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5555gBut can you guess how much heavier?
Closest to actual gets bragging rights!![]()
Yes, that it is! From what I can see so far, about 5.7% heavier, even in its modified state.Told you EXB would be heavier.!!
I’d still rather have an XTR or Kagama..![]()
Short answer, yes..Do you run a Max 6 in anything?
When a 4985 or 4990 motor, with double the power doesn't feel like an improvement over the stock motor, I think you should have mounted a bigger pinion.To me the 4990 doesn't really feel like much of a step up in power to a 42xx with higher kv motor hence me trying 1721 but they do run cooler though & probably more torque but it’s not a huge step up in power that you might expect.but I do tend make my rigs heavier with all upgrades so probably similar power/weight as stock really when all said & done but If can get away with running a smaller motor with higher kv I would. But with max6 you won’t be lacking power or worrying about esc temps whatever motor pair it with
4274 motors are rated around 3000 Watts, while the 4985 is 5700Watts.lol they ain’t double the power think that’s a slight exaggeration & I’ve already got smaller spur gear installed think I’m geared 46/18 atm & my tires would disagree with your opinion on going for a larger pinion given that I blew one off the rim yesterdaythat’s the 1st failure I’ve had with vp tires in couple years running them
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I like how you think. That's exactly what i was doing with Corally parts. Building a 1/8 short course truck. It was almost like they new what i was cooking and they beat me to it.I’m running an non sensored Max 6 in my Kronos atm, 4s with TC Kuron motor on AKA I-Beam truggy tires. It rips IMO. That Max 6 has been in my K6 w/4092(6s) and my Xmaxx on 8s w/VXL motor. A workhorse of an esc I think.
These days I have an XC C8 w/4092 in my Mojo running 6s. The XC seems great though it’s only been run a couple times so far.
I’m contemplating building an Arrma Shiroi currently. Take what’s good for diffs from my K6 and Mojo, throw some Typhon 6s suspension bits on the K6 chassis a Shiroi body.. IDK. The Mojo too big, K6 too heavy/ill handling.. I have an ET48 and the Kronos for track fun. Thinking I’d like a proper 1/8 SCT to run against my bro’s Maxx Slash on my track.
I reverted back to Mojo and K6.. but TBH, I miss the short armed Kraton. It looked whack w/Kraton body but it ran so well.I like how you think. That's exactly what i was doing with Corally parts. Building a 1/8 short course truck. It was almost like they new what i was cooking and they beat me to it.
Your other build, that Asuga clone on a Kraton chassis is nice too.
I saw the price of that body & kept scrolling nearly £200 shipped coming from the statesThe EXB has been driven - 1 6S Onyx pack. I intend to establish 0-60mph (assuming it hits 60 - it should).
Then it's going to the Parc Dewi Sant at some point - with the Velodrome.It's going to need to have a camera strapped to it.
Having blasted this around, off kerbs and hopping over grassy bits and pieces:
I'm impressed.
The motor seems to be running cool in our low 20's (°C) warmth and the truck is punchy.
It's definitely a different flavour to the XTR, with a less aggressive steering response, but I can dial that in to my preference over the coming weeks. It's coming with me to round 2 of the SWRCCC summer series - to play with between rounds.
At some point this afternoon I'll be shopping for suitable pit boxes for it to hold spare parts.
There's a rugged, purposeful quality about it and the Scorched parts elevate this rig in ways the photos don't convey.
It doesn't really drive heavy, despite the extra heft. What I mean by that is that it doesn't drive like a Baja or large scale RC car.
It still remains in that 1/8th scale sweet spot - heavy enough to carry enough momentum through longer grass, but light enough to have confidence with jumps.
The suspension is plush. The chassis layout in my opinion is superior to the Kronos. The steering system is superior too, in as much as the servo saver seems to work with authority, unlike the Corally ones which require Lee Spring (or equivalent) upgrade just to function.
Having taken the rig completely apart and back together 3 times already - the plastic feels reassuringly firm where screws are threading in.
Screw lengths are more consistent. Assemblies are intuitive.
The weird brown outs have stopped since I replaced the S665 servo with a proper one.
The Protek glitch buster is plugged into my RFS04F which I am sure offers just enough to keep my receiver alive during steering inputs.
Potentially, the 81BHMW can draw more current than the Firms's BEC can deal with, so I have to be sensible until I upgrade the ESC. On the plus side, it's quieter and more efficient than the S665, with an electronic hall sensor and brushless motor, all of which help it consume power more frugally.
What this rig needs now is a body.
This is what I keep seeing.....
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Cheers for the suggestion - it's a great idea.I da
I saw the price of that body & kept scrolling nearly £200 shipped coming from the statesMight work out cheaper if got a shell painted in uk try dubs custom works uk or baskerskins does body wraps for Kraton they’ve a couple nice options
https://www.dubscustomworks.uk/rc-car-gallery
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