Python Is it a python, radix , spark or typhon

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Nelson.81

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What started out as a python over time I added the spring steel outdrives & most of the corally 7075 parts shock towers, chassis, diff mount ,servo saver, Ackerman, top deck, hinge pin holders. I then changed the bodyshell & fitted radix 4s body , tworks titanium centre driveshafts & adapted the lwb t2t brace to fit. Then onto its current refresh/makeover decided to add the spark arms , corally 7075 bulkheads & centre diff cover & tie the t2t brace into centre diff & add scorched hubs & titanium driveshafts. Waited until I was off work this wk yo tackle this but stripped the buggy down in work on my last nightshift to get ahead a little. Fitted the bulkheads and arms to the rear 1st all straight fwd enough. Then did the same at the front little more work involved you need to shave the inserts for the hinge pin holders flush with shock tower & shave the upper arm slightly to fit, no bushes now so no adjustment off caster. Then onto fitting the scorched hubs started with the front 1st all went on either no issues I test fitted the hubs with both the stock typhon Cvd/driveshaft & scorched titanium with the stock thickness driveshaft fits no issues but with the thicker driveshafts it can bind a little a certain angles so need to space out the pivot balls about a 1mm to avoid this before setting toe/camber
(I’ve still to set mine). Then onto the rear this is where the headache begins, to fit the scorched hubs to spark arms you need to shave them a little bit similar to what horatio did when fitting them to his Kronos, if you use the original python/radix/syncro/ksgama/punisher arms you wouldn’t need to. But the hubs fitted I thought it was going to plain sailing until I went to install the Dogbone & found it was coming up about 8-10mm short. The typhon & python/radix/spark dogbones nearly the same size 93/94mm 1mm difference so I thought the typhon must have shorter arms, so went and ordered a set of typhon arms thinking this would fix my issue, couple days later typhon arms arrive I line them up next to the spark arms & before I even fit them I know I’m up the creek without a paddle they near enough the same length as the spark arms maybe bring me in 1mm closer. A little bit Pissed off at the expensive pile of parts & situation I had created for myself I give it 🖕 and left it for a day to ponder my options. Day or so later fitted the typhon arm to see where it left me. Options find a Dogbone to fit maybe a custom hinge pin blocks move arms in slightly maybe try fit arrma outdrives to the diff. Searched about looking for longer dogbones found a cheap pair on AliExpress not sure what they for but at 101mm they on there way but I think this might be a tad to short with spark arms* also found a 103.5mm centre driveshaft going to try it also but because of sale at time of purchase was restricted to 1 per customer so if it fits I’m 3wheel drive 😂. But these just to see if fit and can make it work as fitting titanium centre & front driveshafts & not having them at the rear not the plan I’m hoping that what I actually need is 102mm and I can then order the method rc titanium driveshafts & get this thing complete. I’ve got a new spark body also to paint but it’s not a concern until everything else complete. But at the minute I stuck waiting on parts drive pins, tool to fit them & dogbones/driveshafts.

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The drive pin on dog bone to scorched hub 14.5mm so when the dog bones/driveshafts arrive these will need to be changed in hope I can make this work then hopefully order the method rc driveshafts be titanium all round that’s my plan 🤞

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It will be well worth the effort. 👍 The scorched parts are amazing. The standard driveshaft lengths work out short on the Kronos XTR when using the Scorched parts for Kraton, as the cups on the axle are deeper into the hub and bearing.

It will be totally doable with different dogbones though. 😎👌
 
A solution for the rear hubs 😁, now just gotta order and wait on more parts again.

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Driveshafts finally arrived, I think I can finally see the finish line 😅. They’re in and work only issue I have is the drive pins, arrma drive pins on hub side of driveshaft are 14.5mm & I could only find 14mm, I thought 0.5mm wouldn’t make much difference but 2 sets of 14mm drive pins I ordered both came in at 13.7mm tried them but causing bit of vibration/oscillation at hub so going to have to get longer pins I found online @17mm & cut them down. Then I just need to do alignment & the body then I think I can send it. I can’t find my camber gauge so going to have to just eyeball it until get another. I’ve a new body to paint but I’m going to try vinyl wrapping my old body also see how that turns out , never wrapped anything before 🤞.

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Titanium driveshafts arrived & Ive ground down some longer drive pins to fit. Took abit longer to get round to finishing this off but a new awd arrival been getting all the attention. Fionn got a sister meet Flo. Get these shafts fitted in , do alignment & get the wheels spinning. Used the typhon arms at the rear also which dials out a bit of toe in @ rear gain few mm in overall length. Still bodyshells to tackle too.

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Titanium driveshafts arrived & Ive ground down some longer drive pins to fit. Took abit longer to get round to finishing this off but a new awd arrival been getting all the attention. Fionn got a sister meet Flo. Get these shafts fitted in , do alignment & get the wheels spinning. Used the typhon arms at the rear also which dials out a bit of toe in @ rear gain few mm in overall length. Still bodyshells to tackle too.

