Kronos xtr truggy build

[Horatio]

Chassis is now being drilled, milled and sealed. I'm pleased with the edges - as good a finish as a DIYer could hope for...

Mirror like finish - reflecting my cutting board!

Really looking forward to lining stuff up and mounting things.

I really need some tidy counter sink bits. 6mm and 8mm should be good for M3 & M4 respectively.

 

[Nelson.81]

Suppose I should add an update to my own build page instead of other people’s. Last update I received corally solder iron, it made short work of xt90 connectors my cheap 100w iron wouldn’t do, corally iron Tomley rc approved he picked one up himself check his tomley2 channel.

Once installed I thought I would be good to go but initially thought I had a bad servo wouldn’t work disconnected from receiver plug back in worked problem was I had to do that each time I turned it on, changed receiver with another rc problem solved, ordered a couple more receivers. Then servo saver had worked itself loose cutting spring I think it was gripping but helping unwind it. Tightened took for a run discovered cutting the spring previously as thought was too tight was bad idea, now too soft on grass no steering. Ordered more springs.

Then ordered new phase1 rc bumper, put it together then when installed thought the upgraded abcd blocks where fouling it. Started to grind a little off it then the penny dropped there was 2 extra long screws came with it couldn’t figure out what they where for when put it together, turns out you need to remove the screws through the hinge pin holder and they screw through and attach to it, you need piece the bumper together on the rig to install it basically whoops thankfully didn’t grind to much away.

Also ordered adu battery tray, agfrc servo horn vp pro wing and scorched rc titanium shafts. These all arrived now hopefully get time get at it over the wkend maybe a little late night wrenching tonight.

First run I overheated motor after about 5mins threw 22t/46 at it then checked gearing after realised this good for near 100mph not bashing gearing, just breaking the motor in . Second run dropped down to 18t still got hot but probably down too me not glueing pinion and it backing into motor mount, bloody noob mistake just being lazy. 3rd run fan mount & fans arrived & down to 16t no issues apart from previously mentioned steering issues. In the wet max could achieve 53mph on back wheels leaving rooster tails, need to dial suspension in apart from doing oil in shocks and hard springs hadn’t adjusted ride height or droop from stock on larger wheels. Upgraded fans to 40mm also now, pulled front upper brace support off allowing me run body little lower at front, had to do little cable management get it all snug under body, if was to change anything Kraton/outcast body mounts at front might work bit better as can tilt a little bit just need push down a little with corally ones get pins in.

Think that’s kinda the order things atm, driveshafts, battery tray, wing , servo horn, body, dial suspension in, done hopefully

 

[Nelson.81]

Titanium shafts fitted, Long story short the scorched front driveshaft doesn’t fit, don’t try it. The rear does but you need to remove the rear 7075 brace to install it as can’t get it in from above with it in place. To remove rear brace battery tray out, chassis stiffener between 7075 braces out, rear plastic support brace out, metal bar between 3 braces out then you can get your 7075 brace out, and install the titanium shaft. You can then leave the brace out, or if run with it you’ll need to take out everything above mentioned every time you want to take diff out, or can modify brace as I have this will allow to get shaft in from above with no issues. The shaft also rubbed a little on brace can see wear and that was only spinning by hand. Also robbed my buggy of it Tworks front titanium driveshaft and installed it I’ll get another for buggy some point.

ADU battery tray also installed, esc mounting slightly different to corally battery tray esc screw holes line up on Hobbywing but max 6 hits 7075 brace if use them so just 3M taped esc in place.

Set ride height/droop just eyeballed toe camber for now but test drive in work in the dark at 5am found a metal girder & broke an arm, . Lucky just arm not insert but was only on 4s storage charge so might saved it from being worse, was handling sweet until it wasn’t & hit 40mph. Anyway new arms ordered could have gone to breakers but ordered from corally as don’t like adu battery straps cheap so corally ones on way with new arms. Wheels tires wanted came back in stock so they on the way too, hoping it all might be here by tomorrow . And finally starting on the bodyshell couple layers mask added, started light building it up, no spray gun so paint brush will have to do, think I’ll add 1 more layer then time to do some doodling and unleash my inner banksy. Is that the finish line I can almost see .

 

[Nelson.81]

1 more layer after this maybe 2 & happy Halloween to ya

 

[Horatio]

Yeah - the front driveshaft is tricky for me, too. Even though I don't have bracing - because my center diff is slightly further forwards - access from the top is not working out. I'm sure there's a solution, but I haven't given it enough thought yet.

 

[Nelson.81]

Yeah - the front driveshaft is tricky for me, too. Even though I don't have bracing - because my center diff is slightly further forwards - access from the top is not working out. I'm sure there's a solution, but I haven't given it enough thought yet.

Could always go this route but they take a month to arrive

https://www.rc-tworks.com/search?q=titanium+driveshaft+

 

[Jeo79]

Well this is going to be fun.....

This was me today reading through this build. What an epic build I thought that bruggy body was the Sledge Jconcepts body then realised it was from the Sworkx buggy. Great build @Nelson.81, it's given me loads of ideas on how to spend more money I don't have hahahaha

 

[Horatio]

This was me today reading through this build. What an epic build I thought that bruggy body was the Sledge Jconcepts body then realised it was from the Sworkx buggy. Great build @Nelson.81, it's given me loads of ideas on how to spend more money I don't have hahahaha

The body is a LFR Bruggy Body. This one here is for the Hot Bodies D8T.

