Corally cooling fan for Asuga & Syncro 4

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jaime59

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Hello everyone,

I just bought Asuga & Syncro 4 as first serious RC (yes I cannot decide between both :LOL:) and want to install cooling fan on both from Corally.

But I have very newbie questions and I was not able to find answer in the forum or youtube :
1/ I plan to buy 1 of this model for each : https://corally.com/en/product/C-53...fan-tf-40-wbec-connector-40mm-color-black-red
=> Do I need additionnal things to attach it to the motor ? Because on the description, I don't see any screw or support to do that..

2/ Where do I have to connect the Bec connector on the car ?

Thanks a lot for the support !

PS : Just tried Asuga 4&6S, it's just a pure missile!!!!
 
Yes you need a fan mount, you can get them for very cheap or make something yourself pretty easily.

The fan plugs into the empty channel on the receiver. A stock corally reciever has 3 channels, two which are occupied by steering and throttle, and the third to power fans (or other extra's).

On a side note, I wouldn't recommend those fans from Corally. I'm pretty sure they are the same as rocket RC and other brands which you can get for half the price (on AliExpress but also others). Those are decent for the money.
 
jaime59 said:
Hello everyone,

I just bought Asuga & Syncro 4 as first serious RC (yes I cannot decide between both :LOL:) and want to install cooling fan on both from Corally.

But I have very newbie questions and I was not able to find answer in the forum or youtube :
1/ I plan to buy 1 of this model for each : https://corally.com/en/product/C-53...fan-tf-40-wbec-connector-40mm-color-black-red
=> Do I need additionnal things to attach it to the motor ? Because on the description, I don't see any screw or support to do that..

2/ Where do I have to connect the Bec connector on the car ?

Thanks a lot for the support !

PS : Just tried Asuga 4&6S, it's just a pure missile!!!!
Click to expand...
I just ordered these for my Spark

IMG_8307.webp
 
Thanks for these answers !
I just installed on my motor but the round dissipator is moving because it’s round as the motor is…
I guess it’s not good.
Do you have any tips to fix that ?

image.webp


image.webp
 
The idea is that it's a heatsink but the problem is they can't make good contact with the outside of the motor housing and end up trapping hot air. The clamp type are actually better. I used these and a 40mm fan.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806772118044.html

The m3 setscrew in the lower jaw is a bearing surface for the tension screw in the upper jaw so it doesn't grind on aluminum. Do not over tighten these the hinge will break if you chimp fist it. Just make it two finger tight and use threadlock, Also I recommend threadlocking the setscrews with the top protruding about 1mm.

I used a 40mm Surpass hobby fan and the CF faceplate

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802605170003.html
 
The motors for EDF Jets are smooth unlike the motors on the TC cars. Only brand I own currently but on heat sinks exactly they need direct contact like my Hot Rodded Jet Fan motor has

IMG_6456.webp
 
Yeah they'll work for smooth cased motors so long as the OD of the motor matches the ID of the heatsink. You might also consider some heatsink grease between the motor and fan. You could also use arctic silver but that would end up being expensive and basic white heatsink grease is cheap and appropriate for this application.

If the motor casing has grooves machined into it like the HW motors then a heatsink is actually doing more harm then good. The grooves increase the surface area and you'll get more heat dissipation by blowing air directly on the motor casing. The TC shroud is different it directs the air from the fan around the motor, unlike the heatsinks where the air blows on the heatsink instead.

I tried two 30mm fans but had to remove them and replace with a single 40mm, the 30mm fans were horribly loud and had a beat frequency that increased noise even further and also caused vibration. The Surpass Hobby 40mm fan is quiet and keeps the motor cool. My only complaint is that both leads are black but the connector follows the connection for servos even though it is a two position housing. Viewed from the side with the "latches" that retain the terminals and compared with the + and - on a servo connector viewed the same way the + and - match. I do recommend moving them into a 3 position servo connector housing though.

I'm thinking about using an RC controlled switch to turn the fan on and off when throttle is applied, there are some switches where you can plug it into a receiver connector and then control it with the signal pin on that connector and it will turn the power to whatever is connected to the lead on and off based on the PWM output. What would be really cool is adjusting the voltage to the fan based on current throttle so it's 5v when stopped and 8.4v at full throttle but I have not been able to find an RC controlled potentimeter.
 
Atomic Skull said:
Yeah they'll work for smooth cased motors so long as the OD of the motor matches the ID of the heatsink. You might also consider some heatsink grease between the motor and fan. You could also use arctic silver but that would end up being expensive and basic white heatsink grease is cheap and appropriate for this application.

If the motor casing has grooves machined into it like the HW motors then a heatsink is actually doing more harm then good. The grooves increase the surface area and you'll get more heat dissipation by blowing air directly on the motor casing. The TC shroud is different it directs the air from the fan around the motor, unlike the heatsinks where the air blows on the heatsink instead.

