Asuga Collecting ideas for my transformation

[XashBE]

Yeah, was browsing them as well, however they all need to built manually, i wanna avoid that (for now).
Seeing a lot of ProLine as well, looking fairly decent. Are they any good?

Also, considering your mention of another tower if shocks are shorter, it's hard to find anything for the Asuga. I really like the ADU Racing ones i mentioned above somewhere bit they also see to be just a replacement of the original ones, not adding anything new settings wise.

 

[Horatio]

Yeah, was browsing them as well, however they all need to built manually, i wanna avoid that (for now).
Seeing a lot of ProLine as well, looking fairly decent. Are they any good?

Also, considering your mention of another tower if shocks are shorter, it's hard to find anything for the Asuga. I really like the ADU Racing ones i mentioned above somewhere bit they also see to be just a replacement of the original ones, not adding anything new settings wise.

All the shocks are very easy to build as they are super well designed. Easy to bleed etc. Please don't let the assembly side of things put you off. I would be very sceptical about purchasing pre-assembled shocks if I was looking to upgrade RTR shocks.

The assembly was satisfying. I find it quite therapeutic to be honest.

 

[XashBE]

Yeah, i suppose i'll be able to do it.
So skip the time saving and do it proper, check

Crap, will need to buy oil as well in that case ^^

Then again, the option for going gunmetal&gold is easier to get when i build it myself. I pretty much decided i want a reservoir as well, just looks great. Will it help me with the driving i do? I doubt it but hey, street cred is to be considered as well!

 

[XashBE]

Okay, the hardest part of trying to find fitting shocks seems to be to actually find out the size they have ^^

About all pages i visit give me the parts but no dimensions whatsoever...

Can you direct me to some page that has the information i need? Ideally for all of the mentioned shocks? This way i can search there and then check if i find them in the EU somewhere.

Would also consider buying from aliexpress but i haven't found any decent ones there yet, feel free to recommend me some!

 

[CCB-MN]

Not for nothing, but I’ve had really good luck with aftermarket Arrma shocks that I’ve picked up from kit breakers. Especially for my bashers, this has been a huge savings for me. It may be worth looking into what 4-6S Arrma’s are similar in size to what you’re looking to do, just to see if there’s anything that would possibly work for you. I know a lot of their 6S shocks are very compatible. Just throwing it out there.

 

[XashBE]

Will check that. Purely looking for Corally / Asuga seems of no use, almost nothing to find.
I might even just change the springs and find some golden ones since the basic body color is pretty much gun metal already. Then trying to find a fitting screw for adjustment might be the easier way then trying to find a decent set in the colors i want to - especially in the EU.
And then some good looking spring cup and shock cap should be the icing.

After all, the basic shocks really aren't bad imho - though i have no comparison but they do feel pretty good from what i can tell.

 

[XashBE]

Well, gotta start somewhere, so i decided to start with something rather important: the servo!
Since i read rather good things about 9imod i ordered the 55kg servo from ali at the welcome price of just about 30€!

And then also some shock cups that will fit my final look better:

Colored springs aren't really worth it to buy on ali and i suppose i can get some for about the same price in EU as well, so i'll go for a set bought here.

A thing i'm having issues with finding are the shock collars:

Anyone got an idea where i could find some in gold or gun metal that would fit the original shocks?

Also shock cap and more importantly shock protectors in gold would be really nice to have. Cap itself not that important since you will mostly not see it anyway.

 

[XashBE]

Things are slowly arriving.
Next is my motor since the rotor blew up last session. Maybe i will get it changed on warranty but whatever, new one can't hurt.
Want to go bigger and cooler, leaving more reserves and having a bit more power if wanted.
4292 should fit, right? I'm eyeing this one:

Would that be suitable for 4S and 6S as well ? Don't really get the math on that issue yet.

Do i need the ESC as well or can i keep the stock one ? Then again, better have a spare one lying around and not need it than the other way around. Do i need/want a program card with that as well ?

Any good 40x40 fans you can recommend ?

 

[Horatio]

Things are slowly arriving.
Next is my motor since the rotor blew up last session. Maybe i will get it changed on warranty but whatever, new one can't hurt.
Want to go bigger and cooler, leaving more reserves and having a bit more power if wanted.
4292 should fit, right? I'm eyeing this one:
View attachment 5877


Would that be suitable for 4S and 6S as well ? Don't really get the math on that issue yet.

Do i need the ESC as well or can i keep the stock one ? Then again, better have a spare one lying around and not need it than the other way around. Do i need/want a program card with that as well ?

