Kronos Conversion from Dementor to Kronos ( shorter wheelbase to longer wheelbase)

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Kromeczek

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I need to change the chasis in my Dementor and I have an idea and few questions. I'd like to convert my Dementor into a truck with a longer wheelbase, like Kronos or Kronos XTR. I've read the parts lists for boht Dementor and Kronos and have a few more questions. Front and back apears to be same for both of this trucks. Main issue is longer chasis.

I made a list of the parts I need:

C-00180-328 - Chassis - Long - Truggy XP RTR - Aluminum - 1 pc
C-00180-715 - Drive Shaft - Center - Front - 85.5mm - Steel - 1 pc
C-00180-713 - Drive Shaft - Center - Rear - 170.5mm - Steel - 1 pc
C-00180-105-2 - 2 Shock Tower Brace - Body Mount - V2 - Rear - Composite - 2 pcs
C-00180-103-2 -Chassis Brace - V2 - Rear - Composite - 1 pc

I have a few questions:
Is there anything missing from this list that I need?
Does motor mount [V2] has the same spacing for screw holes as in the previous version [ I have V1]? Thats is my main concern. Currently running Motor Mount V1, 7075 Center dif bulkhead and metal center diff. Im assuming that center diff and bulkhead are compatible with Kronos chasis but im worried about motor mount.


Do i need new Center Front Drive Shaft? In manuals for dementor and kronos thare is 2 different drive shafts for center front, difference is like 1-2mm of lenght,
Do XTR Chasis and brace are worth extra price? Or plastic braces are enough ( currently running tower to tower center brace with extra tube for longer chasis)
Has anyone done this conversion and have any thoughts and tips?
 
Motor mount spacing is the same so your current one should be fine. As far as driveshaft lengths go your front should be fine, the difference in the few mm is because a lot of the v1's ran a 46t center spur so they didn't have the taller motor mount/spacer under the front diff mount that the 52t spur uses, with the taller setup you run a slightly longer shaft, so basically as long as what you have works now it'll work on the longer chassis, you basically just need the parts you've listed minus the front driveshaft, I may be forgetting something but I'm sure you checked good enough on the parts to convert
 
Bit of an update. All the needed parts finally arrived and I could finally finish building. I had a few problems. I couldn't fit new braces with the new floor and rear shock tower. Holes for screws in braces ( midlle one and 2 braces with body mounting) did not match with the holes in the floor and the holes in the shock tower. Holes ware like 2-3mm off, brand new chassis floor and braces, old shock tower but checked if it is straight and it was. I had to ask brother for help. He had to bend rear of the car and then finally braces fit together with the rest. Yeah but it was super weird, i changed rear braces in Dementor couple times and never run into something like this. If i look on the chasis from the side it looks little bend, like inverted U, just slightly. Is that normal on Kronos or its my bad or it was just unlucky tolerances on parts. Im thinking about taking out rear braces and grinding bit of plastic from shock tower side with grinder or sand paper. Overall I am happy with the conversion. Car was completely disassembled and I could replace the worn bearings, fixed steering problems, fixed wheel alignment, changed the oil in the shocks and diffs and cut mudflaps from plastic Dvd boxes ( plastic was nice, bendy, easy to cut and drill, bud strong enough to withstand rocks and mud form front wheels) but the tension in the floor worries me a bit. For body i had 2 spare dementor bodies, plane to modify one with sheet of plastic extension, probably again form dvd box. Finally , I would like to buy new body for long wheel base and paint it.
 
This is strange and no it's not normal. I've looked at all my v1 and v2 parts laying around and although the v2 parts are typically a little beefier (added plastic in areas) all the holes match. Towers are the same, chassis the same, braces are thicker in places but match both chassis, diff castings are slightly different but alignment is the same, scratching my head on why yours is off
 
I did not expected that also. Rear was attached to new chassis, screwed down 3 rear braces to shock tower and diff case, flipped car to screw braces from bottom and was mega surprised. It was like 3mm of mismatch. Checked entire back of the car, rear skid plate holes was perfectly aligned with holes in chassis, diffcase, shock tower, wheelie bar, spoiler, entire rear was ok but somehow couldn't fit braces. Then I screwed braces other way around, from botom first. And same happened, holes in braces did not aligned with holes in shock tower and rear diff case, also like 2-3 mm, this time too high. Trick for me was to put lot of pressure on rear, catch braces with screw from botom and rear at the same time, put second pair of screws and this time tight them down. Job for two people in my case. And rest of the car did not have any problems, holes in chassis ware perfectly aligned with holes in front brace, battery tray, center bulkhead and motor mount etc. As a result rear end is extremely stiff, with Dementor even with front to rear brace kit I could compress rear end with bare hands, it was like 2-3 mm of play and then braces started working and didn't allowed for more compression. This time rear end is extremely stiff, zero play, like a wrote, from side it looks like rear part of chassis is bit bend other way around.
 
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