BashingBrian's Shiroi..

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BashingBrian

Resident hoarder of RC's
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💂🏼‍♀️ London 💂🏼‍♀️
Corally RC's
  1. Kronos XTR
  2. Radix
  3. Shiroi
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No plans to upgrade this, no mods, box stock roller, fitted 14T pinion will try on 4s and 6s see how we go..

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The wheels are a bit of a weird size 120mm'ish, bigger than buggy wheels but smaller than both Mojave's 4 and 6s
I'm going to try it with some larger buggy wheels I have..

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The Shiroi tyres are very soft to the touch compared to the Mojave's, which are quite hard.
Time will tell how the Shiroi's last, so far though after just one run I'm quite happy with them.

Mojave 4s, Mojave 6s and Shiroi

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Thought I'd just go over the electronics I fitted, also a quick review with my opinion of the truck after its maiden run..
Servo I used, probably AGF's best kept secret, very cheap, programable and HV.
This servo works perfectly well in this truck, plenty of steering power, of note the Corally servo saver could do with being cranked up a few turns to make it stiffer 👍

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Used the cheapest 2 channel Futaba rx I had lying around, don't need fans just steering and esc so works perfectly paired with my 7PXR..😎

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I've done this to all my Corally's, add a third battery strap, as we all know they don't make the greatest battery tray so the extra strap helps, other than being fiddlely to fit the battery in the car I've had no issues with this tray over two years, also remove the stock nuts in the battery tray and fit nyloc nuts that don't come undone by themselves 👍

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Fully stock Corally electronics (best RTR electronics out there), Torax 185 and Kuron 825, I like the little switch holder on the back of the chassis, there are some neat little touches on this truck, (Arrma should be worried, Corally are going to be leading the game soon in 1/8 believe me :cool:)

The tyres are really soft to the touch, the compound and the actual foam inside, yet even on 6s they hardly balloon all that much.!!
Size wise it's longer than the OG Arrma Senton 6s but about the same width, which I think makes it handle slightly better, it jumps quite well too, well, as good as a SCT can jump..:ROFLMAO: (we'll get to jumping later)

1st run was with the stock 52T spur and I fitted a 14T pinion, the truck comes with a 13T and 16T in the box. I went 14T because I wanted to try it on both 4 and 6s, can't decide if I'm going to keep it a 6s truck or go 4s :unsure: on 4s it was fast but not 6s fast, I will experiment with the gearing before I decide one way or the other. `
On a side note my Radix is 46T spur and 17T pinion and is practically undriveable on 6s, it's just way too fast, 4s is just perfect, so that maybe what the Shiroi ends up, although I'm still swaying towards 6s as it's heavier than a Radix...

It's still got that new RC smell 🥴

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Some size shots vs Mojave 6s

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Here's my quick review after maiden voyage..

Everything was going really well, the speed was good on 4s but not great, so it was time for 6s, let the carnage begin.!! 🤪
It's fast with 14T but will no doubt be Corally crazy fast if you fit the 16T on 6s..!!
Plenty of jumps and speed runs on short grass and loose gravely surface. Now, where I've been bashing recently they have dumped around what I can only imagine is 10 or more tons of tree bark.

The fatal jump was here, approached at full speed one final time and it all went wrong (1/8 buggy in pic for scale) it must have sailed through the air about 20-25 feet high and a very long distance, all the time in slow motion, as it was rotating no matter how I tried I couldn't correct it, by this time it was now completely upside down and about to take a full on roof landing from around 20 feet in the air.!!
To be honest on impact I shut my eyes and was expecting the truck to be a total mess, the noise was loud and cringy worthy..

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To my disbelief, this is the only damage, a 1/2 inch long split in the lexan body and somehow a tether got cut off..🤪
Once I got home I checked the truck over and there wasn't any other damage, Arrma CORALLY tough..!!

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I'm still amazed that the crash didn't kill the truck completely..!! I just don't think many things would have survived that roof landing onto asphalt.!! My run up was off, we normally land on the bark, but this time I didn't..:ROFLMAO:

To summarise this mini review of the MIGHTY Shiroi, I'd have to say this is going to be one of my favourites I think, something you can just beat on without worry.
It doesn't need a huge power system with a max6 or MMX to be fun, Corally gear their trucks differently to Arrma's so you can get good speed without having to resort to overly heavy esc/motor combos.

