Castle 1717 fitment in Asuga XLR

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Atomic Skull

Atomic Skull

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WARNING: Castle motors will interfere with m4 washers on the upper motor mount fixing screw that are larger than 9mm OD with the stock Corally motor mount. This is because unlike most motors the front face of the motor can is not beveled. Make SURE the washer lays flat before tightening the screw or you're going to have a cosmetic mar on your motor can face (I noticed this beforehand or it would have been very annoying)

Fitment with a Castle 1717 (47mmx85mm) in the Asuga XLR

To avoid (or minimize) cutting you must use a 46T spur

You MUST use stock Corally motor mount with 16T or smaller pinions, the pinion will not reach with 16T or less with the ADU Racing motor mount. You can use the aluminum bearing holder insert from the ADU motor mount in the Corally motor mount bulkhead instead of the plastic one.

14T: Clears the sidewall, no modification needed.

15T Just barely touches the sidewall, you can optionally shave the plastic at the exact spot where it touches by a depth of about 1 mm with dremel and a grinder or burr for more clearance without going completely through the sidewall but it will be alright if you leave it as-is

16T presses on the sidewall a little. A 6mm wide hole cut at the exact spot where the edge of the motor touches the sidewall should correct this.

17T Same as above but you might need a bigger hole.

14T with a 1650KV is about 1mph slower than the RTR motor and 13T pinion.
15T with a 1650KV is about 3MPH faster than the RTR motor and 13T pinion.
16T with a 1650KV is about 6mph faster than the RTR motor and 13T pinion.

In all of the above torque will be much higher, the 1717 is a 1/6 scale motor recommended for cars weighting up to 20lbs.
 
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This sounds like fun. I have a 1515 in an Sworkz and that thing is rapid on 6S. 1717 is going to fly in the Asuga. 🤩👍
 
Could have made it a bit smaller. If I were to do it over I would have masked it off on either side with painters tape or masking tape with the motor installed and used that as a guide.

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That motor is so powerful, you can go upto a 23 t pinion. Which results in a calculated top speed of 150kmh on 6s.
Running a motor like that with small pinions like the stock ones, results in over revving and heat, because the motor has no load to speak of to pull, in a light car like the Asuga.
I run the Hobbywing 4985 motors. They are similar in power and performance. I found out, that for my Asugas, running these motors on 4s with a 21t pinion and 46t spur, results in a top speed of 95kmh. I decided to stick with that. Keep in mind that i don't run these big blocks for the top speed, but because my running conditions are pretty demanding.
The motors run cool. And since i run a 21t now, the batteries don't get as hot either.
I did cut the windshields out of the bodies for cooling, and i have twin fans on the motors.
 
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SirCrashALot said:
That motor is so powerful, you can go upto a 23 t pinion. Which results in a calculated top speed of 150kmh on 6s.
Running a motor like that with small pinions like the stock ones, results in over revving and heat, because the motor has no load to speak of to pull, in a light car like the Asuga.
I run the Hobbywing 4985 motors. They are similar in power and performance. I found out, that for my Asugas, running these motors on 4s with a 21t pinion and 46t spur, results in a top speed of 95kmh. I decided to stick with that. Keep in mind that i don't run these big blocks for the top speed, but because my running conditions are pretty demanding.
The motors run cool. And since i run a 21t now, the batteries don't get as hot either.
I did cut the windshields out of the bodies for cooling, and i have twin fans on the motors.
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I'm going to be mixing 6S and 8S packs, 6S 5000mah because I already have many of those for my 12S 700 size helicopters and 8S because I want to try my hand at making my own 8S li-ion packs out of high amp Molicel 21700 cells after reading on RCG about EDF guys doing that on RCG. Li-ion has gotten to the point of being competitive with lipo now but with the added bonus of much longer lifespan and less weight for the same mah.
 
