Horatio
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Based on 2 seasons with the 22X-4 Elite, it was bittersweet that after 2 back to back championship wins in 4WD buggy, I should be in a situation where crucial parts were unavailable.
In particular - bulkheads.
The reason for this was the release of the 22X-4 2.0, which had revised arms, shocks, bulkheads, anti roll bar mounts. For the first time, the 22X-4 had specific Dirt and Astro Carpet editions
Reluctantly, I faced the prospect of owning yet another TLR - where parts in the UK is sketchy.
On the other hand, I had an excellent opportunity to make an Xray beating car and future proof it.
At this point, you're probably wondering what else would I need to do, besides build the new rig and just transfer the gubbins over? I get it. In an ideal world, it would be that simple.
However, 4WD popularity took a bit of a dive and my RC budget was ploughed into 2WD and Mini. After the Horizon Hobby purge of team drivers, hardly anyone in the UK drives them any more. Those that do drive TLR in the UK are more likely to drive 2WD buggy. Russell Williams.
Team Xtreme in Wales (operating out of L&L) are a bit of an unknown quantity, but they appear to be carrying some parts.
Essentially my 22X-4 Elite was dialled for our medium grip carpet and I really didn't want to mess with a winning formula.
However, the front gull-wing arms, lower CoG front geometry, along with 13mm shocks really got me thinking.
If 4WD does start back up this winter, I want something ready. Most of the membership think I'll be entering the old faithful again - but they'll be in for a bit of a surprise...
The business end! Nice. So if I bolted this onto my carbon chassis.......
And the rear end.....
And then did some jiggery-pokery on the middle bits - I could make this work. Right?
Ceramic bearings
Replacing these
With R1 Wurks Titanium (burnt blue).
And this absolute monstrosity
With this old faithful
We end with this,
Getting whittled down to this:
Which is only about 23g heavier than my Elite was - but with 13mm shocks.
All 18 bearings had to be de-greased and re-lubed with ceramic bearing oil. Strategic seals were removed. Only those necessary were retained.
Bi-metallic lightened centre driveline saves about 12g of rotating mass, along with the diff saving a whopping total of 36.3g of rotating mass.
This rig is only limited by me as the driver. How fast can I get it to go? Can I win a third series with it?
Will racing 4WD impede my precise lines, and momentum-carrying MD24?
Let's find out!
So why did I stick to a 6mm shorter chassis?
Because: I'm used to the balance of the buggy and I enjoy the super aggressive handling. Whilst adding 6mm longer wheelbase - all at the rear of the chassis - moves the weight further forwards, you have a heavier, less responsive car with more weight over the front wheels.
Mine is much lighter, lower CoG, lighter transmission, thus violently quicker off the mark. I don't necessarily need my next buggy to be easier to drive - I just want it to carry more of my 4.5t motor's speed and momentum through turns, without grip rolling.
The lighter and stiffer the car is, the more likely I will be able to achieve my objectives.
What will become of my left over gubbins? Watch this space....
In particular - bulkheads.
The reason for this was the release of the 22X-4 2.0, which had revised arms, shocks, bulkheads, anti roll bar mounts. For the first time, the 22X-4 had specific Dirt and Astro Carpet editions
Reluctantly, I faced the prospect of owning yet another TLR - where parts in the UK is sketchy.
On the other hand, I had an excellent opportunity to make an Xray beating car and future proof it.
At this point, you're probably wondering what else would I need to do, besides build the new rig and just transfer the gubbins over? I get it. In an ideal world, it would be that simple.
However, 4WD popularity took a bit of a dive and my RC budget was ploughed into 2WD and Mini. After the Horizon Hobby purge of team drivers, hardly anyone in the UK drives them any more. Those that do drive TLR in the UK are more likely to drive 2WD buggy. Russell Williams.
Team Xtreme in Wales (operating out of L&L) are a bit of an unknown quantity, but they appear to be carrying some parts.
Essentially my 22X-4 Elite was dialled for our medium grip carpet and I really didn't want to mess with a winning formula.
However, the front gull-wing arms, lower CoG front geometry, along with 13mm shocks really got me thinking.
If 4WD does start back up this winter, I want something ready. Most of the membership think I'll be entering the old faithful again - but they'll be in for a bit of a surprise...
The business end! Nice. So if I bolted this onto my carbon chassis.......
And the rear end.....
And then did some jiggery-pokery on the middle bits - I could make this work. Right?
Ceramic bearings
Replacing these
With R1 Wurks Titanium (burnt blue).
And this absolute monstrosity
With this old faithful
We end with this,
Getting whittled down to this:
Which is only about 23g heavier than my Elite was - but with 13mm shocks.
All 18 bearings had to be de-greased and re-lubed with ceramic bearing oil. Strategic seals were removed. Only those necessary were retained.
Bi-metallic lightened centre driveline saves about 12g of rotating mass, along with the diff saving a whopping total of 36.3g of rotating mass.
This rig is only limited by me as the driver. How fast can I get it to go? Can I win a third series with it?
Will racing 4WD impede my precise lines, and momentum-carrying MD24?
Let's find out!
So why did I stick to a 6mm shorter chassis?
Because: I'm used to the balance of the buggy and I enjoy the super aggressive handling. Whilst adding 6mm longer wheelbase - all at the rear of the chassis - moves the weight further forwards, you have a heavier, less responsive car with more weight over the front wheels.
Mine is much lighter, lower CoG, lighter transmission, thus violently quicker off the mark. I don't necessarily need my next buggy to be easier to drive - I just want it to carry more of my 4.5t motor's speed and momentum through turns, without grip rolling.
The lighter and stiffer the car is, the more likely I will be able to achieve my objectives.
What will become of my left over gubbins? Watch this space....
Last edited:
