Kagama Upgraded CVDs ?

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Trucking in space

Trucking in space

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Broke my first CVD. No idea how, just driving on grass in a straight line on 6s. I can't even blame my Badlands because I only ran those 1 day and am regluing them so I put the stock tires back on.
I don't see anything from M2C or ADU Racing.
Anyone know of any beefier CVDs that would fit this truck ?
Thanks in advance.
 
I'm doing some stuff with my Kronos involving high speeds, but little in the way of anything torturous. Mine seem to be holding up OK since 2021 - I'm on the original ones. 👍

I dry lube my CVD joints.

I'm not a fan of letting them get 'gacked up' with grease mixed with grit and grime. It's better to run them un-lubed then to see them get worn out with a grinding paste.

I suppose CVD's have that obvious weak spot in the pin. We put crazy 6S power through them - it's amazing that they hold up.

What part broke? Or did they just fall apart/disassemble themselves?
 
KnowAir said:
Have you adjusted the steering endpoints? Too much angle on the CVD will ruin the party early.
I've yet to break a CVD on my 2021 Kronos XTR.
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I have a 70 KG servo which is maybe too much for the size ?
I can lower the BEC from 7.4 to 6 if that is too powerful servo for the truck size ?
Thanks for all the input. I've been away from keyboard with family.
 
Trucking in space said:
I have a 70 KG servo which is maybe too much for the size ?
I can lower the BEC from 7.4 to 6 if that is too powerful servo for the truck size ?
Thanks for all the input. I've been away from keyboard with family.
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Endpoints are important. The obvious danger of not setting them is magic smoke from the servo. Set your endpoints. 👍

There isn't really a need for 70kg servo in a 1/8th truck, but if you set your endpoints, it won't be an issue. Fun fact: when your servo reaches it's correct and proper endpoint, it isn't breaking anything. 💪😎

Usually when servos are high torque, it comes at the expense of speed from the servo. I'm running 45 kg servos - but they transit 60° in 0.08 second. It's good to have response.
 
Horatio said:
Endpoints are important. The obvious danger of not setting them is magic smoke from the servo. Set your endpoints. 👍

There isn't really a need for 70kg servo in a 1/8th truck, but if you set your endpoints, it won't be an issue. Fun fact: when your servo reaches it's correct and proper endpoint, it isn't breaking anything. 💪😎

Usually when servos are high torque, it comes at the expense of speed from the servo. I'm running 45 kg servos - but they transit 60° in 0.08 second. It's good to have response.
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Yeah, I wouldn't know anything about .08 second transit or even 45kg much less 70kg, LOL.
My 8s 1/5 Kraton only has about 60kg. TBH, I'm fine with it. Would appreciate more but..$$$
What I was thinking in regards to steering endpoint adjustment was in regards to making sure the CVD max angles aren't being surpassed at full steering lock. I have seen many a 4x4 rc where the endpoints aren't set correctly and when the CVD max angle is exceeded at full steer, we can see the deflection at the wheel as it rotates and cvds bind. The CVD's may be getting damaged from this.
 
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Worth a check, but I believe on the corally cars the ackerman plate will hit the diff case way before the cvd locks.

I also had a dogbone with a shifted pin. After bashing I noticed my wheel binding. Basically my dogbone pin just removed part of the shock tower. Crazy what less then 1/4th of the power of our motors can do. Was on 4s aswell and I didn't even notice anything.
 
KnowAir said:
Yeah, I wouldn't know anything about .08 second transit or even 45kg much less 70kg, LOL.
My 8s 1/5 Kraton only has about 60kg. TBH, I'm fine with it. Would appreciate more but..$$$
What I was thinking in regards to steering endpoint adjustment was in regards to making sure the CVD max angles aren't being surpassed at full steering lock. I have seen many a 4x4 rc where the endpoints aren't set correctly and when the CVD max angle is exceeded at full steer, we can see the deflection at the wheel as it rotates and cvds bind. The CVD's may be getting damaged from this.
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100% setting endpoints will also stop the servo pushing past the healthy limits of the driveshafts. Ideally, this is something people do before anything breaks.

