Kronos First time setting the mesh???šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø

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Newkronosuser2709

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Just swapped out all diff fluids and put itā€™s all back together. Now I did the paper strip for the mesh, but how can I tell if itā€™s set right and what will go terribly wrong if itā€™s not properly set???
Trying to figure out how to Post videošŸ˜‚šŸ˜‚
 
Newkronosuser2709 said:
Just swapped out all diff fluids and put itā€™s all back together. Now I did the paper strip for the mesh, but how can I tell if itā€™s set right and what will go terribly wrong if itā€™s not properly set???
Trying to figure out how to Post videošŸ˜‚šŸ˜‚
Click to expand...
Post the video on YouTube then paste the link in your post.

Two extremes are stripping your spur and pinion or overheating and possibly cooking your motor and gears.

 
Newkronosuser2709 said:
Just swapped out all diff fluids and put itā€™s all back together. Now I did the paper strip for the mesh, but how can I tell if itā€™s set right and what will go terribly wrong if itā€™s not properly set???
Trying to figure out how to Post videošŸ˜‚šŸ˜‚
Click to expand...

After you do the paper trick, check with your finger. You should be able to feel a little bit of looseness and hear the pinion and gear slap against each other slightly. If you take your finger and rock the pinion or gear back and forth and it's so tight you can't get any clanking... it's too tight.
 
What they saidšŸ‘†Should be able to feel and hear a slight amount of free play between the gears, and hear a tik-tok when you move the spur back and forth with your finger..don't sweat it too much. Looser is better than tight as these parts generate some heat and the mesh gets tighter as you run it.
 
Rob66 said:
Post the video on YouTube then paste the link in your post.

Two extremes are stripping your spur and pinion or overheating and possibly cooking your motor and gears.

Click to expand...
KnowAir said:
What they saidšŸ‘†Should be able to feel and hear a slight amount of free play between the gears, and hear a tik-tok when you move the spur back and forth with your finger..don't sweat it too much. Looser is better than tight as these parts generate some heat and the mesh gets tighter as you run it.
Click to expand...
You are right canā€™t wait till I get home and charge up a pack. Iā€™m also going to add some mud guards, I had a rear dog bone tweak when a small rock got caught between the suspension arm and dog bone. Where I run my rc at home thereā€™s grass and dirt and some gravel. And good suggestions on that.??
 
Newkronosuser2709 said:
You are right canā€™t wait till I get home and charge up a pack. Iā€™m also going to add some mud guards, I had a rear dog bone tweak when a small rock got caught between the suspension arm and dog bone. Where I run my rc at home thereā€™s grass and dirt and some gravel. And good suggestions on that.??
Click to expand...
It's completely random for sure as to when/why a rock gets stuck. Usually does no real harm but yeah, they sell the rock/mud gaurds. Not sure what they cost, but I prefer to make my own.can be done with pretty much any plastic sheet. Clear polycarbonate works great because you can easily mark the holes,cut to size, drill, paint the backside and install, viola!!
 
All suggestions posted on setting gear mesh are spot on! Also, you will notice that the car will sound different while running it if you have the mesh too tight or too loose. I check the mesh fairly regularly since the motor can move around depending on the motor mount design and whether you taking massive jumps.
 
KnowAir said:
It's completely random for sure as to when/why a rock gets stuck. Usually does no real harm but yeah, they sell the rock/mud gaurds. Not sure what they cost, but I prefer to make my own.can be done with pretty much any plastic sheet. Clear polycarbonate works great because you can easily mark the holes,cut to size, drill, paint the backside and install, viola!!
Click to expand...
Great idea, time to get creative thanks
 
I believe I've been using .0625" lexan, I'd have to check for sure. But yeah, simple really, and most 1/8 scale rigs already have the holes in the arms for the mounting screws. I held out on them for the longest time thinking they were mainly for show..well, let's say I was wrong. They really take the hits from the stones and such so that the shock shafts and other parts are spared..as well as keeping the mud from caking up on everything.. add DIY, and it's a win for me!!:D(y)
 
KnowAir said:
I believe I've been using .0625" lexan, I'd have to check for sure. But yeah, simple really, and most 1/8 scale rigs already have the holes in the arms for the mounting screws. I held out on them for the longest time thinking they were mainly for show..well, let's say I was wrong. They really take the hits from the stones and such so that the shock shafts and other parts are spared..as well as keeping the mud from caking up on everything.. add DIY, and it's a win for me!!:D(y)
Click to expand...

Well today was another clear indication that I need to protect all the moving parts dog bones, drive shafts I just replaced the center drive shaft and today I had another rock stuck under the center drive shaft. Just lucky it didnā€™t tweak it. So Iā€™m looking for dust covers and mud guards. I will take your advice on the lexan for sure
 
oh yes, they surely do:
1C493429-EFA2-4472-B526-88552AB4A40D.jpeg
 
IMG_20211223_161605.jpg

I use POS dirt guards. They've been burly. Very durable. I now use something very similar to these on my Baja 5B SS. These guards protect both your shock shafts and drive shafts.

As for setting mesh - the paper trick is handy if you can't see the mesh properly.

You just need a 'tick' of play, not a great big 'clunk'. Too loose, and your gears will get pointy and then strip. Too tight and stuff will overheat quickly and rob you of power.
 
Personally the paper trick usually doesn't work for me. I usually end up doing it by eye and feel.
Also, set a tight mesh first and do a full circle of the diff or spur by hand to feel if there are tighter spots, if there is then mark the tightest spot and then set the mesh there.
 
DaniC said:
Personally the paper trick usually doesn't work for me. I usually end up doing it by eye and feel.
Also, set a tight mesh first and do a full circle of the diff or spur by hand to feel if there are tighter spots, if there is then mark the tightest spot and then set the mesh there.
Click to expand...
The paper trick works provided you cut a strip of paper the width of the spur and provided it's not too thick. However, it's a guide really - doing it by eye/feel is the best way once you've learnt what to look for.

Checking for tight spots is especially relevant for plastic spurs, which are not made to the same tolerances as steel ones.
 
Horatio said:
Checking for tight spots is especially relevant for plastic spurs, which are not made to the same tolerances as steel ones.
Click to expand...
But can also happen with steel ones. Coincidentally, about two weeks ago I put a 12T pinion on my XTR and I first set the mesh and didn't check for tight spots, the mesh felt good by hand, ran one pack and it sounded awful at higher speeds. Redid the mesh and found there was a tight spot.
 
DaniC said:
But can also happen with steel ones. Coincidentally, about two weeks ago I put a 12T pinion on my XTR and I first set the mesh and didn't check for tight spots, the mesh felt good by hand, ran one pack and it sounded awful at higher speeds. Redid the mesh and found there was a tight spot.
Click to expand...

I guess it doesn't take much to get a tight spot - but hopefully said steel spurs aren't out of round though? Being much heavier than plastic, this would cause some serious vibration and destroy bearings.

Machined gears are much more accurately made than injection moulded items.

All my rigs now use steel spurs (except for my Sandscorcher - but that doesn't count!).

The after market plastic spurs for the Baja were sometimes conical, so impossible to mesh right. Basically - not fit for purpose and becoming a lottery buying them, so I got steel ones. Much higher precision. No obvious tight spots observed, but it's good to check - just like you said.

The down side of steel spurs is that they require equally hard pinions and require lubrication, or else they wear, prematurely (along with the pinion). Not easy to do on open gears that can attract dirt/grit, but 'dry' (PTFE) spray lube is a good compromise.
 
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