I was dubious about the rear bumper being as it's so long and gangly, but it took a real beating with some hard reverse lawn dart landings and survive just fine..👍

Other things of note are the motor mount hits the side guard if you use the 16T pinion and I don't think you could go any bigger without doing some cutting and shutting :rolleyes:
Being based on the Kagama I don't think you'll have any durability issues, and the fact it uses Spark arms is even better.!!
I don't think this truck is going to need any extra upgrades or alloy parts to make it super tough, as it just comes out the box like this.

It does suffer the usual SCT issues of dirt ingress... :ROFLMAO: :(
I think I'll be making some sort of front dirt guards like I did with my Mojave

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Anyway, enough of me waffling on, my advice go get yourself a Shiroi ASAP you won't be sorry..!!
For the cost I believe it's one of the best bang for your buck RTR's you can buy.

Thanks for reading :love:


P.S. I'm even thinking of getting a second one and making a street slayer version 😈🤘:devilish:
 
On to the custom mods..

Rear arm dirt guards, keep some of the crap out the suspension and driveshafts..:ROFLMAO:
Make these out of 1.5mm Kydex easy to cut and you can heat and bend it to whatever shape you want..(y)
They screw into the tops of the arms, the holes are already in the arms.

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Didn't need to do this, but just had the parts lying around and I tend to carbon brace everything I have..:cool:
Can't remember the exact dimensions of the tubing but it's the same size as the original alloy tube

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More soon..

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Here are some various wheel choices I'll try...

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Did a small amount of drywall tape and shoo goo in various places, the rear part took the most damage (normal place for SCT's) just though I'd toughen it up a bit in what I believe to be the weakest points

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One more thing I did was put very thin foam inside the lower body cage mount, it stops the rattling the body moves around..

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I've since fitted the 16T pinion for the next run, lets see how that goes..
That's all for now :D
Any questions just ask away

See you all soon
 
Great stuff brother! What an epic truck from TC. I know many were disappointed that the new release is an SCT, but this is a proper 1/8 SCT, which aside from Hobao, no one is really making currently. I know the Maxx Slash is out there, and it's not terrible but not race worthy either IMO. The Shiroi could be either basher as is, or racer with a few tweaks. I like it.
The tires are a bit of an odd size indeed. Personally I prefer them to be softer rubber than say the Fortress from Arrma. The Fortress are great, tough tires, but they are a compromise in grip for durability.. too hard. It would be awesome if we could fit some truggy race rubber onto the Shiroi IMO.
 
Received the wheels yesterday, will post my thoughts soon 👍🏼
I had those on my Asuga for a while and they had started to go bald after about 20 packs. But then I have a Mamba Monster X 8S and Castle 1717 motor in it and I like to drift a lot so that may have had something to do with it.
 
Hobao Hyper 8SC tires look to be the right size and are pretty cheap, once you start reusing the wheels. The tires are $19 a pair and they come as just the rubber tire so you can strap the insides with Gorilla tape before you glue them for DIY belted tires.

This youtube video I found a while back shows how it's done:
 
Bought these, could resist color coding them.. 😂 😂
They seem quite soft, almost like they forgot to fit the inner foams..!!
Haven't run them yet, but I can't see them surviving very long to be honest, but hey, Corally may prove me wrong :rolleyes:
I've not vented the tyres, but I have sealed the vent holes in the rims..

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So, todays bash was on the 16T pinion, run the car on both 4s and 6s and to be honest it wasn't as extreme as I thought it would be..:(
Didn't do any speed tests, yes, it was faster than when I had it on 14T, but at the same time it wasn't as crazy fast as my Radix, it was starting to lift the front wheels when it got upto speed, but it was quite wet so hard to judge the actual speed.
Might try 18T pinion if I can get it on for its next run just for laughs, again 4s and 6s..!!
Staring to think that 4s may just be too slow for me :rolleyes::ROFLMAO:, if the 18T doesn't make me happy I'll try changing the diff to 46T like my Radix.

Only had around 2 minutes with the tyres in the photo before it went into LVC so can't really judge them on this truck, on my buggies they are nuts..!!
Cleaning sucks, the UK is getting wetter too.!!

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Bought these, could resist color coding them.. 😂 😂
They seem quite soft, almost like they forgot to fit the inner foams..!!
Haven't run them yet, but I can't see them surviving very long to be honest, but hey, Corally may prove me wrong :rolleyes:
I've not vented the tyres, but I have sealed the vent holes in the rims..