Very often, identical servos - but with different gears - will come in a speed version or a torque version. Prices are usually the same - as it's just the ratios that are different.

I'm amazed that universal joint drive shafts are supplied with 6S basher rigs. But my XTR front driveshafts have been excellent.👌
 
Hello, one general question since I wasn't able to find any information. Are there CVDs for the rear axle of the Kagama available? TC offers rear CVDs but they are not mentioned in the Kagama manual and on the websites they just suit to the Kronos (compatible with Kagama?)

Thank you and best regards
Mario
 
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Trucking in space said:
Broke my first CVD. No idea how, just driving on grass in a straight line on 6s. I can't even blame my Badlands because I only ran those 1 day and am regluing them so I put the stock tires back on.
I don't see anything from M2C or ADU Racing.
Anyone know of any beefier CVDs that would fit this truck ?
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
I agree with Knowair adjust your end points, 6S on grass is a killer for CVD’s on full lock. Strange though how you say this happened in a straight line. As for gluing tyres. I use Gorilla super glue. It’s not let me down yet. You have to be careful with it as it’s thicker than tyre glue so it doesn’t run round the rim as easily. I bust two pre glued Badlands on my Python on their first run. Not had any issues since
 
I believe that the new (red) CVDs have a thicker wall where the pin is because they no longer need to have a groove for a retaining clip in that location as the pin is now held in by the red external cup that is press fit over the drive cup.
 
Atomic Skull said:
I believe that the new (red) CVDs have a thicker wall where the pin is because they no longer need to have a groove for a retaining clip in that location as the pin is now held in by the red external cup that is press fit over the drive cup.
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Hi. Yes, I. Have had the new Kagama LE for a few weeks now, it comes with the red capped CVD’s that you mention. In a spares pack so it comes with the original ones and these capped ones for you to fit, which I have done. It also comes with a pair of spare caps and new pins so you can upgrade the original ones. The pins are longer and thicker than the ones fitted as standard. I have not tried to upgrade these so I don’t know of any issues with these. As mentioned in a previous thread it is hugely upgraded. My only fault is the tyres are too soft.
 
chipster said:
Hi. Yes, I. Have had the new Kagama LE for a few weeks now, it comes with the red capped CVD’s that you mention. In a spares pack so it comes with the original ones and these capped ones for you to fit, which I have done. It also comes with a pair of spare caps and new pins so you can upgrade the original ones. The pins are longer and thicker than the ones fitted as standard. I have not tried to upgrade these so I don’t know of any issues with these. As mentioned in a previous thread it is hugely upgraded. My only fault is the tyres are too soft.
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I mean the wall the the drive cup itself, the originals have a groove there for the clip that holds the pin so the sidewall is thinner there. Even if you upgrade them with the rebuild kit the holes in the drive cup for the pin are still weak and can elongate over time on 6S. They will never be as strong as the new version though with the longer pins it's less likely to come out if the hole starts to wallow out as happened on my Asuga's CVD.
 
Atomic Skull said:
I mean the wall the the drive cup itself, the originals have a groove there for the clip that holds the pin so the sidewall is thinner there. Even if you upgrade them with the rebuild kit the holes in the drive cup for the pin are still weak and can elongate over time on 6S. They will never be as strong as the new version though with the longer pins it's less likely to come out if the hole starts to wallow out as happened on my Asuga's CV
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I have never had any issue with the CVD’s in Corally RC’s my Python has had quite a beating always running it on 6S. Guess I just must be one of the lucky ones
 
chipster said:
I have never had any issue with the CVD’s in Corally RC’s my Python has had quite a beating always running it on 6S. Guess I just must be one of the lucky ones
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I'm also not using the stock RTR power system I have a Mamba Monster X 8S and a Castle 1717 1650kv (47x85mm) motor in it

asuga_003.webp
 
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