Post your lipo batteries internal resistance values

[Horatio]

Check your batteries' internal resistance and post your results here.

Why bother? Because keeping an eye on these values gives you a good indication of when your lipos are nearing the end of their useful life.

Waiting til they start puffing up may result in a fire.

I'll start.

A - is a year old Onyx pack.
B - is a brand new Onyx pack.

The higher the resistance, the lower the performance. Eventually, the resistance builds to such an extent the pack gets hot very easily as it discharges.

A crystallised tendril can form between the anode and cathode and when this completes the circuit - the battery will fail spectacularly.

Internal resistance above 20mΩ may be a good indication of the end of the cell's life.

An ABC Fire extinguisher should be kept near any areas where Lipos are stored.

 

[Trucking in space]

I wish my charger let me see the resistance. It's a cheap Ovonic Mate 1

I'm halfway looking at getting a new charger. If I may be so bold to ask: how much was your charger ?
I only charge at 1c, but my current charger maxes out at 4.3 amps charging a 6s 8200 mAh pack, which is like 0.6C
I got a fix my truck first anyway, broke my first CVD.

 

[Horatio]

I wish my charger let me see the resistance. It's a cheap Ovonic Mate 1

I'm halfway looking at getting a new charger. If I may be so bold to ask: how much was your charger ?
I only charge at 1c, but my current charger maxes out at 4.3 amps charging a 6s 8200 mAh pack, which is like 0.6C
I got a fix my truck first anyway, broke my first CVD.

My Q200 is ideal for drone packs really. For bigger ones, it lacks the power to charge 6S packs quickly - but it's versatile and has great features. It's found online for about £120.

The Q200 Neo is the new version of it - it's about £130.

You'll find on 6S, 4.5A is about as high as the Q200 can go, but I live with it.

 

[KnowAir]

Okay.. here's mine.. almost ready.

My Q200 is ideal for drone packs really. For bigger ones, it lacks the power to charge 6S packs quickly - but it's versatile and has great features. It's found online for about £120.

The Q200 Neo is the new version of it - it's about £130.

You'll find on 6S, 4.5A is about as high as the Q200 can go, but I live with it.

I sorta have the opposite going on here, good charger, chit batteries.. LOL
I have a Hota S6, I believe it's capable of 15a dual, or 16a single battery. With my cheapo batts I never go past 1c anyway.

 

[Horatio]

Okay.. here's mine.. almost ready.

View attachment 7144

View attachment 7145


I sorta have the opposite going on here, good charger, chit batteries.. LOL
I have a Hota S6, I believe it's capable of 15a dual, or 16a single battery. With my cheapo batts I never go past 1c anyway.

Perhaps the internal resistance were slightly high to begin with anyway, so double it.....

Possibly.



Your rigs rip around your track and hoon around in the snow, and your stuff hasn't combusted lately, has it?

When would you call it and buy some more?

 

[KnowAir]

Okay, I'll admit it.. the above ir readings are from a pair of Zeee 4s 120c 7200mah batteries that I had bought last year to run in my Kraton 8s.
They started out fine, single digit ir readings, ran them in my Xmaxx for say a half dozen cycles without a problem. Then I installed them in the K8. Game over first run, LOL. Whenever I gave the K8 (stock, BTW) full throttle, the batteries would drop voltage and LVC would cut power..
Zeee warranted me easily enough, but wow, junk.
FWIW, I have run Spektrum 5000's as well as Socokin 6500's in the K8 many times over since then. No problems, short runtimes, but no issues from the other brands, including Turnigy from Hobbyking.

Perhaps the internal resistance were slightly high to begin with anyway, so double it.....

Possibly.



Your rigs rip around your track and hoon around in the snow, and your stuff hasn't combusted lately, has it?

When would you call it and buy some more?

LOL! Yeah brother, I'd agree with you, but these were only a week or two old!! I mean Zeee only accepts returns for 30 days here in US, and I did return within that window. Got a full refund.
For me, if ir's are double digits at full charge, they're toast. I may still use, but not for long.
Uncharged, double digits is acceptable, but as you can see in my pics above those Zeee's were nearly fully charged and still reading 30/40 ohms!!
I've had many, and still do, Zeee batts that have been great. I've learned to stay clear of any Zeee rated over 100c.. no bueno.

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Okay, I'll admit it.. the above ir readings are from a pair of Zeee 4s 120c 7200mah batteries that I had bought last year to run in my Kraton 8s.
They started out fine, single digit ir readings, ran them in my Xmaxx for say a half dozen cycles without a problem. Then I installed them in the K8. Game over first run, LOL. Whenever I gave the K8 (stock, BTW) full throttle, the batteries would drop voltage and LVC would cut power..
Zeee warranted me easily enough, but wow, junk.
FWIW, I have run Spektrum 5000's as well as Socokin 6500's in the K8 many times over since then. No problems, short runtimes, but no issues from the other brands, including Turnigy from Hobbyking.