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Nice one buddy! Great work - and love your new addition to the family! 🤩

Funnily enough, on our return to Wales, we have taken in this little fella:

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We found him with a severely broken leg and took him to the vets as a stray. We posted photos on local groups, but after 10 days, nobody came forward, despite wearing a collar. 🫤

Sadly, the leg was inoperable, so they amputated it. 🙏

Welcome to Larry:

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He loves RC cars - so he's definitely a keeper! 😻

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Watching a Losi Mini T on TV:

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So, I feel the need for a pet friendly RC for our garden.....😝
 
Nice one buddy! Great work - and love your new addition to the family! 🤩

Funnily enough, on our return to Wales, we have taken in this little fella:

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We found him with a severely broken leg and took him to the vets as a stray. We posted photos on local groups, but after 10 days, nobody came forward, despite wearing a collar. 🫤

Sadly, the leg was inoperable, so they amputated it. 🙏

Welcome to Larry:

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He loves RC cars - so he's definitely a keeper! 😻

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Watching a Losi Mini T on TV:

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So, I feel the need for a pet friendly RC for our garden.....😝
Nice one in saving the cat, sure he’ll love his new home. Might like chasing this little fella in his rc car 😂 wtf is the world coming too 🤣

 
Driveshafts in & spin good no vibrations like with shorter pins before. Do alignment later work for me in the morning maybe bring buggy to work do it there if get chance.

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It's a Typyradark!
I’m actually calling it project dark spark. I’m considering maybe turning it into a speed runner & was going to paint body similar to the dark star jet. But when looking for tinting film for doing windows came across that holographic forged carbon wrap & thought I’ll give that a go, it will still be dark & sparkle the idea. But i haven’t wrapped anything before & I’ve looked at it a few times and thought I’ll tackle that later 😅.
 
I thought I was done with all the nuts & bolts & upgrades on this but gone & ordered a few more bits 🤦🏻‍♂️. The only parts not upgraded where the front/rear diffs & diff mount insert they now on the way & a little something else for this & a future build. Still need to pull my finger out & do the body, I hate doing them I’ll get to it at some point 😅.

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I thought I was done with all the nuts & bolts & upgrades on this but gone & ordered a few more bits 🤦🏻‍♂️. The only parts not upgraded where the front/rear diffs & diff mount insert they now on the way & a little something else for this & a future build. Still need to pull my finger out & do the body, I hate doing them I’ll get to it at some point 😅.

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Trust me buddy - it will never end. 🤣👌

That's a good thing in your case. Your rigs are outstanding. 💪
 
I copy & pasted this from post I put on fb as couldn’t be ar$ed writing it again so if already seen it carry on lol

Erik van Ravenstein front/rear differential cases, diff mount insert & 42t spur installed. Done the front 1st must have had a premonition rear was going to cause issue, screw on hinge pin rounded 😣 but I won that battle this time. Diffs installed & shimmed, shimming corally diffs can be a pain having to disassemble to add them my tip is sacrificial shims, I put on a couple to begin with then cut them off until mesh set, ended up 1 front none in rear.

What you never hear anyone talk about is the mesh on the internal gears in the diffs. You often see corally diffs leak, why is this? I believe there is too much play on the outdrive cups & that play prevents the oring sealing & when oil gets thinner after use you start to see leaking. On my diffs I would add extra shims m6x12x0.1mm behind the pin that holds the Outdrive this seals the oring better so hopefully no leaks & reduces the Outdrive wobble which should help reduce risk of diff failure/damage. I always set this by adding shims until the pin felt tight but not too tight, usually additional 0.2mm shims each side at most, I never added shims to the point where the mesh on internal gears was to tight, until I came to build the EVR diff cases. I added just 0.1mm shims either side & when I put the diff together the mesh was too tight to point it wouldn’t turn, I initially thought I put it together wrong, backed screws off on diff & it spun freely, pulled diff apart removed shim on one side, still too tight, removed the other shim & boom perfect , diff spun freely. It shows the tolerances EVR is working to is much tighter, even my corally 7075 centre diff has 0.2mm shims one side one side 0.1mm on the other & no sign of mesh being too tight. Anyone can check the diffs on their corally to see what I mean you don’t need to remove them just give you outdrives a wiggle see how much play in them. Just my 10cents on diffs use that info how ever you see fit. But EVR diffs for the win. Geared 19t/42t with 4292 1780kv see what it does go from there.

It’s not often you see EVR comment on posts about his parts he doesn’t advertise what he does whatsoever so was nice to get his input & see that I wasn’t barking up the wrong tree in regards to adding additional shims in the diff which I suggested on here in previous posts about leaking diffs. 😅

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