Castle 1717 fitment in Asuga XLR

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I bet your overheating problems are caused by the closed buggy body. I had the same problem. There's no cool air coming in. The air under the body heats up quick. Fans are no use in that case, because all they have is the hot air from under the body to blow on the motor. For that reason, i cut out the windscreen and put window mesh in its place. Seeing that you have street tyres on it, you may benefit even more from the extra cooling than i do. I haven't overheated anything since i cut the extra hole, and i am using the Max6 G1. 160 amp. on 4s mostly since that's plenty fast for us.
 
SirCrashALot said:
I bet your overheating problems are caused by the closed buggy body. I had the same problem. There's no cool air coming in. The air under the body heats up quick. Fans are no use in that case, because all they have is the hot air from under the body to blow on the motor. For that reason, i cut out the windscreen and put window mesh in its place. Seeing that you have street tyres on it, you may benefit even more from the extra cooling than i do. I haven't overheated anything since i cut the extra hole, and i am using the Max6 G1. 160 amp. on 4s mostly since that's plenty fast for us.
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Still happened even when I ran it with the body off.
 
Atomic Skull said:
I decided that seeing as I'd have to cut the sidewall to fit the ESC I may as well cut the sidewall for the motor to allow larger pinions too.

Also DO NOT attempt to use the screw mounts on the ESC plate for the XC-ESC E6 / Mad Max Max7 it might seem like it will just fit while pushing out the sidewall a little but the center brace will crush the wires. I nicked the insulation on the power button lead just past where it exits the case this way. Thankfully I had some electronics grade silicone on hand and I entombed the wire bundle where it exits in a blob of it so I can pretend I was just adding a strain relief. It's actually much tougher than the PVC wire insulation (also, NEVER use common construction silicone for electronics it MUST be rated for use on PCBs because most RTV silicone formulations contain acetic acid and will corrode reactive metals)

I'm going to use this ESC for the time being but I have decided to go to an all Castle system and have ordered a Mamba Monster X 8S. If you order certain Castle products from Perfect Pass RC they give you a free pack of 5 sets of QS8 V2 connectors that are worth $35 so the ESC "technically" cost $180.

The XC ESC E6 seems like a great ESC so far though and I will use it in another project at some point. That's *if* you buy it direct from XC-ESC if you buy from Intigy or the Mad Max Max7 (which is the same thing rebranded) I think the price gets too close to a Mamba Monster X 8S to make sense anymore.

The wiring is a bit messy but it's temporary I just wanted to get this car going again after 2 weeks on the bench. I'm planing on putting the Castle in so no use cleaning everything up when it's getting pulled out later.

The overheating I was having with the Hobbywing Max 8 / 4278 is gone, temps were maxing out at the end of a pack at 125F for the ESC and 161F for the motor where the Max 6 combo was going into thermal shutdown from either the motor or ESC depending on which reached the limit first (I'm putting that into a Hobao Hyper GT which is a lighter car and hopefully it won't have problems there.) The Castle ESC will probably run the motor a little cooler because it intelligently switches to sensorless mode at higher RPM which is more efficient.

The acceleration is nuts with this setup way WAY more power than the Max 8 combo had AND it runs cooler, win-win.

EDIT: Also I am using a Surpass Hobby fan with the Castle fan shroud, the stock fan was ok but the Surpass Hobby fan moves more air.

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I’ll say a prayer for that power switch now 🙏
 
Nelson.81 said:
I’ll say a prayer for that power switch now 🙏
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The conductor was undamaged it just peeled the insulation on one side of the wire in a spot. The electronics silicone I used is actually much tougher than PVC wire insulation so it will be fine. I have also used it to repair nicked battery leads on lipo packs, the repairs are permanent and are as strong or stronger than the original silicone insulation. It bonds to silicone so all you need to do is put some inside the cut and replace any missing insulation and then let it set for 48 hours.
 
So I figured out why the Max 8 and 4278 were overheating, it was sensored mode. Disconnect the sensor wire and the overheating problem goes away. It is specifically the Hobbywing ESC that does this sensored mode on the Castle and XC E6 don't have this problem. Hobbywing replaced the original ESC under warranty and the replacement does it too so it's not a defective ESC and the XC E6 worked fine with the 4278 so it's not the motor. It's how Hobbywing does their sensored mode, I guess they don't change over to sensorless at high RPM like other ESCs do.
 
Final installation, I added a homemade 14000uf cap pack to help prevent BEC voltage sag that I made with three 4700uf 16v Nichicon caps and a Hansen Hobbies 0.1 servo strip PCB. The extra wire on the positive side of the battery connector is for the voltage sense line on the receiver so I can monitor pack voltage on the radio.

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