LOL! Yeah brother, I'd agree with you, but these were only a week or two old!! I mean Zeee only accepts returns for 30 days here in US, and I did return within that window. Got a full refund.
For me, if ir's are double digits at full charge, they're toast. I may still use, but not for long.
Uncharged, double digits is acceptable, but as you can see in my pics above those Zeee's were nearly fully charged and still reading 30/40 ohms!!
I've had many, and still do, Zeee batts that have been great. I've learned to stay clear of any Zeee rated over 100c.. no bueno.

The positive: all cells have a pretty consistent IR
The not-so-positive: it’s pretty high!

 

[Horatio]

 

[KnowAir]

View attachment 7146

What would powdered sugar be needed for? LOL

 

[Horatio]

What would powdered sugar be needed for? LOL

To cut with this?

 

[samo975]

This thread is timely. I took my Kronos out for a run last weekend and it just stopped going . It was the first time I found a really open location that I could just let it rip. Had a ton of fun then it just stopped. I thought maybe I hit a thermal shut down. I have heard that the Kronos gets hot but that is usually with 6S and I am running 4S. So I gave it some time to cool off and then went ripping again. Stopped again. So I carried it back home . LVC didn’t cross my mind because I have literally never hit LVC before (they are pretty big 4S packs ). I have always been able to rip around and make it back home again.

Any way, I later found out I did in face hit LVC and I might have even damaged the battery because I kept running it . I have these gensacearespammers Advanced HV Lipo’s. I pushed the “health” button on the batter and it was flashing “Large cell voltage difference”. Uh oh!
I literally searched that night to try and find out what am acceptable IR value would be to see if I really did kill the battery.
After reading what you guys have posted…I think I am safe.
Here are my batteries what do you think?
I bought them about a year ago at the same time. I am using a D6 Pro charger.

 

[Horatio]

This thread is timely. I took my Kronos out for a run last weekend and it just stopped going . It was the first time I found a really open location that I could just let it rip. Had a ton of fun then it just stopped. I thought maybe I hit a thermal shut down. I have heard that the Kronos gets hot but that is usually with 6S and I am running 4S. So I gave it some time to cool off and then went ripping again. Stopped again. So I carried it back home . LVC didn’t cross my mind because I have literally never hit LVC before (they are pretty big 4S packs ). I have always been able to rip around and make it back home again. View attachment 7151
Any way, I later found out I did in face hit LVC and I might have even damaged the battery because I kept running it . I have these gensacearespammers Advanced HV Lipo’s. I pushed the “health” button on the batter and it was flashing “Large cell voltage difference”. Uh oh!
I literally searched that night to try and find out what am acceptable IR value would be to see if I really did kill the battery.
After reading what you guys have posted…I think I am safe.
Here are my batteries what do you think?
I bought them about a year ago at the same time. I am using a D6 Pro charger.

View attachment 7152

View attachment 7153

Your batteries.........they live!

 

[samo975]

Your batteries.........they live!

Yeah. It’s a good thing too. They are expensive! Don’t know if I could justify buying additional batteries after getting those .

 

[Horatio]

Yeah. It’s a good thing too. They are expensive! Don’t know if I could justify buying additional batteries after getting those .

Aren't they just! I baby mine, like you can imagine. In fact, I was really reluctant to get into brushless because of the whole 'Heli-gate' at home.

But, FPV drones necessitated lipos, so - I just ensured my lipos are balanced, never over discharged, never over heated, stored at a constant temperature, in a metal box, on a metal shelf, placed on concrete. In a bunker, on the moon.

In fairness, it's so easy to get complacent with lipos. But when they go - they properly go.

This horrendous fire caused millions of ££ worth of damage. It burned for 2 days back in 2021.

Guess what started it? An incorrectly recycled battery. They think it was a lithium ion battery, but it was almost certainly a lithium polymer battery discarded in a Blue Recycling bag.

Obviously it wasn't mine.

 

[KnowAir]

This thread is timely. I took my Kronos out for a run last weekend and it just stopped going . It was the first time I found a really open location that I could just let it rip. Had a ton of fun then it just stopped. I thought maybe I hit a thermal shut down. I have heard that the Kronos gets hot but that is usually with 6S and I am running 4S. So I gave it some time to cool off and then went ripping again. Stopped again. So I carried it back home . LVC didn’t cross my mind because I have literally never hit LVC before (they are pretty big 4S packs ). I have always been able to rip around and make it back home again. View attachment 7151
Any way, I later found out I did in face hit LVC and I might have even damaged the battery because I kept running it . I have these gensacearespammers Advanced HV Lipo’s. I pushed the “health” button on the batter and it was flashing “Large cell voltage difference”. Uh oh!
I literally searched that night to try and find out what am acceptable IR value would be to see if I really did kill the battery.
After reading what you guys have posted…I think I am safe.
Here are my batteries what do you think?
I bought them about a year ago at the same time. I am using a D6 Pro charger.

