Asuga On track experience

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Finally got all my parts in for the Spark, installed took her out for a run and shredded my first tire on the road. Thankfully I had a new spare installed jumped ran on dirt with zero issues. Boy with a 16 pinion she is a wicked little beast and punch turned to 4 for now. Think I need to invest in some more tires

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I figured that was gonna be the answer, don’t plan on running on the road much. After the upgrades wanted to cut her loose but oops 🙊 she just shreds now crazy power speed on the 16pinion. May back down to 15 today was more about getting suspension steering dialed in for my driving style
 
I figured that was gonna be the answer, don’t plan on running on the road much. After the upgrades wanted to cut her loose but oops 🙊 she just shreds now crazy power speed on the 16pinion. May back down to 15 today was more about getting suspension steering dialed in for my driving style
My 6S Asuga with a 12T pinion balded the stock tires in about 5 packs on asphalt. The motor is a Hobbywing 4278 2250kv so the 12T is basically equivalent to the stock 13T in the RTR.
 
My 6S Asuga with a 12T pinion balded the stock tires in about 5 packs on asphalt. The motor is a Hobbywing 4278 2250kv so the 12T is basically equivalent to the stock 13T in the RTR.
I got to jump the Spark today now I do love my Kagama4 especially since upping the pinion. The Spark seems to born to fly, I only have the 2 to compare to but am very impressed with the Spark ordered a extra set of wheel tires for the Kagama and am looking at some for the Spark
 
Finally got all my parts in for the Spark, installed took her out for a run and shredded my first tire on the road. Thankfully I had a new spare installed jumped ran on dirt with zero issues. Boy with a 16 pinion she is a wicked little beast and punch turned to 4 for now. Think I need to invest in some more tires

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Someone's been having too much fun! 😝😅
 
I think the issue here is unbanded tyres will explode on any surface if they're allowed to 'light up' and spin too much.

It's a shame in this example, as there's still plenty of meat left in them.
 
I think the issue here is unbanded tyres will explode on any surface if they're allowed to 'light up' and spin too much.

It's a shame in this example, as there's still plenty of meat left in them.
I'm going to experiment with fiberglass drywall tape and shoe goo on the inside of the tire.

The unmodified Phaltlyne clones balooned some but did not explode at full throttle on the bench though I was also using the equivalent RPM to the stock gearing I mentioned before (12t with a 2250kv motor). There are videos of people driving those tires to at least 70 mph on youtube without ballooning.
 
I'm going to experiment with fiberglass drywall tape and shoe goo on the inside of the tire.

The unmodified Phaltlyne clones balooned some but did not explode at full throttle on the bench though I was also using the equivalent RPM to the stock gearing I mentioned before (12t with a 2250kv motor). There are videos of people driving those tires to at least 70 mph on youtube without ballooning.
I used to use a band of fibre reinforced tape on my Savage tyres to prevent ballooning. It 100% helps. 👍

I'm not sure about the shoe goo. I know people use it on their body shells with drywall tape, but I think with tyres, just a band of reinforced adhesive would suffice.

Obviously my experience of doing this was with Nitro powered rigs that generate less RPM than our brushless machines, so I think it would still be possible to throw a tyre even with decent tape.

The problem of adding weight to the tyre is that it increases the centrifugal forces, so it's a bit of a catch 22.

My belted Jetko and fibre reinforced (MFT) Louise tyres have been good up to 70mph on my Kronos, but I'm yet to try belted off road tyres.
 
I think the issue here is unbanded tyres will explode on any surface if they're allowed to 'light up' and spin too much.

It's a shame in this example, as there's still plenty of meat left in them.
To be honest that was a brand new tire wheel factory set. I’d decided to throw a new set on the front where I’d bent a rim so that hurt even worse.
 
I'm going to experiment with fiberglass drywall tape and shoe goo on the inside of the tire.

The unmodified Phaltlyne clones balooned some but did not explode at full throttle on the bench though I was also using the equivalent RPM to the stock gearing I mentioned before (12t with a 2250kv motor). There are videos of people driving those tires to at least 70 mph on youtube without ballooning.
I am a speed guy, can’t help myself held my 8sec 1/4mile drag race license still have a big bore muzzy ZX12 with a 100 wet shot of giggle gas in the shed. I enjoy all aspects handling, jumping but love to make some speed runs also. Why I’m interested in tires even the new Spark ones on dirt yesterday I could see balloon with my crappy eye sight. Would belted tires for off road help then belted on road for speed runs be something I’d want??
 
I'm not sure about the shoe goo. I know people use it on their body shells with drywall tape, but I think with tyres, just a band of reinforced adhesive would suffice.

Obviously my experience of doing this was with Nitro powered rigs that generate less RPM than our brushless machines, so I think it would still be possible to throw a tyre even with decent tape.
I worry that adhesive tape could rip away from the inside of the tire ruining it. Fiberglass drywall tape is very light and you'd only need to brush on a thin layer of shoe goo over it which wouldn't add much weight. And shoe goo makes a ridiculously strong bond with rubber.
 
I worry that adhesive tape could rip away from the inside of the tire ruining it. Fiberglass drywall tape is very light and you'd only need to brush on a thin layer of shoe goo over it which wouldn't add much weight. And shoe goo makes a ridiculously strong bond with rubber.
The idea is that the tape holds the tyre while it rotates. Obviously there will still be a limit where the tyre leaves the rim - but it won't be the tape that does the damage - but where portions of the tyre are still bonded to the wheel, whilst other parts depart company. The rubber rips.

