Asuga Stub axle issue

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FWIW, Mojove 6s upper front arms fit the Asuga. The Arrma driveshafts fit perfectly in the TC spring steel diff input cups too.👌

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Here. The pin hole is ripped on both.

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I see. What’s the cvd shaft look like? Beat up too? I have to say TC has had some QC issues in the past, and they’re not very forthcoming about it either IMO.
Could be a bad batch, seen it before.
I did a bit of searching for TC CVD upgrades and didn’t find much. Tells me this isn’t common, which makes me think they have a bad batch.
There’s almost certainly a stub axle on the market for something else that would fit, problem is finding it. Manufacturers almost never give the specs you need to find it though sadly. I wonder if you could use the Typhon 6s hubs and stubs? The pivot ball thread size is the same between TC and Arrma.
 
The rest of the driveshaft looks new. I replaced them in the beginning of last year when this happened before. So they're not used much, and I don't drive RC in the summer since I live in Florida. Too hot.
 
You're a gent Knowair 💯
Thanks brother! Just trying to help.
I was thinking, and wondered WTH is burning? LOL.
The way those holes in the stub axles are hogged out, I bet they didn't get tempered correctly or something? Like the pins were just slapping around till they got ejected? Assuming they didn't break apart..
I see that type of wear on my Kaiju stub axles, I just chalked it up to inferior materials. What's nice about those though is each stub axle has 2 sets of holes, so when the first st get hogged out I just rotate the cvd shaft 90 degrees and reinstall. I suppose there's a possibility the Redcat stubs could fit, but doubt the quality is any better. Pretty sure the Kaiju uses the same size hub bearings as TC, 8x16mm IIRC.
Sucks that the parts aren't sold separately..
 
Most any 1/8 scale is 8mm diameter. The one thing that can throw it off is pin diameter(s). They can vary from brand to brand, but as long as you’re willing to do some drilling and or shimming I believe those can work. If the axle is a little longer/shorter no big deal.
Also Jenny’s RC can be quite useful in looking up part numbers and specs, just try to cross reference from another source before you buy.
 
The location of the pin that holds the Hex is the biggest restriction so far. I've tried Traxxas sledge stubs and they fit, but the hex can't mount. I tried Arrma stub, but it uses a bearing to hold the CVD pin in. I like the look of that HB stub, though.
 
Yeah, only way the Arrma stub would work is with Arrma hubs too.
 
Was going ask the same thing about these CVDs as my Kagama has started to it :confused:. I will tell you a tale of what I have done so far to see if this can help us along fixing this :)

Lost / broke two pins so far rest of CVD still intact, barrel still in the stub axle and spring still in place. Only happens on the battery side so far, maybe it is faulty batch of stub axles :rolleyes:. I say lost or snapped because as of yet I have not found the pins around the track.

I did check the inside of the stub axle after the first snap and the inside seemed ok but on the outside one of the holes on the stub axle had a burr on the lip, looks like the pin had slipped out and got caught on exiting the stub axle causing the burr.

I have filed the burr down so the spring now sits flush again, fitted new CVD pin and it happened again lost / snapped pin.

Found some hardened steel pins same dimensions as original CVD pin and popped that in, then I have put heat shrink around the stub axle collar to hold the spring in place to stop the pin falling out ( if that is the case ).

So far after 5 packs its been ok but I did set the end points further back than it normally runs, think its 95is left and right but was running in the mid 70s and it handled like crap so put it back up and going try this weekend see if it still holds up.

Parts tried because that's what I got as Team Corally don't sell the spare parts for the CVDs

Traxxas Revo 2.0 Driveshaft rebuild kit : - barrels fit in the drive shaft end but pin is 3mm thick so not a drop in unless drill out the stub axle

Traxxas UDR : - Driveshaft rebuild kit : - I think both the barrels and pins don't fit, barrels too small and pins too long

I will double check these over the weekend as I tried these rebuild kits while full of cold over Christmas so I could not be remembering it correctly 😅.

Going adjust the droop as well seeing how that seems to help in some cases , it does ride a bit to high for my liking away.

If this CVD problem can be fixed this truck will be a beast, Love it to bits but these CVDs 😝
 
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This what I did with the heat shrink..

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Nice! I’m pretty convinced TC has a QC issue going on. Hopefully it will work itself out once they burn through the defective parts, sucks, but is what it is. Poop happens..
All this has me wondering what my cvd’s actually look like on my Kronos. It has been run on 4s most of the time, that likely has helped. The Kronos is in a state of disrepair currently. Needs an overhaul, but it’s not at the top of my favorites list TBH. I’ve been putting my money into the Arrma’s mostly.
 
Haven’t tried them myself but there is other driveshafts/Cvd could try.
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Nice! I’m pretty convinced TC has a QC issue going on. Hopefully it will work itself out once they burn through the defective parts, sucks, but is what it is. Poop happens..
All this has me wondering what my cvd’s actually look like on my Kronos. It has been run on 4s most of the time, that likely has helped. The Kronos is in a state of disrepair currently. Needs an overhaul, but it’s not at the top of my favorites list TBH. I’ve been putting my money into the Arrma’s mostly.
 
Which website is that from ?.

I have seen the GPM ones but they are for the Sketer I believe, The stub axle should be the same dunno about if the drive shaft is the correct length. GPM is good stuff from the bits I have had and its all drive line stuff and its holding up brilliantly :D.

Haven’t tried them myself but there is other driveshafts/Cvd could try.
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