Kagama 3d printed rear wishbone/suspension arm for kagama

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mrBigpitts said:
Awesome thank you for the file,I'm having a lot of success with 73d tpu(a blend with nylon) and glass reinforced PBT(some bed adhesion problems) for upper/lower arms.
The 73d has just the right amount of flex and at 75% gyroid with 4 walls it's pretty much indestructible.
Also 73d is compatible with ams/cfs as an added bonus!

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Sorry, should read 72d,not 73d tpu.
 
I need to find the time to print a test LCA with my 72D TPU. I love the idea suggested earlier about printing in 7075.
 
AggyMi said:
AHH so the "grain" of the print direction is a factor, I had no idea.
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Print orientation is important.

I have found that for most parts on an RC a flexible material like TPU is required. PETG parts were simply shattering on me. The other nice thing about TPU is that you can get amazing layer adhesion. Finally, while many printers like my prusa mini are not rated for TPU due to jamming concerns, the higher shore stuff, like 72D and even some 98A print without jamming. The bad thing is you must have a great drying system before you can successfully print TPU.
 
danl said:
I need to find the time to print a test LCA with my 72D TPU. I love the idea suggested earlier about printing in 7075.
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Lol,that would be one tough fairytale being able to print 7075 aluminium, lol.
 
danl said:
Print orientation is important.

I have found that for most parts on an RC a flexible material like TPU is required. PETG parts were simply shattering on me. The other nice thing about TPU is that you can get amazing layer adhesion. Finally, while many printers like my prusa mini are not rated for TPU due to jamming concerns, the higher shore stuff, like 72D and even some 98A print without jamming. The bad thing is you must have a great drying system before you can successfully print TPU.
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Ok,couple of caveats about my previous posts.
72d tpu specifically cc3d nylon blend needs to be printed at 250c to get the nylon to melt uniformly.
I always print on a glue covered texured pei plate which offers excellent bed adhesion (having a 7.5 hour print fail in the last 20min is devastating).
Drying tpu is subject to your environmental conditions,where i live in Australia is generally low humidity and I've successfully printed with rolls of tpu that have been left in an open bag with a little pack of desiccant for over 2 years.
I use a spring spacer on my creality k2 plus to reduce the tension on the direct drive head when I use tpu to avoid jaming.
So far as Drying I've found the higher the shore hardness when using tpu the less it's affected by moisture, any standard filliment dryer is ok when used long enough.
Please don't print anything In PLA,PETG,ABS unless it's for test prints/proof of concept.
Avoid high chamber temps when printing TPU.
ALWAYS print control arms vertically with tree supports with a 0.1mm interface.
Nylon is super tough and a great filliment to produce parts,if you can make it happen, good luck to you and your a better man than me.
Everything said I don't claim to be an expert on everything 3d printing, just like everyone here we are all learning no matter how old you are, the printing side for me started years ago when I was making parts for rc aircraft.
 
danl said:
I need to find the time to print a test LCA with my 72D TPU. I love the idea suggested earlier about printing in 7075.
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Lol,I think the best part about printing is not worrying about finding time unless you're referring to cad time,which i completely understand.
I love my near silent creality k2 plus, which is in the room next to my bedroom, unlike my old bambulab "rock concert "printer.
I just slice ,hit print,go to work and if I want monitor the live feed camera,come home and she's all done.
 
mrBigpitts said:
Lol,that would be one tough fairytale being able to print 7075 aluminium, lol.
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Phrasing matters? LOL

mrBigpitts said:
Lol,I think the best part about printing is not worrying about finding time unless you're referring to cad time,which i completely understand.
I love my near silent creality k2 plus, which is in the room next to my bedroom, unlike my old bambulab "rock concert "printer.
I just slice ,hit print,go to work and if I want monitor the live feed camera,come home and she's all done.
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It's mainly the modeling that I'm not super quick at. I don't do it enough to be fast like other folks.
 
I'm very lucky, I run a laser cutter at work and I can use the time while the machine is running to draw stuff up
 
Yeah so it's not my printer at work it's my mates. He tried the TPU this morning and it printed a layer great and then clogged or something, the filament got flattened between the drive wheels, had teeth marks one side but smooth the other so I guess that means the driving gear was slipping. More testing required.
 
I did a test print with the CC3D 72D TPU and it turned out great for a first print. I did 75% gyroid infill which is slightly stiffer than the stock LCA at room temperature. As with all TPU's, printing speed if very low. My max allowed print speed was set to 3mm^3/second and the LCA pictured too about 8 hours to print. I printed at 250 C but after doing a temperature tower it looks like 230 C may be a good nozzle temp for my printer.


LCA.webp
 
danl said:
I did a test print with the CC3D 72D TPU and it turned out great for a first print. I did 75% gyroid infill which is slightly stiffer than the stock LCA at room temperature. As with all TPU's, printing speed if very low. My max allowed print speed was set to 3mm^3/second and the LCA pictured too about 8 hours to print. I printed at 250 C but after doing a temperature tower it looks like 230 C may be a good nozzle temp for my printer.


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Wow! That looks really good! Have you tried it yet?
 
I only test fitted it. I’m still perfecting filament settings, this was my first print without any optimizations. I want to change print orientation and supports to reduce post processing. I didn’t expect my first print to be useable.
 
Could someone give me a breakdown of their settings please? it's being resistant on my mates printer
 
Fireblade said:
Could someone give me a breakdown of their settings please? it's being resistant on my mates printer
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Print very slow then work the speed up. A rear arm should take 6-8 hours. Try printing a benchy first to see if your settings are even close.
 
Sorted! Problem was entirely moisture related. New hotter drier and a few hours in it and it's printing well.
 
Ahh. I go crazy drying my TPU before even considering trying to print. 24-36 hours of drying is normal for me.
 
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