Kagama 3d printed rear wishbone/suspension arm for kagama

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kagisrally

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Corally RC's
  1. Kagama
Hi, I'm new to TC.

I have a Kagama XP 6s, and unfortunately, it has already broken twice on both rear sides of the wishbones in cold temperatures. I think I still need to improve my skills in the basher area, so I wanted to share my STL file with you (it's the right side,so if needed mirror it). This may also fit other models, but I'm not yet familiar with the compatibility.


I would appreciate any feedback.

Best regards, Isra

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Awesome! Do you have a 3mf you can share?
 
Awesome thank you for the file,I'm having a lot of success with 73d tpu(a blend with nylon) and glass reinforced PBT(some bed adhesion problems) for upper/lower arms.
The 73d has just the right amount of flex and at 75% gyroid with 4 walls it's pretty much indestructible.
Also 73d is compatible with ams/cfs as an added bonus!

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20260209_225859.webp
 
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oh nice!! Good recommendation! I was already looking which TPU hardness would be best, now I'll try out your suggestions! Thanks!
Currently, I only have everything in PETG with 7 Walls, 6 Top/Bottom pattern, 25% infill (fine for testing purposes) & ASA (not recommended). it gets ruined in cold temperatures.

1770644942946.webp
 
kagisrally said:
oh nice!! Good recommendation! I was already looking which TPU hardness would be best, now I'll try out your suggestions! Thanks!
Currently, I only have everything in PETG with 7 Walls, 6 Top/Bottom pattern, 25% infill (fine for testing purposes) & ASA (not recommended). it gets ruined in cold temperatures.

View attachment 11783
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Yeah, I started with 100% infill and 5 walls pla/petg CF,and abs,,all good for speed runs but the slightest bump and it was all over,doesn't ever get below 5 degrees Celsius where I live in Australia so not much cold temp testing advice I can offer with tpu.
Best of luck, I think the tpu will be your best bet with cold.
 
mrBigpitts said:
Awesome thank you for the file,I'm having a lot of success with 73d tpu(a blend with nylon) and glass reinforced PBT(some bed adhesion problems) for upper/lower arms.
The 73d has just the right amount of flex and at 75% gyroid with 4 walls it's pretty much indestructible.
Also 73d is compatible with ams/cfs as an added bonus!

View attachment 11781

View attachment 11782
Click to expand...
What tpu are you using that has nylon in it? I found some 72D from CC3D?
 
What is a cold chamber. I am like month 4 of owning a 3d printer.
 
danl said:
What is a cold chamber. I am like month 4 of owning a 3d printer.
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Some,not all,printers have active heated enclosures/chambers,cold just means heater is disabled,helps stop heat creep which clogs nozzles which are very susceptible when printing TPU filliment.
 
Some files I made but I'm a noob with fusion 360 and IMO aren't awesome. Though if you are like me sometimes printing junk helps you keep the car running until the parts you ordered arrive.

In the .zip I have

-Bushings for the M2C A and B blocks (make from TPU to give some flexibility)
-Wing mount system. It has the mount and a small "chip" that you slide a nut into. Then slide the chip/nut into the wing mount to add threads to the system. Print in TPU. The flex keeps the whole wing mount from breaking so easily. Use more or less infill to get the flexibility you need for your running conditions/temps.
-Gearbox gaskets for the Kagama LE. TPU
-Front Kagama bumper. Not happy with how this one due to my lack of F360 skills. Print in TPU, it flexes a lot, and it keeps the truck in the game until replacement parts arrive.
 

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mrBigpitts said:
Some,not all,printers have active heated enclosures/chambers,cold just means heater is disabled,helps stop heat creep which clogs nozzles which are very susceptible when printing TPU filliment.
Click to expand...
Ahh, I'm on a prusa mini so no chamber. Picked up used to see if printing would be useful.
 
danl said:
Ahh, I'm on a prusa mini so no chamber. Picked up used to see if printing would be useful.
Click to expand...
From your previous post it sounds like you've got it under control, the prusa mini is a great unit for you to learn on and get used to slicer settings and different filliment set ups,just keep in mind not every setting recommendation will work for you and generally requires some tweaking with different environmental factors at play,filliment dryness,pressure advance,humidity changes from day to day.
I have thousands tied up in printer equipment and I'm now at the stage where I get really pissed if I break something and can't reproduce the part in CAD and successfully print it.
Google is your best friend when it comes to base line settings that will get you started.
 
danl said:
Some files I made but I'm a noob with fusion 360 and IMO aren't awesome. Though if you are like me sometimes printing junk helps you keep the car running until the parts you ordered arrive.

In the .zip I have

-Bushings for the M2C A and B blocks (make from TPU to give some flexibility)
-Wing mount system. It has the mount and a small "chip" that you slide a nut into. Then slide the chip/nut into the wing mount to add threads to the system. Print in TPU. The flex keeps the whole wing mount from breaking so easily. Use more or less infill to get the flexibility you need for your running conditions/temps.
-Gearbox gaskets for the Kagama LE. TPU
-Front Kagama bumper. Not happy with how this one due to my lack of F360 skills. Print in TPU, it flexes a lot, and it keeps the truck in the game until replacement parts arrive.
Click to expand...
Oh! You just solved a current problem I'm working on. I was just working on the front bumper design, thank you!
If you have any more files for TC, I'd be happy to take them.
 
kagisrally said:
Oh! You just solved a current problem I'm working on. I was just working on the front bumper design, thank you!
If you have any more files for TC, I'd be happy to take them.
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Lol,I have file's mostly for arrma stuff as I don't usually have to replace much TC parts,says something about the brand!
 
kagisrally said:
Oh! You just solved a current problem I'm working on. I was just working on the front bumper design, thank you!
If you have any more files for TC, I'd be happy to take them.
Click to expand...
You are welcome. I ran it for a bit and it got me by until replacement parts arrived. I can send you the source file if you want to make it better. Just pm me and let me know the format you prefer.
 
3D prints just love to split across the layers if the layer adhesion isn't perfect, which with the hotter printing materials is easier to get wrong.
 
AggyMi said:
AHH so the "grain" of the print direction is a factor, I had no idea.
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Exactly,there's a slicer setting called beam interlocking which helps a lot with this problem but it's still far from perfect, and some filliment types have far better layer adhesion than others,72d tpu with the nylon addition has excellent layer adhesion when print settings are correct.
You can also design pockets in the print using your cad software and put a pause in your printing progress to install some 7075 stiffners, which adds some extra rigidity to the tpu which can have some sagging problems on hot days.
 
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