Kagama Horatio's Kraton 6S EXB V6 Build

[KnowAir]

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Anyone tried these on their 6S rigs? They're literally half the price of Schumacher Spiral Truggy tyres.

They remind me of Proline Bowties, which I used to good effect on my Savage.

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These tyres are good on Astro or grass tracks. Same compound as the tyres I use for carpet racing indoors. But at £37 a pair.....

In 1/10th buggy, Yellow compound Cactus, Fusion and Splinter tyres are competitive for about 4 x 5 minute races.

Basically, I take a full new set of 2WD tyres and 4WD tyres with me every championship round. The worn tyres are used during the early qualifying rounds while the grip is still coming up.

The new ones go on for Q4 and are ready for the final.

I have a set of the Hobao truggy tires. They are decent, never tried them on 6s. I bought the tires and wheels separately and glued them up. I like the foams even though they’re open cell, they fill the tires out nicely. Tight fit stuffing them over the wheels.
My track has too much loose dirt for them to really hookup. Currently installed on my Kaiju EXT. 4s w/TRX combo out of an E Revo 2.0. I put a 45t spur in it, not sure what the pinion is, maybe 13t? It scoots faster than it should considering the HCG chassis and worn out shocks it’s a struggle to maintain control.. the Hobao wheels have 1/2 offset which works out well with the Kaiju narrow stance, it needs the offset wheels like the TRX rigs do.

 

[Horatio]

I have a set of the Hobao truggy tires. They are decent, never tried them on 6s. I bought the tires and wheels separately and glued them up. I like the foams even though they’re open cell, they fill the tires out nicely. Tight fit stuffing them over the wheels.
My track has too much loose dirt for them to really hookup. Currently installed on my Kaiju EXT. 4s w/TRX combo out of an E Revo 2.0. I put a 45t spur in it, not sure what the pinion is, maybe 13t? It scoots faster than it should considering the HCG chassis and worn out shocks it’s a struggle to maintain control.. the Hobao wheels have 1/2 offset which works out well with the Kaiju narrow stance, it needs the offset wheels like the TRX rigs do.

Well these have got to be worth a go then!

I spend most weekends gluing endless quantities of tyres, so a few more aren't going to hurt!

Fine for just blasting around on grass/mixed surface stuff.

Ditto for grippers, which have 1/2" offset if you choose the Kagama wheels.

Apparently Kronos (including XTR) wheels have 0" offset, so track width works out narrower and the inside edges of the tyres are more likely to rub the body. This is something I've noticed with the XTR, especially with full steering on bumpy grass.

Perhaps the Kagama wheels mounted with Grippers is the easy fix?

 

[Horatio]

You get a lot with Hobao parts. I have a Hyper SS nitro buggy and the stock tires are just as nice as my $$$ Kyosho mp10 stock tires. If the truggy tires are as nice, you will be pleased.

If arrma still uses set drop screws, you might want to consider Hobao droop screws. They are button head and 1/2 the price of anything else I’ve found. My poor Kagama LE 7075 chassis is tore up from the set screws Corally uses. HB85152 is the part number.

Hobao make some excellent rigs - definitely one of the most underrated brands.

Hobao Hyper 7 buggies were outstanding - easily on par with Mugen, Kyosho - but far cheaper.

It would be interesting to see how their tyres perform. Especially at that price!

 

[KnowAir]

Well these have got to be worth a go then!

I spend most weekends gluing endless quantities of tyres, so a few more aren't going to hurt!

Fine for just blasting around on grass/mixed surface stuff.

Ditto for grippers, which have 1/2" offset if you choose the Kagama wheels.

Apparently Kronos (including XTR) wheels have 0" offset, so track width works out narrower and the inside edges of the tyres are more likely to rub the body. This is something I've noticed with the XTR, especially with full steering on bumpy grass.

Perhaps the Kagama wheels mounted with Grippers is the easy fix?

I'm running zero offsets on my XTR currently, AKA I-Beams if memory serves me. I haven't noticed any body rub, but I may also have the steering endpoints dialed in a bit. I don't like maxing out the cvd angles, I only allow the wheels to turn till the point that the cvds start to bind while turning then back it off a smidge.

 

[Horatio]

I'm running zero offsets on my XTR currently, AKA I-Beams if memory serves me. I haven't noticed any body rub, but I may also have the steering endpoints dialed in a bit. I don't like maxing out the cvd angles, I only allow the wheels to turn till the point that the cvds start to bind while turning then back it off a smidge.

That's a very good idea. I tend to set the EPA til the steering arms are kissing the stops. Perhaps I should ease the strain on my CVD's.

That said, I'm quite frugal with my inputs. Many, small inputs. All my radio stuff have linear outputs - no expo, so I'm essentially going by memory muscle.

 

[KnowAir]

That's a very good idea. I tend to set the EPA til the steering arms are kissing the stops. Perhaps I should ease the strain on my CVD's.

That said, I'm quite frugal with my inputs. Many, small inputs. All my radio stuff have linear outputs - no expo, so I'm essentially going by memory muscle.

Was my method as well for a long time, then one day I noticed that my front (inner) wheel was “jumping” about (at full lock) while trying to diagnose a sound I was hearing while driving the truck. So I started setting my endpoints with my rigs on a stand and while applying light throttle input on 4wd rigs. I can’t say for sure that it matters but I would think it will help make the front cvd’s last a bit longer. Some rigs allow greater steering angles than others. If I can’t get the turning radius I’m looking for I “sactifice” the theory for performance.