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My Asuga XLR devoured them but it eats any tires when run on asphalt because it has an extremely dumb overpowered motor and ESC shoehorned into it. The latest victims are a set of jetco tomahawks which have started ballooning after the last session at a local park. It seems as though the belts detached themselves from the tire carcasses. Ironically the tires that have actually held up are the cheap as dirt Hyrax clones I got off Aliexpress and strapped with Gorilla Tape.
 
So, I'm not modding this truck he says... :LOL:

Quick shopping trip to Aliexpress and 8 days later I've ended up with a new esc, the XC-esc C8, a Rocket V2 4080 2150kv motor and some cool red wheel nuts :cool:

Upon strip down I noticed that the center diff seemed to have a slight leak, so took a look at that while is was in there (it was only loose screws) I'd did also buy a new diff cup too (that's for another day)
Stock setup the truck comes with 100k in the center, I removed the 100k cleaned it and topped it off with 200k as the handling wasn't quite to my liking.
I also moved the rear shocks to the more upright hole in the tower and re-adjusted the droop front and rear.

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Quick strip down ready for all the new parts I didn't need :cool:

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Just in case I forget, I always write on the diff..

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I plugged the temp plug with dielectric grease to keep the water out, this stuff is awesome for keeping water out of stuff you don't want water in.!!

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Everything sitting pretty in their new home, surprisingly the esc wire is long enough to reach the rx, anyone who owns a Corally will know that you need a very long esc wire to reach the rx box..!!

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Here's the home page and the settings page of the new esc, XC have two different Apps for the 'C' and 'E' version esc's.
This is the C version, it's quite basic but has all the options you'd need for setting all your choices, so far it all seems to work very well and for the price in my opinion it can't be beaten.!! I paid around £53 for the esc and £39 for the motor :celebrate:

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After setting everything up off we went to test it all out, did my usual 4s and 6s pack, went down to a 15T pinion for this.
OMG, what can I say, the Corally electronics are awesome as RTR go, but this XC is in another league.!!
4s and the truck seems crazy fast compared with the last bash running the Corally electronics, 6s is in another league it just wheelies on command 😂
Originally I wanted this to be a 4s truck but during my original running I found it wasn't quite enough on 4s so had almost settled on it being 6s, but now with this XC setup it can easily be a 4s truck I believe 🤔

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Had a massive cartwheel tumble which resulted in no damage, later though had a drag race with a mates Mojave 6s (that I won) but I then went and hit a small concrete post resulting in breaking a rod end.. :( Can't complain as it was driver error on my part.

I'll continue to NOT modify and upgrade this truck soon..:thumbs-up:
 
I paired a 4292 with that C8 in my own Shiroi build and i was surprised how powerful it is a d how cool it runs. I am planning to run this car on 4s too, like most of my other cars.
The esc wire was too short on mine.
I have it 180° the other way. I may try your idea and flip it around.
I am currently waiting for ADU braces i ordered.
 
I adjusted the suspension so that it sets flat with some droop. I didn't like how this drives so tomorrow I'm going to readjust it so that it stands a little bit on the suspension for more ground clearance but not fully standing on it like it did out of the box.
 
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I adjusted the suspension so that it sets flat with some droop. I didn't like how this drives so tomorrow I'm going to readjust it so that it stands a little bit on the suspension for more ground clearance but not fully standing on it like it did out of the box.
I choose my springs and settings by putting the battery and body on, then i press the car to the ground and watch how far it comes back up.
On the Shiroi, i want it to settle with the arms pointing a bit downwards. Not all the way down. So it has some down travel left.
I only use the droop screws to limit down travel, so the drive shafts, arms and steering components don't rub anywhere.
The main issue is, that due to the caster angle of the front hubs, the pivot balls can lift the suspension during steering.
 
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So did the Radix and the Asuga.
The Muraco on the other hand was too soft. I have stock Kraton EXB shocks and springs on that one.
I have 4 Fireteam rear shocks coming from JennysRC to put on the Shiroi.
 
So did the Radix and the Asuga.
The Muraco on the other hand was too soft. I have stock Kraton EXB shocks and springs on that one.
I have 4 Fireteam rear shocks coming from JennysRC to put on the Shiroi.
Out of the box my asuga had the spring preload on the front shocks set way too soft, as in the adjustment screws were set as far "out" as possible. I tightened it up so that when the chassis is bottomed out from the middle the front and back ends hit bottom at the same time. Otherwise I didn't touch it because it still had quite a bit of "up" travel with a 6000mah 6S battery installed.
 
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