View attachment 7152

View attachment 7153

They look good IMO. The first looks a tad healthier than the second, but both are healthy.
The LVC is there to protect, as I'm sure you know, but I feel it would be difficult for you to actually harm your batteries so long as the LVC is active and set properly.
I find that as batteries get weak, they run for a shorter duration overall, but most notable is how quickly the esc will shut down completely after LVC is triggered. You will get a minute or two of limited power once LVC has been triggered in the esc, but when batteries get weak, the limited power operation will become shorter and shorter in duration. Eventually the esc will shut down immediately when LVC is triggered, with no "limited power" operation.
BTW, those Gens are indeed some pricey bits. I highly suggest you keep them at storage voltage whenever not in use for more than a day or two.

 

[Horatio]

I agree with what Knowair said.

I sometimes get the ESC to cut when I demand too many amps, pulling too high a ratio.

It's annoying, but better than a fire.

 

[KnowAir]

I agree with what Knowair said.

I sometimes get the ESC to cut when I demand too many amps, pulling too high a ratio.

It's annoying, but better than a fire.

Nothing will expose our batteries fitment/condition like full pulls in open spaces.. I can get away with cheap batteries running my backyard track, but if/when I get "out in the wild", I find my battery limitations pretty quickly.
That's what happened to the Zeee 4s I previously mentioned. Though that was just full pulls on pavement in stock trim with the K8S. Arrma specs 50c for it, yet the Zeee 120c 7.2ah couldn't keep up..

 

[samo975]

They look good IMO. The first looks a tad healthier than the second, but both are healthy.
The LVC is there to protect, as I'm sure you know, but I feel it would be difficult for you to actually harm your batteries so long as the LVC is active and set properly.
I find that as batteries get weak, they run for a shorter duration overall, but most notable is how quickly the esc will shut down completely after LVC is triggered. You will get a minute or two of limited power once LVC has been triggered in the esc, but when batteries get weak, the limited power operation will become shorter and shorter in duration. Eventually the esc will shut down immediately when LVC is triggered, with no "limited power" operation.
BTW, those Gens are indeed some pricey bits. I highly suggest you keep them at storage voltage whenever not in use for more than a day or two.

I used to fly drones too. So I was familiar with LiPo’s before getting into RC cars. But I would actively monitor the voltage on my goggles. And I baby my LiPos too. I would always try and land at or around storage voltage. I would fly within 30 minutes of charging and then return to storage voltage as soon as I finished and the batteries were room temp. I try to do the same with these for my Kronos. I charge them, drive to where I am going to use them and then by the time I get home I put them back on the D6 Pro for balancing and storage. They are never an hour at max or minimum charge.
It’s just this time I hit LVC. It surprised me I guess. There is just so much juice in those batteries that I never hit it before. Well now I know.
Also do either of you know what is the default LVC for the TC ESC?

 

[Horatio]

Nothing will expose our batteries fitment/condition like full pulls in open spaces.. I can get away with cheap batteries running my backyard track, but if/when I get "out in the wild", I find my battery limitations pretty quickly.
That's what happened to the Zeee 4s I previously mentioned. Though that was just full pulls on pavement in stock trim with the K8S. Arrma specs 50c for it, yet the Zeee 120c 7.2ah couldn't keep up..

Yes - because the C ratings they put on the packs are a work of fiction.

I've been very happy with my Gens and Onyx Graphene packs. They're hard cases, so hopefully should be well protected.

My packs now sit on a Carbon plate with neoprene foam.

 

[KnowAir]

I used to fly drones too. So I was familiar with LiPo’s before getting into RC cars. But I would actively monitor the voltage on my goggles. And I baby my LiPos too. I would always try and land at or around storage voltage. I would fly within 30 minutes of charging and then return to storage voltage as soon as I finished and the batteries were room temp. I try to do the same with these for my Kronos. I charge them, drive to where I am going to use them and then by the time I get home I put them back on the D6 Pro for balancing and storage. They are never an hour at max or minimum charge.
It’s just this time I hit LVC. It surprised me I guess. There is just so much juice in those batteries that I never hit it before. Well now I know.
Also do either of you know what is the default LVC for the TC ESC?

Should be in the manual. I don't recall but I set my junk to 3.2/3.4v. The bliss about cheap batteries is I don't care. Run em to lvc, then throw them in the freezer for 10 minutes. Rinse, repeat
Never flown an rc, I suppose flirting with LVC would be a different risk.