Sketer Anyone else running 150 amp ESC and 4274 2200kv motor in the Sketer?

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Wheels007

Wheels007

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Corally RC's
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Just wondering if anyone is running this setup? What pinion, speeds and temps are you getting? I'm staying 4s btw. 6s is crazy.
 
ahh I was just taking a shot in the dark, didn't pay attention to your motor kv....Reading comp is low today
 
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Wheels007 said:
Just wondering if anyone is running this setup? What pinion, speeds and temps are you getting? I'm staying 4s btw. 6s is crazy.
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Have a 2200kv castle setup in it and run 4s. Use 17t pinion and it is plenty fast.
 
Wheels007 said:
nice, did you need fans?
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Don't know. I have them, never ran it without so have no idea about without them. I have never got the motor over 120 degrees F with the fans though. So runs really cool.
 
I'm running a Max8, Kuron 2050kv 17T and 15T combo. A good fan is a must! I tried without a fan and it hit thermal cutoff on mine fairly fast.
 
JPWarrior_KRX said:
I'm running a Max8, Kuron 2050kv 17T and 15T combo. A good fan is a must! I tried without a fan and it hit thermal cutoff on mine fairly fast.
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If a Max8 goes into thermal cutoff that is the ESC overheating not the motor. It does not have a motor temp connection. No way for it to know.
 
HZRDOS said:
If a Max8 goes into thermal cutoff that is the ESC overheating not the motor. It does not have a motor temp connection. No way for it to know.
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Well sheeeeet. I'm assuming it's thermal, because the motor is generally hitting 200+ while the ESC is around 170-ish and she shuts down. Now I'm lost.
 
JPWarrior_KRX said:
Well sheeeeet. I'm assuming it's thermal, because the motor is generally hitting 200+ while the ESC is around 170-ish and she shuts down. Now I'm lost.
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My understanding is that the ESC will cut off if the motor tries to draw too many amps, it's a way to protect the ESC from being burnt out by an amp hungry motor.

When a motor is being over worked it gets hot, hot motors and wires have greater electrical resistance causing them to draw more amps and more amps causes more heat. It could turn into a self feeding thermal loop if it were fed unlimited current. This would be a full blown melt down.

So, even though the ESC does not know the temp of the motor (all it knows is that the motor wants too many amps) it is a thermal issue causing the ESC to shut down the party.

Basically you have an out of balance combination of motor can size, motor KV, gearing (to include tire diameter) and weight of vehicle.

Try fans or fans and a gearing change.

Unfortunately, the folks that make RC motors say 180 degrees Fahrenheit is the temp limit and 200+ causes damage. Don't be surprised if that motor underperforms or tends to run warmer than it should, even after being geared down. May want to start looking at the ideal motor kv for the speeds you want to hit with your tire of choice.
There are some good articles online to calculate all this.
 
All I know is the Castle MMX 2200kv combo is PERFECT for 4s. Have it in my Sketer and my Tekno MT410. Both geared pretty heavy, and never get over 120 on motor, or 150 on ESC.
 
HZRDOS said:
All I know is the Castle MMX 2200kv combo is PERFECT for 4s. Have it in my Sketer and my Tekno MT410. Both geared pretty heavy, and never get over 120 on motor, or 150 on ESC.
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Yeah, Castle has a good reputation for staying cool at a higher gear ratio than Hobbywing.

There may be another explanation for the motor overheating, bad bearings will cause a motor to overheat. I'm sure there are others
 
I did have some binding issues in the rear end and driveline from bash damages I discovered while rebuilding the rear of the car. All has been corrected, and at this point it does seem to be much cooler, but I haven't had much time to run it since the repairs.
...and thank you both for your advice.
 
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