Kagama ADU Racing steering hubs

[Trucking in space]

I like ADU parts but this one has not been good. The problem is the hex head cutout on the round insert pieces that hold the pillow balls in.
I broke my CVD, so I had to disassemble down to the pillow balls. The top insert came out fine. It was tight. The bottom insert stripped out COMPLETELY after 1 rotations. Now it's stuck inside, and the ball end is loose, so I can't even just say "f it" and drive with a stuck insert.
So I wasted $35 on the steering hubs and I also have to buy a new ball joint, because it's stuck.
Tried to cut a slit in it and my Dremel spewed out smoke.
I heated the whole d**n piece in boiling water for 15 minutes to loosen the thread locker. I used a little too much LocTite gel because I'm a noob.
I dunno. Maybe it's a fine part and I just went ape spit with the LocTite? But I heated it up a lot !
Is threadlocker overdose the culprit or is the part badly designed?
I'm too green to understand, but I wanted to warn folks, since I've been championing ADU, I don't want to steer someone into a bad purchase.
I contacted ADU today, but who knows what they'll say. Maybe it's my fault.
Anyway, just wanted to put it out there, for what it's worth.

1st picture is the blown-out piece 2nd picture is how it's supposed to look.

 

[Nelson.81]

I like ADU parts but this one has not been good. The problem is the hex head cutout on the round insert pieces that hold the pillow balls in.
I broke my CVD, so I had to disassemble down to the pillow balls. The top insert came out fine. It was tight. The bottom insert stripped out COMPLETELY after 1 rotations. Now it's stuck inside, and the ball end is loose, so I can't even just say "f it" and drive with a stuck insert.
So I wasted $35 on the steering hubs and I also have to buy a new ball joint, because it's stuck.
Tried to cut a slit in it and my Dremel spewed out smoke.
I heated the whole d**n piece in boiling water for 15 minutes to loosen the thread locker. I used a little too much LocTite gel because I'm a noob.
I dunno. Maybe it's a fine part and I just went ape spit with the LocTite? But I heated it up a lot !
Is threadlocker overdose the culprit or is the part badly designed?
I'm too green to understand, but I wanted to warn folks, since I've been championing ADU, I don't want to steer someone into a bad purchase.
I contacted ADU today, but who knows what they'll say. Maybe it's my fault.
Anyway, just wanted to put it out there, for what it's worth.

1st picture is the blown-out piece 2nd picture is how it's supposed to look.

View attachment 7581

View attachment 7582

Too much thread lock probably the issue, personally I only use it on grub screws for pinions & even then I apply a tiny amount. Thread lock is used just to stop screw/nut etc coming loose your not trying to permanently fix it in place, people go way ott with the stuff. I don’t think every nut bolt needs thread lock, in fact I’d rather have a screw come loose or loose it than have to deal with stripped or stuck screws. Anyway Live & learn If you have your stock hub you could use the insert from it if can remove this one I’m guessing it should fit, you’ve got enough of a slot you made with dremel I would try hitting with a hammer & chisel/screwdriver there see if can try and get it moving that way, or could try hammering in a bigger hex/allen key ain’t got nothing loose now.

 

[Glacialedge]

These are the pivot ball adjustment screws right? I don't think you ever want thread locker on those. I had this issue with the stock hubs when I rounded out a pillow ball adjustment screw as well. I ended up using a dremel to cut away the hub so I could get the pivot ball out. The error I was making was using a 3/16" hex instead of a 5 mm hex to adjust them. The 3/16" is too small and rounded it out.

 

[Atomic Skull]

They round out even with a 5mm hex, they even started rounding out with a Wera Hex Plus driver that supposedly helps prevent that with a wider contact area between the driver and the hex socket. It's just soft aluminum plus an very tight thread fitment to prevent the screw from backing out. I've discovered that Arrma 1/8 adjustment nuts will fit and I have a set of the Hot Racing version (which have delrin cups) coming to confirm it.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...um-delrin-cap-hub-nut-red-hraaon21n02/p650307

Instead of friction the Arrma screws use an looser (i.e. normal) fit and an O-ring to keep the thread from backing out, hopefully this will help.

I discovered that here, jump to 21:42 where he tries fitting the Arrma ball adjust screw in the Corally steering block:

(ignore his complaints the important thing is that the screws fit)

If they still round out my next step is to try the Mugen steel ones (I'll need to 3D print a stepped shim to adapt the Corally ball cups to the larger recess in the Mugen screw if it comes to that.)

 

[Atomic Skull]

You need to tap something into that rounded out hole to get it out, something splined that will grab the screw. Then nuke it hard with a heat gun and try to get the screw out while holding the piece with a leather glove to protect your hand. Bearings will need to be replaced after being cooked like that probably.

 

[Atomic Skull]

Just an FYI in case anyone else looks up "ADU steering hubs" and finds this thread, you aren't supposed to locktite the adjustment screws the captured O-ring on the back of the screw keeps it from backing out. Also you need to make sure to check the steering limits and ensure that the ball stem is not binding on the edges at the limits of the suspension because the hole is a rounded rectangle unlike the stock steering hubs. It appears that you still have a little more steering angle possible compared to the stock hubs though

EDIT: Also you will need some 0.2 and 0.3mm 8x10 shims to take out the play. wierdly thew shims have less of an effect if put on the inside of the hub on the CVD shaft than on the outside with under the wheel hub. I decided to put a very tiny bit of stick locktite
(not liquid) in one spot on the threads to provide some extra friction.