Atomic Skull said:
Fitment with a Castle 1717 (47mmx85mm) in the Asuga XLR

To avoid (or minimize) cutting you must use a 46T spur

You MUST use stock Corally motor mount with 16T or smaller pinions, the pinion will not reach with 16T or less with the ADU Racing motor mount. You can use the aluminum bearing holder insert from the ADU motor mount in the Corally motor mount bulkhead instead of the plastic one.

14T: Clears the sidewall, no modification needed.

15T Just barely touches the sidewall, you can optionally shave the plastic at the exact spot where it touches by a depth of about 1 mm with dremel and a grinder or burr for more clearance without going completely through the sidewall but it will be alright if you leave it as-is

16T presses on the sidewall a little. A 6mm wide hole cut at the exact spot where the edge of the motor touches the sidewall should correct this.

17T Same as above but you might need a bigger hole.

14T with a 1650KV is about 1mph slower than the RTR motor and 13T pinion.
15T with a 1650KV is about 3MPH faster than the RTR motor and 13T pinion.
16T with a 1650KV is about 6mph faster than the RTR motor and 13T pinion.

In all of the above torque will be much higher, the 1717 is a 1/6 scale motor recommended for cars weighting up to 20lbs.
Click to expand...
Lol, I just found this post after asking for this information, tried deleting but it doesn't let me
 
Nelson.81 said:
They a tight fit, could cut guard or another option is the adu chassis it relocates esc & no side guards
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No need to cut through with a 15T just grind down the plastic on the inside where it touches by about 1mm. It will still touch but it won't push the side wall out and will be fine.

I don't like the idea of no side guard that would be a disaster off road.
 
Added warning about motor mount washers to the OP. I forgot the washers so didn't know this when I made that post. Thankfully I noticed the problem and replaced the washers with standard ones before proceeding because cosmetically marring a brand new $200 motor would have been very annoying.
 
I decided that seeing as I'd have to cut the sidewall to fit the ESC I may as well cut the sidewall for the motor to allow larger pinions too.

Also DO NOT attempt to use the screw mounts on the ESC plate for the XC-ESC E6 / Mad Max Max7 it might seem like it will just fit while pushing out the sidewall a little but the center brace will crush the wires. I nicked the insulation on the power button lead just past where it exits the case this way. Thankfully I had some electronics grade silicone on hand and I entombed the wire bundle where it exits in a blob of it so I can pretend I was just adding a strain relief. It's actually much tougher than the PVC wire insulation (also, NEVER use common construction silicone for electronics it MUST be rated for use on PCBs because most RTV silicone formulations contain acetic acid and will corrode reactive metals)

I'm going to use this ESC for the time being but I have decided to go to an all Castle system and have ordered a Mamba Monster X 8S. If you order certain Castle products from Perfect Pass RC they give you a free pack of 5 sets of QS8 V2 connectors that are worth $35 so the ESC "technically" cost $180.

The XC ESC E6 seems like a great ESC so far though and I will use it in another project at some point. That's *if* you buy it direct from XC-ESC if you buy from Intigy or the Mad Max Max7 (which is the same thing rebranded) I think the price gets too close to a Mamba Monster X 8S to make sense anymore.

The wiring is a bit messy but it's temporary I just wanted to get this car going again after 2 weeks on the bench. I'm planing on putting the Castle in so no use cleaning everything up when it's getting pulled out later.

The overheating I was having with the Hobbywing Max 8 / 4278 is gone, temps were maxing out at the end of a pack at 125F for the ESC and 161F for the motor where the Max 6 combo was going into thermal shutdown from either the motor or ESC depending on which reached the limit first (I'm putting that into a Hobao Hyper GT which is a lighter car and hopefully it won't have problems there.) The Castle ESC will probably run the motor a little cooler because it intelligently switches to sensorless mode at higher RPM which is more efficient.

The acceleration is nuts with this setup way WAY more power than the Max 8 combo had AND it runs cooler, win-win.

EDIT: Also I am using a Surpass Hobby fan with the Castle fan shroud, the stock fan was ok but the Surpass Hobby fan moves more air.

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