Kagama Sketer or Kagama 4S

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I would go with the Kagama. It's a newer generation with more updated engineering. I think you'd be good with either, but after owning and upgrading a Sketer, I would lean towards the Kagama. Either way, good luck, and let us know how things go!
 
I have the Sketer and its a tank, flies and drives well. Stock electronics were too slow for me though so needed to upgrade to a Max8 running on 4s.

I guess the Kagama 4 would be lighter so you'd get better performance with the stock electronics.

I would go with the Kagama. It's a newer generation with more updated engineering. I think you'd be good with either, but after owning and upgrading a Sketer, I would lean towards the Kagama. Either way, good luck, and let us know how things go!

Did you not you not get on well with your Sketer? Did you need many upgrades?
 
Did you not you not get on well with your Sketer? Did you need many upgrades?

It's okay. I put on the wide kit and upgraded it to 6S electronics. It's a good car, but I would've been better off putting that much $$ into a true 6S rig. Oh well, LOL. I broke a turnbuckle last time I bashed it, but have replacement parts on the way. I'll get her up and running again, probably next weekend.
 
It's okay. I put on the wide kit and upgraded it to 6S electronics. It's a good car, but I would've been better off putting that much $$ into a true 6S rig. Oh well, LOL. I broke a turnbuckle last time I bashed it, but have replacement parts on the way. I'll get her up and running again, probably next weekend.

Ah OK. I put a 6s esc in mine and a 49t spur running 4s and now she flies. I've only broken a wheel hub from a bad landing... pretty tough car too
 
Sketer's electronics are a bit tiny laggy during launch!
 
Sketer's electronics are a bit tiny laggy during launch!
And for months (at least) a painted bodyshell is out of stock :/
 
Any of you guys having issues with your rear driveshafts binding? Or causing vibrations?
 
One of the YouTubers highlighted the binding, but fixed it by winding in the droop screws to reduce the articulation.
His driveshafts were rubbing the inside of the cup and the slot. Seemed to fix it.
 
One of the YouTubers highlighted the binding, but fixed it by winding in the droop screws to reduce the articulation.
His driveshafts were rubbing the inside of the cup and the slot. Seemed to fix it.
Thanks. There was a new, somewhat combative member posting all manner of BS on another thread. Thought you guys might be in a better position to assist, but on reflection - don't bother. 🤣

This clown was posting BS then editing their posts after the fact. Total tool. AFAIK, once they were called out, they wanted to know how to delete their membership.

2 words: Good Riddance. 😝👍
 
Thanks. There was a new, somewhat combative member posting all manner of BS on another thread. Thought you guys might be in a better position to assist, but on reflection - don't bother. 🤣

This clown was posting BS then editing their posts after the fact. Total tool. AFAIK, once they were called out, they wanted to know how to delete their membership.

2 words: Good Riddance. 😝👍
Again??? 😂
 
Oh, that thread!
that-escalated-quickly-300x300.webp
 
Yes - that one! What a total tool. 😅🙄

The one where one problem was replaced by a new problem of the owner's own making - then: blame Team Corally.

The whole car is wrong. The geometry is wrong. Longer front links give more negative camber - yada yada - followed by editing posts after the fact. 🤣

Once captain blame could be arsed to post a video, it was patently obvious his rear CVDs (for another rig) were too long. Yet in his view, it was a geometry issue. Mmmm.

Well, if your driveshafts are as far in as they can possibly go at full droop, the matter is not solved as you compress the suspension, or reduce droop - for obvious reasons. (The hypotenuse being longer than the base).

It did however bring up the subject of driveshaft phasing, which is rarely discussed on this forum, so at least some good came of it.
 
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