The fact that the tape is nice and light is desirable.

If there isn't a 'need' for shoe goo, then there's no need for a thin coat either. 🤔

It's an idea KT started, but I don't see how it helps. It's the reinforcement within the tape that helps the tyre maintain it's shape and prevent ballooning - not the shoe goo. All that would do is add more mass to the tyre, which would make the forces the tape have to hold up against even greater - d'ya get me?

You'd be better off ascertaining the tape that can hold off the greatest centrifugal force, rather than 'gacking up' the inside of your tyres. 👍
 
The idea is that the tape holds the tyre while it rotates. Obviously there will still be a limit where the tyre leaves the rim - but it won't be the tape that does the damage - but where portions of the tyre are still bonded to the wheel, whilst other parts depart company. The rubber rips.

The fact that the tape is nice and light is desirable.

If there isn't a 'need' for shoe goo, then there's no need for a thin coat either. 🤔

It's an idea KT started, but I don't see how it helps. It's the reinforcement within the tape that helps the tyre maintain it's shape and prevent ballooning - not the shoe goo. All that would do is add more mass to the tyre, which would make the forces the tape have to hold up against even greater - d'ya get me?

You'd be better off ascertaining the tape that can hold off the greatest centrifugal force, rather than 'gacking up' the inside of your tyres. 👍
The rubber can still balloon outwards if it's not adhered to the tape, and the point of the fiberglass tape is to prevent it from ballooning. Fiberglass mesh drywall tape is extremely light and ridiculously strong and will not stretch *at all*, but the adhesive is weak as it's only meant to hold the tape in place while you work which is what the shoe goo is for.

The tape is an open mesh of fiberglass strands, you stick it down and then brush an adhesive over it it and it will penetrate the mesh and glue it to the inside of the tire.

This is an example of the tape I am talking about: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Self-Adhesive-Fiberglass-Sheetrock-Strengthening/dp/B0DY1NSP22

EDIT though I can get it way cheaper from the local hardware store
 
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During a race in 2004, in the open practice round, I had a pair of 'specially prepared' 40 series bowties on 'velocity' wheels at the front - with zero ballooning - and comedy stock donuts at the rear. 🤣

In this shot, my Ported S25 powered rig can be seen taking the pass on the inside of the next right hander, against a modified, ported picco powered Purple People Eater Savage.

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In complete contrast, note these prepared pink turbo rat tyres on my RB WS7 (prepared by Stan Crompton) powered Mugen can be seen clearing this table top with zero ballooning.

For getting around a track quickly, you want consistent tyres. Ballooning isn't useful.

For bashing, ballooning is quite helpful for air control and back flips - within reason. So it all depends what you're after.

Personally, I like driveability and consistency in my rigs and I tend not to do bonkers 'to the moon' stuff.

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But I drive all my rigs at ridiculously high speeds for extended periods of time. I also like trying 0-60mph times. With my T2E - no driver aids or gyros.

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If people want to get the best out of their tyres, it's essential to balance the wheels - especially for speed running.

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I use a mixture of these 2.5g weights and blue tack to get them spot on with the least amount of mess.

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The rubber can still balloon outwards if it's not adhered to the tape, and the point of the fiberglass tape is to prevent it from ballooning. Fiberglass mesh drywall tape is extremely light and ridiculously strong and will not stretch *at all*, but the adhesive is weak as it's only meant to hold the tape in place while you work which is what the shoe goo is for.

The tape is an open mesh of fiberglass strands, you stick it down and then brush an adhesive over it it and it will penetrate the mesh and glue it to the inside of the tire.

This is an example of the tape I am talking about: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Self-Adhesive-Fiberglass-Sheetrock-Strengthening/dp/B0DY1NSP22

EDIT though I can get it way cheaper from the local hardware store

Ultimately if you feel the need to shoe goo your tyres in addition to using drywall tape - that's up to you.

I strongly advise against it.

I'm not advocating the use of drywall tape inside of tyres either. That's generally what's used for reinforcement of lexan bodies, along with shoe goo.

For tyres, what I've had success with is high quality gaffa tape or gorilla tape, on degreased tyres. It generally doesn't separate from the rubber tyre like you're suggesting - unless it gets wet. But then I generally cover my wheel vents when it's damp.

Ultimately, unless you buy proper belted (much heavier) tyres, they will reach a limit and separate from the rim - especially on 6S (or higher) brushless - and when they do, they tear up into pieces.
 
For tyres, what I've had success with is high quality gaffa tape or gorilla tape, on degreased tyres. It generally doesn't separate from the rubber tyre like you're suggesting - unless it gets wet. But then I generally cover my wheel vents when it's damp.
I vent my tires on the outside so that won't work for me.
 
I vent my tires on the outside so that won't work for me.
The issue with venting tyres is that it lets water in to begin with - which soaks your tyre inserts. I often hear people say - it allows water to escape.

But to me, that's a bit like leaving your front door open and stating that it helps let all the burglars out. 🤣😝

Basically in Wales, because we have so much liquid sunshine, I'd never get to run with holes in my tyres.

It's different for those in much warmer climes.
 
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