Any good 40x40 fans you can recommend ?

It's a drop fit for the Kronos and can be made to fit in newer Corally long wheel base rigs with some subtle trimming of the side guard.

I use this Surpass 4292 1780kv and it runs nice and cool - even on 6S. It's nice and 'torquey', too.

 

[XashBE]

It's a drop fit for the Kronos and can be made to fit in newer Corally long wheel base rigs with some subtle trimming of the side guard.

I use this Surpass 4292 1780kv and it runs nice and cool - even on 6S. It's nice and 'torquey', too.

Hm, guess i will order the combo pack though, can't hurt to have a spare ESC. Asuga is rather long, so i hope i can skip trimming but i will see and report back once it arrives.

Any recommendations on 40mm fans ?
Programming thingy needed or not?

 

[Horatio]

It's not as 'fast' as the Kuron 825, but can turn taller gears without getting as hot.

The only downside is that it's a bigger, heavier motor. This year I intend to find out if it has what it takes to beat the Kuron's 0-60mph time. My guess is that it won't, but that it will have more useable power for regular driving without having to worry about temps all the time.

Hm, guess i will order the combo pack though, can't hurt to have a spare ESC. Asuga is rather long, so i hope i can skip trimming but i will see and report back once it arrives.

Any recommendations on 40mm fans ?
Programming thingy needed or not?

Definitely use fans and a shroud if you run on grass or dirt.

Programming card is useful, unless you can somehow make sense of the myriad of beeps and lights.

 

[AngrySection8]

Hm, guess i will order the combo pack though, can't hurt to have a spare ESC. Asuga is rather long, so i hope i can skip trimming but i will see and report back once it arrives.

Any recommendations on 40mm fans ?
Programming thingy needed or not?

You have to trim the side guard on the asuga to fit the 4292, a 4282 is a drop in but due to the sharp angle of the side guards is what makes the 4292 not fit without cutting a chunk out

 

[XashBE]

Yeah okay, don't wanna do that. Going for a 4282 then.
What kv shoul i go for if i wanna mainly go 4S but still be able to go 6S? Or does a pinion solve this issue as well?

 

[AngrySection8]

Yeah okay, don't wanna do that. Going for a 4282 then.
What kv shoul i go for if i wanna mainly go 4S but still be able to go 6S? Or does a pinion solve this issue as well?

Personal preference I suppose, I'm running the 2150kv in my Jambo and love it although I'm only running that on 4s, 6s is starting to push the rpm limit and I've got the 1780kv on 6s in my kagama with no complaints, the only real difference between them is gonna be rpm at a given speed, they'll both make the same power/torque, the higher kv is just gonna seem a bit "snappier", but the lower kv is going to give you a bigger gearing window if heat is an issue

 

[XashBE]

No clue if heat will be an issue but to be sure i wanted to pick a bigger motor than the stock 4274. And since 4292 needs cutting, that's out of the question.
How will it compare to the stock Kuron 825, which is a 4274 2050kv?
Less rpm should mean less heat, right? Plus i'm adding a 40mm fan to it as well, i felt like going several lipos after each other would take it's toll sooner or later without having one.

 

[Horatio]

No clue if heat will be an issue but to be sure i wanted to pick a bigger motor than the stock 4274. And since 4292 needs cutting, that's out of the question.
How will it compare to the stock Kuron 825, which is a 4274 2050kv?
Less rpm should mean less heat, right? Plus i'm adding a 40mm fan to it as well, i felt like going several lipos after each other would take it's toll sooner or later without having one.

Less current draw = less heat. This is the trouble with low wind motors/high KV motors. There are so many variables - the user's own throttle demands, gearing, weight, driveline health, surface, drag, ambient temperature, cooling aids such as heatsinks and fans, motor bearing health, voltage of battery ie cell count etc etc.

Generally, the lower the cell count, the higher you can safely go with KV. But a motor which has high KV but is undersized for a particular rig size will simply burn out, risking the ESC as well I might add.

My feeling is that Corally pushed the envelope with their Kuron 825 for 6S use. 2050KV is pretty high and would explain why it's super fast on the Corally gearing. It also explains why people find the motor running very hot. It's so much fun though! Until it isn't.

A lower KV, bigger, higher watt motor will have less RPM, but generate more power ie RPM x Torque. The 4292 1780KV motor is rated as a 4200watt motor, which on paper is a ludicrous 5.6 hp Vs the Kuron 825 3000 watt at 4.0 hp.

