That servo is 0.10 sec 60 degrees at 7.4v and 0.09sec at 8.4v (I run it at 8v). Speed rating for servos are always zero load. So if you use a stronger servo than necessary you may get the same or better response speed from it than the weaker/faster one because the stronger servo will be less affected by load than the weaker one. I learned this from helicopter tail servos when I found that a 0.04 sec 17kg-cm tail servo servo out performed a 0.028 sec 9kg/cm servo at hard piro stops and keeping the tail from moving during high collective maneuvers.
Unlike more expensive servos Ypin servos do not have electronics silicone applied to the solder joints on the internal leads, but the design of the case makes this easy to correct (this servo specifically, servos with an all metal shell can make this difficult). Just pop off the top cap and the plastic lower gearbox (which sits on top of the metal center) to get access to the wires between the PCB and the pot and apply some goop to the solder joints on the pot wires at both ends and the main lead to protect against vibration. You can reassemble immediately and allow it to cure with the case closed, I would recommend putting the top and center pieces back together but leaving the bottom off overnight to allow some airflow and atmospheric moisture in to help cure the silicone. I used to use Chip Quick electronics silicone purchased from Digikey until I found Tian Mu 706 that's very similar and much cheaper:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801125199147.html
This is optional though, the servo will probably be fine if used as-is because the soldering isn't terrible (I would NEVER used a servo without glued down leads in air R/C however)
Also you must NEVER use silicone that isn't made for electronics use for this, most RTV silicones are acidic and you need a neutral cure silicone for electronics. Common construction silicone for example contains what is basicly concentrated vinigar to cure.
Time will tell with your Ypin.
If they meet your requirements, that's really all that matters.
I'm very impressed with HiTec servos, which over the years have lasted well and were reasonably priced. My large scale aircraft are all still equipped with HiTec.
In all 7 of my cars in 2025, I'm running modern Protek 170 SBL, Protek 170 TBL, AGF 81BHMW and AGF A62BHS.
The performance, consistency, specifications have all been tried, tested and documented. Protek servos especially have an impressive portfolio of wins at the highest level of 1/8th racing. Ryan Mayfield & Adam Drake are just 2 high profile advocates.
AGF were one of the few servo manufacturers whose products actually exceed the stated specifications, according to a servo tester channel on YouTube.
Ultimately, a servo's functional purpose is relatively straightforward and modern servos are much, much better than the Acoms plastic geared things I started out with in my Sand Scorcher back in 1981!
These days I prefer my servos to be brushless, with hall effect potentiometers, high voltage (so they are over-spec when I run them on 6v), all alloy cases. Being waterproof is an added bonus, although I never immerse my rigs anyway.
Torque ratings on servos are ridiculous now. Racing my Savage on dirt and high traction grass, I used a 13kg steering servo turning 40 series tyres with a response of 0.13s/60°. It was good for the job. At that time, 13kg was considered crazy torque!
But here we are, 2 decades later and it's now totally standard to run 30, 40, 50kg servos.
Do we need such crazy high numbers? No.
But does having more torque than you need hurt? Also no.
The market is flooded with crazy spec, Chinese servos. Buyer beware.
8.4)0.072sec60°
That's just $30.33!! Crazy stuff. I could get 4 of these for the price of my last Protek 170 SBL!! 