Like my one here on the S35 T2E:

It's better looking than the 'Speed Rhinoceros' truck body, which came out after all competive racers used Bruggy bodies.

It seems Truggy classes have gone full circle, back to their buggy roots!

 

[Nelson.81]

The body is a LFR Bruggy Body. This one here is for the Hot Bodies D8T.

Like my one here on the S35 T2E:

View attachment 7286
It's better looking than the 'Speed Rhinoceros' truck body, which came out after all competive racers used Bruggy bodies.

It seems Truggy classes have gone full circle, back to their buggy roots!

I initially was going to get an LFR Bruggy body but shipping from U.S was more than the body & there Europe distributor didn’t ship to my location. I think r.p.r.c distribution maybe selling LFR bodies now.
My body is the sworkz falcon I Bruggy body an option part for the s35t2e nearly identical to the LFR body.

https://answer-rc.com/sworkz-s35-t2...-body-shell-set-pre-cut-90-4710345176822.html

 

[Horatio]

I initially was going to get an LFR Bruggy body but shipping from U.S was more than the body & there Europe distributor didn’t ship to my location. I think r.p.r.c distribution maybe selling LFR bodies now.
My body is the sworkz falcon I Bruggy body an option part for the s35t2e nearly identical to the LFR body.

https://answer-rc.com/sworkz-s35-t2...-body-shell-set-pre-cut-90-4710345176822.html

Ah - the falcon is less angled at the Front - I see. My bad!

 

[Horatio]

Either way - they're infinitely better looking than the Tekno 'Tug Boat' Bruggy body!

 

[Nelson.81]

Either way - they're infinitely better looking than the Tekno 'Tug Boat' Bruggy body!

The tekno I hated it originally but started to grow on me lately maybe they’ll change it up on the new ET48 , vp pro also do Bruggy body that is very slimline would prob need to run shorty battery packs with it.

 

[Jeo79]

The tekno I hated it originally but started to grow on me lately maybe they’ll change it up on the new ET48 , vp pro also do Bruggy body that is very slimline would prob need to run shorty battery packs with it.

I'm not a racer so the slightly square and ugly ET48 2.0 body put me off getting the truggy, although it's grown on me now. I opted for the MT410. May get the new ET48 when it arrives or a 1/8 MT if they bring one out.

 

[Nelson.81]

Haven’t look near the Kronos lately weather gone to & gravel area I had to run in under construction now & playing fields mud bath atm so no rush with it really but new arms, battery straps arrived during wk & tires today so everything here to finish it off now but working all wkend so be next week sometime before get to it. Gone with the method rc terraforms, pretty light on the scales for belted, never tried them before we’ll see how they do.

 

[Nelson.81]

Another couple bits for it, I’ll drill shock towers for standoffs another time too late be doing that tonight.

 

[Horatio]

Another couple bits for it, I’ll drill shock towers for standoffs another time too late be doing that tonight.

View attachment 7441

View attachment 7442

Scorched titanium standoffs use M5 all the way through. Towers don't need drilling for these. Obviously, they are far stronger than the stock items (which apparently everyone else seems to break!).

You do however need to fettle the nylon plastic hats to fit, but they can very carefully be reemed out to fit.

I now use these on my Carbon towers.

Scorched stuff is the bomb. The M2C carbon towers are rather nice, too. Sharpied and sealed, they should hold up nicely and they're very light.

 

[Nelson.81]

Because my shock towers are exposed I haven’t gone for carbon version as tempted as I am, but I’m probably restricted to running on grass mainly now so you never know maybe in the future I’ll add them too. Gearboxes & hubs next on hit list to do but don’t see me splashing on those this side Xmas.

 

[Nelson.81]

Some more bits brighten things up. Vitavon cases look lovely but not perfect, screws holes been tapped a little too deep can see where it comes through further than should but not internal so won’t cause any issues, same on both cases. Don’t think I have shims to fit so will have to wait until get some before installing them.

 

[Jeo79]

Some more bits brighten things up. Vitavon cases look lovely but not perfect, screws holes been tapped a little too deep can see where it comes through further than should but not internal so won’t cause any issues, same on both cases. Don’t think I have shims to fit so will have to wait until get some before installing them.

View attachment 7731

Those are a thing of beauty!!!! Even the dogs impressed

How's the fitment with the diff, any shimming needed?

 

[Nelson.81]

Also some leds to install, I hate having wires running all over the place so don’t know if I’ll install the rears I bought, I’ve mountain bike leds think I’ll just fix 1 to rear & separate battery supply so no extra drain on Lipo with them. The front I’m going to try wire the set LEDs I’ve bought into 1 mountain bike leds circuit try run them off it attach circuit board to back shock tower maybe see how it goes, if not small led torch might get strapped in there or maybe just ditch the whole idea of lights lol. Also so thermal monitoring for motor to be installed, saw this done elsewhere so not claiming the idea I already sent mine into thermal on 1st run don’t really want to be repeating that too many times & running on grass my stuff gets hot, so this will help keep an eye on things easier. Some Lipo monitors too. Also metal tie rod for in between servo horn & servo saver it was bugging me the plastic one in between agfrc horn & gpm servo saver