Asuga How to adjust slack in rear wheels

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ian986

ian986

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Hi All,

I have seen a videos how to take slack out of the front wheels/hub, but can't see how to do the rear ? Anyone have any idea

Thanks
Ian
 
ian986 said:
Hi All,

I have seen a videos how to take slack out of the front wheels/hub, but can't see how to do the rear ? Anyone have any idea

Thanks
Ian
Click to expand...
The slack you're referring to at the front is usually to do with the pillow balls requiring a quick adjustment periodically, although upper arms can get sloppy as the car wears and require shims.

If you have slack at the rear, is it coming from the hub, the hub carrier, arm pivots or camber link?

More info required. 👍
 
Horatio said:
The slack you're referring to at the front is usually to do with the pillow balls requiring a quick adjustment periodically, although upper arms can get sloppy as the car wears and require shims.

If you have slack at the rear, is it coming from the hub, the hub carrier, arm pivots or camber link?

More info required. 👍
Click to expand...
Agree, more info needed, such as where the slop is, wheel, arm?
I also don't get how folks say shimming upper front arms removes play? From my experience, the play that is adversely affecting my handling is from the hole where the arm pivots on the hinge pin, they get oval'd out. No shimming is going to remedy that. Replacement of the arm is the only cure. Both Arrma and TC rigs could be better in this regard. I find TRX plastics last much longer typically.
 
KnowAir said:
Agree, more info needed, such as where the slop is, wheel, arm?
I also don't get how folks say shimming upper front arms removes play? From my experience, the play that is adversely affecting my handling is from the hole where the arm pivots on the hinge pin, they get oval'd out. No shimming is going to remedy that. Replacement of the arm is the only cure. Both Arrma and TC rigs could be better in this regard. I find TRX plastics last much longer typically.
Click to expand...
The slop on my XTR was because there was about 1mm of gap on the upper arms, allowing them to move fore/aft. This directly affects caster.....I had 'dynamic caster'. 😅

My XTR didn't have oval hinge pin holes.

I hope this helps show what I mean...

1000013204.png


Note also the threaded portion of the pin goes all the way through the nyloc nut.
 
Horatio said:
The slop on my XTR was because there was about 1mm of gap on the upper arms, allowing them to move fore/aft. This directly affects caster.....I had 'dynamic caster'. 😅

My XTR didn't have oval hinge pin holes.

I hope this helps show what I mean...

View attachment 4866

Note also the threaded portion of the pin goes all the way through the nyloc nut.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I never get that lucky. Mine are shimmed about as tight as they can be, but movement at the wheel is bad. Normal wear and tear I suppose.
 
Agreed, there's a certain amount of ovalisation in the upper arm pin hole. Back in the day™, I would have drilled this out to take a piece of hollow brass rod of suitable diameter and bonded it in place.
But then I remember it's a big heavy basher truck and precise steering isn't really that important to me.

#edit because I can't type😜
 
Jeffwazz said:
Agreed, there's a certain amount of ovalisation in the upper arm pin hole. Back in the day™, I would have drilled this out to take a piece of hollow brass rod of suitable diameter and bonded it in place.
But then I remember it's a big heavy basher truck and precise steering isn't really that important to me.

#edit because I can't type😜
Click to expand...
Off road it probably wouldn't be as much of an issue, but I guess it depends on how much play you can tolerate.

For speed runs on tarmac, having upgraded the servo saver spring and tyres, it seemed a shame to allow it get all loose, especially as it was just a matter of shimming.
 
Mine is quite bad, the oval'd out upper arms I mean. Really the most practical solution is to just buy new arms. I was hoping the Kagama would have a better design or materials, and it may, but I asked Aldo Loyal on YT and he suggested it seems to be the same materials as TC has used on previous models. I'll just buy new arms and move on. I do agree that as a basher, precision isn't as important as strength, just that my XTR front upper arms have gotten bad enough to start causing the suspension to actually bind. Can hear it pop when the front suspension unloads!!🤣🤣
 
Mine seems in the hubs not the arms i will do a video when i get the car put back together .

but thanks for all the replies
 
ian986 said:
Mine seems in the hubs not the arms i will do a video when i get the car put back together .

but thanks for all the replies
Click to expand...
When you say in the hub, do you mean the axle within it?

Lots of play could indicate a worn bearing/s. 👍
 
The arms don't seem to move would say it is the hubs or bearing but car is only a month old and was very loose when i got the Asuga.
 
There should be plastic shims fore and aft of the hubs, on the pivot pins, between the hub and arm. Upper links also. I feel like these rigs do generally have quite a bit of sloppiness in them. Both my Arrma's and TC's exhibit much play in the pivot areas. As basher rigs, not a big deal but, frustrating to me.
I have also noted alot of clearance between the steel stub axles and aluminum hub adapters. The aluminum hubs wear rather quickly on steel axles I find. Shimming (steel shims) can remedy to some effect, but never gets rid of it entirely.
 
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