Asuga A roller build

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By the way, I am thinking of cutting battery connection off of the esc.
Any pros or cons?
If I go that way, do I need to keep the 4 capacitors in the loop (wire)?
1 red cable goes from the esc to the plus and the black cable goes to the minus with or without the capacitors?
Much appreciated.
 
KeeCie said:
People, people, Metz is going to sell the Asuga roller for 280 euro. For now it is sold out. But should I buy it?
Click to expand...
Welcome KeeCie.
The Asuga a popular buggy for a reason.
Being a scaled up competition buggy, it can handle more types of terrain. It is fast and stable and nimble.
My Asugas are high on my list of favourite bashers.
 
Partydaz said:
You wanna keep the cap pack where it is and only cut off the lipo connectors and swap to whatever you use.

some info on what a cap pack does and wiring guide : https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/product/C-54012-CB/files/Cap Pack TOROX 135 - Installation.pdf
Click to expand...
Thanks,

I wanna keep the xt90 but only 1 connection.
Before :
1000035979.webp


After
1000035980.webp

This should be it right? Just cut and resolder the 2 loose ends and make it like the blue line (a bit shorter ofcourse).
 
Rotauq said:
Correct.
As for the placement of the cappack, the closer it's positioned to the esc the better
See page 2 of @Partydaz link
Click to expand...
Oh dad, do I really need to? 🤣

I was hoping on making just 1 solderjoint.
Like ; snip, snip and solder. A bit of shrinktube and done.
 
KeeCie said:
Oh dad, do I really need to? 🤣

I was hoping on making just 1 solderjoint.
Like ; snip, snip and solder. A bit of shrinktube and done.
Click to expand...
My unofficial answer :geek: ESC has it's own caps and should suffice for general purpose.
Adding the cappack will make run slightly cooler and make it live slightly longer.
If you care you best do it right, but it's not bad per se if you just do a snip snip solder
 
Rotauq said:
My unofficial answer :geek: ESC has it's own caps and should suffice for general purpose.
Adding the cappack will make run slightly cooler and make it live slightly longer.
If you care you best do it right, but it's not bad per se if you just do a snip snip solder
Click to expand...
don't get me wrong, I'm leaving the cappack. I am just not shortening the distance.
 
This is the servo I use in my asuga, kagama, Kronos, hobao sste, and finally, my mt8 lol

EDIT i left my poor sketer out of the list lol,


I just found this on AliExpress:
9imod 55kg Waterproof Servo IP67 180/270 Magnetic Sensor High Torque Coreless Digital Servo Full Metal Gear for 1/8 1/10 RC Cars
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIGcS5A
 
gouldy said:
This is the servo I use in my asuga, kagama, Kronos, hobao sste, and finally, my mt8 lol

EDIT i left my poor sketer out of the list lol,


I just found this on AliExpress:
9imod 55kg Waterproof Servo IP67 180/270 Magnetic Sensor High Torque Coreless Digital Servo Full Metal Gear for 1/8 1/10 RC Cars
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIGcS5A
Click to expand...
The "same" as the one I bought but slightly less torqy and other brand. Will keep in mind if mine fails on me.
 
Pulled the cash trigger, bought a green Asuga roller. 💵💵
300 euros incl shipping to the NL.

I think I need some guidance for mounting a motor, when are the spur and the pinion too tight/close?
I didn't understand the explanation from TC, by putting a piece of paper in between.
Who can explain it with simple words?
 
KeeCie said:
Pulled the cash trigger, bought a green Asuga roller. 💵💵
300 euros incl shipping to the NL.

I think I need some guidance for mounting a motor, when are the spur and the pinion too tight/close?
I didn't understand the explanation from TC, by putting a piece of paper in between.
Who can explain it with simple words?
Click to expand...
It's just that to set a correct and consistent mesh, a piece of A4 paper can be used to put between the spur and pinion.
So when you slide the motor in, put the paper in there, push the spur and pinion together, fasten motor mount screws and remove paper. Done
Since spur gears are often a bit out of round, check the mesh in different positions of the spur gear, to avoid tight spots.
 
We ‘ve all done the paper method oncemot twice. After that you’ll do it by ‘touch and sound’.
Slide the motor with pinion tight against the spur gear. If you gently try to move the pinion or spur gear a tiny bit you should hear nothing and feel that both are tight together.
Now move the motor back as little as you can (maybe about 0.5mm just to give you an idea). Now you should have a tiny ‘wiggle’ if tou try to move the pinion back and forth against the spir gear. And when doing that you should also hear that distinctive click-click’ sound.
There are also umerous vids on YT on how to set a proper mesh.
Don’t worry, after doing it a couple of times, it’ll become second nature😁.
 
Sandracer_NL said:
We ‘ve all done the paper method oncemot twice. After that you’ll do it by ‘touch and sound’.
Slide the motor with pinion tight against the spur gear. If you gently try to move the pinion or spur gear a tiny bit you should hear nothing and feel that both are tight together.
Now move the motor back as little as you can (maybe about 0.5mm just to give you an idea). Now you should have a tiny ‘wiggle’ if tou try to move the pinion back and forth against the spir gear. And when doing that you should also hear that distinctive click-click’ sound.
There are also umerous vids on YT on how to set a proper mesh.
Don’t worry, after doing it a couple of times, it’ll become second nature😁.
Click to expand...
I have heard the click clicks on YT. That is what I should aim at then. Merci.
 
1000036620.webp

Hey guys, so I'm done. I have the click click like the YT as possible. The servo was not that hard, I shaved a bit of plastic off of the inside of the servo housing. The cable wire rubber thing twisted itself vertically, so we will see what happens after some hard driving.
One thing I want to ask the Asuga owners, what do you do with the antenna? Drill a hole in the body?
As you can see, the Radiolink receiver has 2 antenna wires. They fit in the straw, but the straw doesn't bend (not much) when I put the body on.
I neeed insight.

The car is pretty, almost a shame to drive it.
 
KeeCie said:
View attachment 11812
Hey guys, so I'm done. I have the click click like the YT as possible. The servo was not that hard, I shaved a bit of plastic off of the inside of the servo housing. The cable wire rubber thing twisted itself vertically, so we will see what happens after some hard driving.
One thing I want to ask the Asuga owners, what do you do with the antenna? Drill a hole in the body?
As you can see, the Radiolink receiver has 2 antenna wires. They fit in the straw, but the straw doesn't bend (not much) when I put the body on.
I neeed insight.

The car is pretty, almost a shame to drive it.
Click to expand...
I just use a rubber band to hold the antenna to the receiver box. Didn't want to drill through body
 
KeeCie said:
Do you mean like wind it up?
Click to expand...
No, take out the receiver box and place a rubber band on the chassis so when you refit the receiver box it traps it, then loop it over the box with the antenna pressed against the lid of the receiver box.

You could use gorilla tape or another strong tape to stick it down instead of the rubber band method

Here is where the band would sit

Screenshot_20260212_221026_Chrome.webp
 
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