Asuga Stub axle issue

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I saw the GPM cvd's too, from what I've seen, the Sketer uses the standard buggy length cvd shafts. So too short for the Asuga, but the stub axles should be the same for all TC 6s buggies.
 
I will be ordering the GPM ones for my Syncro 4 when ever they get worn. The Syncro 4 drive shafts have been bullet proof like the rest of the buggy, had it since May last year so the theory that Team Corally have bad batches of kit from time to time rings true. I know it happens just a shame its putting a dent in the good name of these otherwise brilliant RCs :confused:

Hope they get it sorted or I'll be getting a Arrma notorious 6s v6 to get my bonkers 6s fix :p
 
Partydaz said:
Which website is that from ?.

I have seen the GPM ones but they are for the Sketer I believe, The stub axle should be the same dunno about if the drive shaft is the correct length. GPM is good stuff from the bits I have had and its all drive line stuff and its holding up brilliantly :D.
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AliExpress
Partydaz said:
Which website is that from ?.

I have seen the GPM ones but they are for the Sketer I believe, The stub axle should be the same dunno about if the drive shaft is the correct length. GPM is good stuff from the bits I have had and it’s all drive line stuff and it’s holding up brilliantly :D.
Click to expand...
AliExpress might be listed as sketer but be useable on all other swb vehicles. Only 3 sizes really swb vehicles ( sketer, radix, spark, Jambo, synchro4 etc) lwb vehicles ( Kronos, kagama, muraco, shogun etc) and Asuga class on its own different to the rest.
 
Can someone provide the measurements of the Skeeter stub axle?
 
Off topic. Anyone have any tricks for removing the outer trace of a broken bearing from a motor?
 
You could drill a hole to access it from the backside. Seal it back up with tape or sealant afterwards.
 
Yeah it's open. It's in there good. I tried heat, tried freezing it. Tried tapping with with tap and die. Not having any luck. I might try drilling next
 
Quick update on the heat shrink mod after 15 packs its still holding up no lost / snapped CVD pins.

Before I went out with last 5 packs I finally adjusted the droop screws. Seems they are set at showing 4 threads on the droop screw... dunno what the proper way is of telling droop settings :LOL:, I got the settings off two droop screws as the other two seemed a bit off showing 4 threads and seemed to sit little lower than the others, the front battery side which was snapping was one of the droop screws I adjusted.

Also tightened up the end points set to left = 97 & Right = 100 ( ends points set just after wheels move a tiny bit ) the bloody thing turns so sharp now, handles even better than when I first had it. I have added the lee spring servo saver I found on here thanks guys :) and a beefy 80kg servo so that all adds up to a fantastic handling truck.

I hope any of these tips help y'all (y)
 
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Partydaz said:
Quick update on the heat shrink mod after 15 packs its still holding up no lost / snapped CVD pins.

Before I went out with last 5 packs I finally adjusted the droop screws. Seems they are set at showing 4 threads on the droop screw... dunno what the proper way is of telling droop settings :LOL:, I got the settings off two droop screws as the other two seemed a bit off showing 4 threads and seemed to sit little lower than the others, the front battery side which was snapping was one of the droop screws I adjusted.

Also tightened up the end points set to left = 97 & Right = 100 ( ends points set just after wheels move a tiny bit ) the bloody thing turns so sharp now, handles even better than when I first had it. I have added the lee spring servo saver I found on here thanks guys :) and a beefy 80kg servo so that all adds up to a fantastic handling truck.

I hope any of these tips help y'all (y)
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Nice job! The devil is in the detail. 😎

I used to use heat shrink to ensure pins in my CVD's used to stay out. I also file/grind flats on the pins for the grub screws to mate - but caution the pins are very hard. Note the Delrin pin cushions. Our rigs should 100% have these.

cvds.webp


Lee Spring makes an enormous difference. 👍 No point having a high torque servo without it TBH.

Setting droop really helps prevent your shocks from breaking.

To avoid chassis gouging, I highly recommend titanium domed droop screws. The ones I use are by Avid.

1000029542.webp


I set the droop to ensure the down travel rests on the droop screw before the shock reaches maximum extension. 👍
 
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