Droop screws suck

[Atomic Skull]

So has anyone else had the droop screws gradually eat holes in the aluminum flange? There needs to be a hard surface there like a washer or a screw head in the chassis that the setscrew can rest against. A 3mm flathead screw would do the job. Just seems like a dumb design I could see how it was going to fail right from the start.

 

[The Stig]

Same here. I put some Tekno droop screws in my Sketer. They are wider. Problem solved. Think i am gonna do that for my Asuga 2

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Yes.
I hope the droop screws of the new sbx825 are compatible with other cars.

 

[Atomic Skull]

I'm thinking I'm just going to drill and tap where the pit in the aluminum has developed and put another setscrew there.

 

[shortround9191]

I'm thinking I'm just going to drill and tap where the pit in the aluminum has developed and put another setscrew there.

I’ve actually noticed considerable wear on my Kagama and Spark have a few ideas will keep yall posted

 

[Nelson.81]

Avid do titanium droop screws, 2 different types 1/10 & 1/8 both fit I bought 1/10 by mistake but still work.

https://www.avidrc.com/product/5/ac...Screws-8th-Scale-4pcs-AV1813-accessories.html

 

[Atomic Skull]

Avid do titanium droop screws, 2 different types 1/10 & 1/8 both fit I bought 1/10 by mistake but still work.

https://www.avidrc.com/product/5/ac...Screws-8th-Scale-4pcs-AV1813-accessories.html

My problem with those is they are going to limit your available droop because of the domed head

I found this cheap option: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-racing-d8-v2-droop-screw-4-hbs204860/p1502276

And these more expensive ones:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/j-t-be...titanium-droop-screw-set-jtb-jt10907/p1500300

https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolution-design-titanium-1-8-droop-screw-4-4x12mm-rdrp0646/p1568437

And also these cheaper ones:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805131174607.html

https://www.rc-tworks.com/products/tp-087-64-titanium-down-stop-screws-4pcs

The low head will still limit your maximum droop but you need to limit it to prevent the steering hubs from binding on the balls at full droop anyway.

 

[Nelson.81]

My problem with those is they are going to limit your available droop because of the domed head

I found this cheap option: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-racing-d8-v2-droop-screw-4-hbs204860/p1502276

And these more expensive ones:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/j-t-be...titanium-droop-screw-set-jtb-jt10907/p1500300

https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolution-design-titanium-1-8-droop-screw-4-4x12mm-rdrp0646/p1568437

And also these cheaper ones:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805131174607.html

https://www.rc-tworks.com/products/tp-087-64-titanium-down-stop-screws-4pcs

The low head will still limit your maximum droop but you need to limit it to prevent the steering hubs from binding on the balls at full droop anyway.

They don’t limit your height there’s enough room check horatio’s kronos xtr build he has them installed, or there is also the 1/10 version which also fit, but those you’ve listed will work just the same whatever your preference

 

[Atomic Skull]

These Hobao droop screws looks nice too

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266694813893

 

[The Stig]

Check this;

Kronos XTR Thread 'Will droop screws eventually puncture through the chassis?'

Aug 24, 2022

Hi guys,

I recently took the front and rear gearbox and shock towers off the chassis and noticed that the droop screws have created engraved marks on the chassis as seen on the pictures below and I'm wondering if with time this will eventually puncture through the chassis?

Is this something I should worry about? I'm not sure what can be done about this.... perhaps a locking nut at the end of the droop screw so that it creates a bigger contact surface against the chassis. Maybe there's nothing to worry about...?

• DaniC
• Replies: 41
• Forum: Corally 6s

• 

 

[Manolis]

Either 3 or 4mm screw is fine?

 

[Atomic Skull]

Either 3 or 4mm screw is fine?

3mm is too small the stock setscrews are M4.

 

[Horatio]

These are what you need for droop screws. Steel on aluminium alloy chassis is always going to gouge. These dome heads don't damage the chassis and titanium is softer than steel.

I run these on my XTR and T2E.

 

[AggyMi]

I just bought these bad boys on eBay for practically nothing they're going in right now.

 

[Nelson.81]

I’ve avid titanium ones in mine but also came across these ones, or corally have new ones on sbx825

https://klinikrc.com/shop-1/ols/products/klinik-rc-titanium-4mm-droop-screws-4pcs

 

[Horatio]

I just bought these bad boys on eBay for practically nothing they're going in right now. View attachment 9197

Dome heads are better than stabby grub screws. But ideally, the droop screws should be from something softer than 7075.

 

[Horatio]

I’ve avid titanium ones in mine but also came across these ones, or corally have new ones on sbx825

https://klinikrc.com/shop-1/ols/products/klinik-rc-titanium-4mm-droop-screws-4pcs

My choice too!

They're not cheap, but I don't care. Cheaper than a replacement chassis.

Which reminds me - I need to find an ingenious way of fitting that beautiful Scorched Parts centre front driveshaft that you sent me.

Hold them in a certain way and you can see the amazing rainbow colours.

 

[Nelson.81]

My choice too!

They're not cheap, but I don't care. Cheaper than a replacement chassis.

Which reminds me - I need to find an ingenious way of fitting that beautiful Scorched Parts centre front driveshaft that you sent me.

Hold them in a certain way and you can see the amazing rainbow colours.

I’ve got scorched parts in my shopping cart few bits out of stock stopping me pulling the trigger. Vitavon & corally 7075 parts inbound too

 

[Horatio]

I’ve got scorched parts in my shopping cart few bits out of stock stopping me pulling the trigger. Vitavon & corally 7075 parts inbound too

Can't wait to see what you're up to.....

 

[AggyMi]

All done, packed out with washers to stop the screw threads wearing through the arms too.