I tried two 30mm fans but had to remove them and replace with a single 40mm, the 30mm fans were horribly loud and had a beat frequency that increased noise even further and also caused vibration. The Surpass Hobby 40mm fan is quiet and keeps the motor cool. My only complaint is that both leads are black but the connector follows the connection for servos even though it is a two position housing. Viewed from the side with the "latches" that retain the terminals and compared with the + and - on a servo connector viewed the same way the + and - match. I do recommend moving them into a 3 position servo connector housing though.

I'm thinking about using an RC controlled switch to turn the fan on and off when throttle is applied, there are some switches where you can plug it into a receiver connector and then control it with the signal pin on that connector and it will turn the power to whatever is connected to the lead on and off based on the PWM output. What would be really cool is adjusting the voltage to the fan based on current throttle so it's 5v when stopped and 8.4v at full throttle but I have not been able to find an RC controlled potentimeter.
Click to expand...
That would be awesome, I’d imagine more efficient also. Here’s how mine ended up

image.webp
 
I just found out you can use a small brushed ESC as a light dimmer, should work for a fan too. Just need to add a filter cap across the output to smooth out the PWM.
 
You just made me think of something, for EDF jets we use LED afterburners. One side connects to the throttle side Y-cable needed then one to the burner. But as you increase throttle the burner gets brighter which in theory would work the same in a RC car. People make them but you can but your basic from Motion RC for less than $20
 
Atomic Skull said:
I just found out you can use a small brushed ESC as a light dimmer, should work for a fan too. Just need to add a filter cap across the output to smooth out the PWM.
Click to expand...
I happen to have a few spares the connectors even if they are different isn’t a big deal. I’ll break into my plane box soon send some pics but think this is totally doable
 
Atomic Skull said:
I just found out you can use a small brushed ESC as a light dimmer, should work for a fan too. Just need to add a filter cap across the output to smooth out the PWM.
Click to expand...
Ok this is a fancy burner so much larger than your basic one. This one I can program voltage output by throttle input, one side connects to your Receiver throttle port the other to factor connector you pulled out with one side connector connected to your balance pack port. They make 4-6s connectors no problem I do my own then the last port will go to the with cooling fan. So as you increase throttle the fan speed will increase

image.webp
 
shortround9191 said:
Ok this is a fancy burner so much larger than your basic one. This one I can program voltage output by throttle input, one side connects to your Receiver throttle port the other to factor connector you pulled out with one side connector connected to your balance pack port. They make 4-6s connectors no problem I do my own then the last port will go to the with cooling fan. So as you increase throttle the fan speed will increase
Click to expand...
You can do the same with the brushed ESC on the radio side with a mix. For non computer radios though you can't.

I found this on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...st_main.4.77fe1802YUUBfQ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

2A is overkill but all the 1A ones are 6v maximum.

On this ESC 1500us~500us is forward, 1500us~2500us is backwards, no throttle calibration. Some radio systems might not be able to reach the full pulse width range of the ESC, Radiomaster MT12 will have no problem though. You will almost certainly need to put a power filter cap on the output to prevent issues with powering a fan, motors don't care about unfiltered PWM voltage from a switching regulator but brushless fans do.
 
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For now I’m still stock radios, going to order the MT12 and tires I shared on another area for the Spark. I can do a layout with a basic set up to see how it all works. Here’s the tire wheels I’m looking at for the Spark

IMG_8331.webp
 
Atomic Skull said:
Yeah they'll work for smooth cased motors so long as the OD of the motor matches the ID of the heatsink. You might also consider some heatsink grease between the motor and fan. You could also use arctic silver but that would end up being expensive and basic white heatsink grease is cheap and appropriate for this application.

If the motor casing has grooves machined into it like the HW motors then a heatsink is actually doing more harm then good. The grooves increase the surface area and you'll get more heat dissipation by blowing air directly on the motor casing. The TC shroud is different it directs the air from the fan around the motor, unlike the heatsinks where the air blows on the heatsink instead.

I tried two 30mm fans but had to remove them and replace with a single 40mm, the 30mm fans were horribly loud and had a beat frequency that increased noise even further and also caused vibration. The Surpass Hobby 40mm fan is quiet and keeps the motor cool. My only complaint is that both leads are black but the connector follows the connection for servos even though it is a two position housing. Viewed from the side with the "latches" that retain the terminals and compared with the + and - on a servo connector viewed the same way the + and - match. I do recommend moving them into a 3 position servo connector housing though.

I'm thinking about using an RC controlled switch to turn the fan on and off when throttle is applied, there are some switches where you can plug it into a receiver connector and then control it with the signal pin on that connector and it will turn the power to whatever is connected to the lead on and off based on the PWM output. What would be really cool is adjusting the voltage to the fan based on current throttle so it's 5v when stopped and 8.4v at full throttle but I have not been able to find an RC controlled potentimeter.
Click to expand...
I think linking the fan to the throttle is a bad idea. I get what you are saying, but a stock 6s motor at full throttle generates approximately 3000 Watts. At least 300 of those are generating heat. How is a 3.7 Watts fan (7.4V x 0.5A) ever going to cool that motor? You need that cool air flow on the motor when it is coasting or resting.
 
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