuring all the actual bolt lengths and writing them down in the manual. Lots of them are different from the manual. I actually broke one mounting hole on the front bulkhead because of that. The bolt that fastens the front braces above the ackerman to the bulkhead is listed shorter then what it actually is. So I snapped a piece of plastic of one of the holes because the bolt has less to bite on.
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- #5
Have you also found that the diagrams that illustrate servicing are not accurate i.e. center diff removal doesn't require motor mount removal in the diagram, but the geometry interferences require the motor and mount to be removed? Tightening the servo saver requires significant dissasembly, with servo and radio box removed it remains near impossible to tighten, you really need to pull the suspension arms out if you really want to get a grip on it. Skid plates have nyloc nut on the top of the chassis, also very difficult to get to for fast replacement of a wear item. The steering rack is too close to the front pinion diff cup and its chewing through the steering rack. The drive cups are all chewing out on the rear wheels because the dog bone T's are in phase combined with the angle on the dogbone at full extension, the centre diff drive shafts have so much angle that the drive cups are chewing out badly. All this on less than 10 batteries. I think the Kagama 4S will be the worst maintenance wise my fleet with regards to run time vs wrench time. Does drive nice though...
Niekname
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Yep, my 6s manual (and online the last time I checked) have those things aswell. On 6s lineup the center diff is easily removed tough. I really don't understand why they put that nut on the skid plate. If I'm servicing f/r diffs I usually let it hang off that while I take the hinge pin retainer off.
Horatio
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When it comes to part numbers, driveshaft dimensions, descriptions, handedness - TC are leaders in sending us up the garden path. 
Perhaps things will change.
For now though, we can forgive them because their rigs are great!
Although in fairness, errors aside, their manuals are quite good.
I say that having just assembled a Rovan symmetrical steering upgrade. No assembly instructions, guidance, part numbers, photos or anything. Quality = excellent. Instructions = non existent.
Perhaps things will change.
For now though, we can forgive them because their rigs are great!
Although in fairness, errors aside, their manuals are quite good.I say that having just assembled a Rovan symmetrical steering upgrade. No assembly instructions, guidance, part numbers, photos or anything. Quality = excellent. Instructions = non existent.
thgemini28
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thgemini28
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This is the correct number for the front cvd drive shaft on the Kagama 4s
Horatio
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Fair play to you for trying. But I think this chap has lost any interest in solutions and only seeks vitriol towards TC.
Most of the problems Stattle described stemmed from fitting CVDs that were too long to the rear of his rig.
Funnily enough, this did not help mitigate his existing problem of rear dogbones that were too long also.
This is the sort of problem that Corally will deal with under a warranty claim - but first you have to make the claim with Corally.
This had not been done. Instead, incorrect parts had been fitted. The issues led Stattle down a rabbit hole, where he concluded that the Kagama 4 has 'geometry issues' and resultant 'phasing driveshaft issues'.
The point lost on Stattle was that there isn't really a geometry design aspect that can mitigate driveshafts that are too long for the outputs and axles.
Because I didn't personally own a Kagama 4, apparently I did not qualify to give any credible advice. This included listing correct part numbers and upgraded hardened outputs etc.
Not a single thank you for bringing solutions to the table, just entitled, arrogant, combative, moaning Minnie type behaviour.
Don't be that guy. No one needs to be that guy.