I have had 64mph out of my 825, but only 62mph out of my 4292. This is likely because I am yet to optimise my gearing for this torqier motor. When I do, it will likely return higher top speeds but no doubt be just as hot as the Kuron 825!

For general bashing around, you should just get the 4292 and trim the plastic guard! To hell with it!

 

[XashBE]

For general bashing around, you should just get the 4292 and trim the plastic guard! To hell with it!

Nope! Just looks like crap imho. Not doing it! ^^

You happen to know any site, spread sheet where i can check pinions / motors / safe to use combos, specifically for Corally/Asuga?
Indeed so many variables, it's hard to keep track as a new person.

But to be on the safer side i already have the ADU fan holders in my basket. A 40mm fan as well, obviously ^^

Basically it comes down to 2 choices for me: 4282 with ~1780kv or 4282 with ~2150kv
Mainly driving 4S but having an option for 6S would be nice.
What pinions would be okay for each choice? I mean a pinion is changed in not even 5 minutes, so switching them if needed is certainly no hustle. Tire size will stay about the same as stock as i find the size rather appealing.

And why can the wrong choice of a pinion kill your stuff? This part i've never understood. In my head, the motor keeps applying the same force to pinion with teeth count Y and only the pinion afterwards turns faster/slower. Why would that affect the motor/ESC?

 

[Horatio]

Nope! Just looks like crap imho. Not doing it! ^^

You happen to know any site, spread sheet where i can check pinions / motors / safe to use combos, specifically for Corally/Asuga?
Indeed so many variables, it's hard to keep track as a new person.

But to be on the safer side i already have the ADU fan holders in my basket. A 40mm fan as well, obviously ^^

Basically it comes down to 2 choices for me: 4282 with ~1780kv or 4282 with ~2150kv
Mainly driving 4S but having an option for 6S would be nice.
What pinions would be okay for each choice? I mean a pinion is changed in not even 5 minutes, so switching them if needed is certainly no hustle. Tire size will stay about the same as stock as i find the size rather appealing.

And why can the wrong choice of a pinion kill your stuff? This part i've never understood. In my head, the motor keeps applying the same force to pinion with teeth count Y and only the pinion afterwards turns faster/slower. Why would that affect the motor/ESC?

The wrong choice of pinion can kill your motor precisely because it has a finite amount torque and ability to shed heat and the force acting against the pinion is higher or lower entirely dependent on the ratio you decide to use.

The ratio you use, as the pinion gets bigger, becomes increasingly high. The higher/taller the ratio, the harder it is to turn, but the faster it can potentially go if it's able to overcome that load. Before it turns anything - it draws the current from the ESC. If the gearing is inappropriately high, every time you operate the throttle, your motor draws more current than it would with appropriate gearing. The more current it draws, the hotter stuff gets. If it can't turn it - the motor stalls - and you get to sniff the magic smoke.

Imagine being on a 21 speed racing bike, putting it into 21st gear, then attempting to ride up the steepest hill. How hot would you get?

It's the same for our motors. Whether it be in our RC rigs or full size cars. The principle difference being - our rigs our fixed, single speed gears in most cases - so the gearing we choose has to give us the best combination of speed and acceleration.

 

[morrjr71]

Nope! Just looks like crap imho. Not doing it! ^^

You happen to know any site, spread sheet where i can check pinions / motors / safe to use combos, specifically for Corally/Asuga?
Indeed so many variables, it's hard to keep track as a new person.

But to be on the safer side i already have the ADU fan holders in my basket. A 40mm fan as well, obviously ^^

Basically it comes down to 2 choices for me: 4282 with ~1780kv or 4282 with ~2150kv
Mainly driving 4S but having an option for 6S would be nice.
What pinions would be okay for each choice? I mean a pinion is changed in not even 5 minutes, so switching them if needed is certainly no hustle. Tire size will stay about the same as stock as i find the size rather appealing.

And why can the wrong choice of a pinion kill your stuff? This part i've never understood. In my head, the motor keeps applying the same force to pinion with teeth count Y and only the pinion afterwards turns faster/slower. Why would that affect the motor/ESC?

The Corally Asuga manual has a chart with recommendations for pinion and spur combinations. The manual con be downloaded online if you don't have the printed copy.

 

[XashBE]

The Corally Asuga manual has a chart with recommendations for pinion and spur combinations. The manual con be downloaded online if you don't have the printed copy.

Got it lying around somewhere. I remember reading something about it and then skipping it because "i'll just drive stock and never touch that stuff"