Asuga Build thread & collecting ideas for my transformation

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XashBE said:
Yeah i know. Tried a few of my mates but they didn't want to.
When i change my saver i will just pull the spring really hard to lengthen it a tiny bit. (And probably overdo it and buy a new one ^^)
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It's a shame I don't have any left. If I buy another Corally rig, I'll order another batch.

Those parts you ordered look really nice. What a shame they got the order wrong. Twice. 🫤
 
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Slowly getting there.
Rear diff got 200k.

Now also mid 200k and front 100k oil.
Then hoons front and also put new receiver with gyro and test everthing.

Will update later.
 
Yeah well... Turns out more isn't always better.

Had a damn hard time fitting the 10 channel receiver in the box.
- doesn't fit, too big
- made box bigger with the dremel. Fits ! Yay !
- crap , too high, cables don't fit...
- remove casing of receiver. Fits! Yay!
- crap, moves like crazy. Need to fixate it somehow.
.- secured it somehow after 10 attempts. Holds, fits and cables fit as well. Finally !

And no, i forgot to picture it... Anyway. Get the 6 channel receiver, enough anyway for the asuga.

Front diff tomorrow. Then i'm (almost) done - for now.

Waiting for TC to have the short shocks in stock.
 
XashBE said:
Yeah well... Turns out more isn't always better.

Had a damn hard time fitting the 10 channel receiver in the box.
- doesn't fit, too big
- made box bigger with the dremel. Fits ! Yay !
- crap , too high, cables don't fit...
- remove casing of receiver. Fits! Yay!
- crap, moves like crazy. Need to fixate it somehow.
.- secured it somehow after 10 attempts. Holds, fits and cables fit as well. Finally !

And no, i forgot to picture it... Anyway. Get the 6 channel receiver, enough anyway for the asuga.

Front diff tomorrow. Then i'm (almost) done - for now.

Waiting for TC to have the short shocks in stock.
Click to expand...
I agree, I rarely, if ever have a need for more than 6.
 
So after running a few packs on my silver hoons and lowered body (due to droop adjusting) i have two issues :

- Still too much grip on tarmac
&
- Wheel kind of "bounce" in corners.

Point 2 is probably solvable with shock settings, point 1 though🤔

Help appreciated.

I do have to say, gyro is pretty neat for having long perfect drifts. Still, need less grip! (probably the only person ever saying this)
 
XashBE said:
So after running a few packs on my silver hoons and lowered body (due to droop adjusting) i have two issues :

- Still too much grip on tarmac
&
- Wheel kind of "bounce" in corners.

Point 2 is probably solvable with shock settings, point 1 though🤔

Help appreciated.

I do have to say, gyro is pretty neat for having long perfect drifts. Still, need less grip! (probably the only person ever saying this)
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The gyro is cheating though.....😜😝

Regards the 'too much traction' with the hoons on tarmac - try laying your shocks down. Furthest point out on the arm, closest the wheel - lowest point and innermost point on the shock tower. Obviously, adjust your preload to determine correct ride height. But this should stop the grip roll and make the truck nicer/easier to drive. 👍
 
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Horatio said:
The gyro is cheating though.....😜😝

Regards the 'too much traction' with the hoons on tarmac - try laying your shocks down. Furthest point out on the arm, closest the wheel - lowest point and innermost point on the shock tower. Obviously, adjust your preload to determine correct ride height. But this should stop the grip roll and make the truck nicer/easier to drive. 👍
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Wull check that later. Thanks
 
XashBE said:
So after running a few packs on my silver hoons and lowered body (due to droop adjusting) i have two issues :

- Still too much grip on tarmac
&
- Wheel kind of "bounce" in corners.

Point 2 is probably solvable with shock settings, point 1 though🤔

Help appreciated.

I do have to say, gyro is pretty neat for having long perfect drifts. Still, need less grip! (probably the only person ever saying this)
Click to expand...
You could always check out vipaz tires if you're looking to drift, solid rubber, they slide good but still offer mediocre traction, I've got a set and they're holding up to 8s although I've blown them off the wheels a few times on 12s, kinda spendy but they'd probably last you forever on the asuga
 
AngrySection8 said:
You could always check out vipaz tires if you're looking to drift, solid rubber, they slide good but still offer mediocre traction, I've got a set and they're holding up to 8s although I've blown them off the wheels a few times on 12s, kinda spendy but they'd probably last you forever on the asuga
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169 €!!!!
Doesn't matter if for 1,2 or 4,wasn't even mentioned. Nope. Not doing that 🤬🤣
 
GRPs are well respected for speeds of upto around 100mph by all accounts. They make these:

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S4 Revos in a medium compound. These will have a good amount of grip, so not ideal for drifting.

You might try their GT racing tyres, but in the hardest compound. You can choose hard rims as well if you run in high ambient temperatures.

I run these Sweep belted road crushers on my Sworkz Truggy for speed runs:

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These have been very good, reasonably light and are quite well balanced out of the bag. Better than any others. They still need balancing though, but used very little weight.

They offer a medium level of traction that builds as they warm up, but they are progressive as they reach the limit, meaning they are manageable to control.

A bonus is that they are less prone to flat spotting, which can be an issue with my Jetkos road tyres. I can't leave weight on them with my XTR.

I used to run some road tyres with my old Mugen MBX4 RR and I'm fairly certain they were Italian. GRP's seem very similar to them - my guess is that they are the tyres I used to run back in the late 90's for road use with my WS7 engine, between races. 👍
 
Wanted to get myself the big GRPs but they come with a square connector and it's kinda hard to find an adapter 18mm square to 17mm hex. At least in the EU.
 
So after little bit more than a year I am back, had a lot on my mind and a lot to do.

Still driving the same car and although it's nice to drive with slicks i am shifting to the original purpose of the car again but I Encounter a little problem with my front Drive Cup always grinding against the metal above it, thus getting too hot losing the screw and then risking of losing the drivetrain.
Screwed everything apart but didn't find the reason, replaced cup but now, half a pack later same issue.
Any ideas as to why this is happening?

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Made some new photos.

This is a new cup, half a pack.
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That's the part it scrubs against. Not new.
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No idea why though. It shouldn't.

When assembled there's just enough room. When driving they obviously touch.
 
XashBE said:
So after little bit more than a year I am back, had a lot on my mind and a lot to do.

Still driving the same car and although it's nice to drive with slicks i am shifting to the original purpose of the car again but I Encounter a little problem with my front Drive Cup always grinding against the metal above it, thus getting too hot losing the screw and then risking of losing the drivetrain.
Screwed everything apart but didn't find the reason, replaced cup but now, half a pack later same issue.
Any ideas as to why this is happening?

View attachment 10011
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I had similar issue before with the Ackermann hitting the diff case but not the outdrive cup. I ground around the diff case but your hitting the outdrive cup which is even lower. In the picture Your chassis looks like it has very little kick up at the front maybe that causing your issue 🤷
 
Hm, worth a try to bend it up a little. Will give feedback after the weekend if that helped.
 
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