Sketer Sketer Shocks Leaking Oil

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sfgiants024

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Happy Friday all!

2 of the 4 shocks on my Sketer are leaking oil. They are only leaking from the top and out of the overflow hole. At rest, no leak but at 75-100% compression oil begins to outflow. I have opened up the shocks and replaced bladders to ensure a seal.

Anyone else having this issue?
Any ideas for a fix?

Thank you!
 
  • Mugen Dämpfer Membran MBX-7R/8 (4)

Mugen

Mugen Dämpfer Membran MBX-7R/8 (4)​

Artikelnummer: E2524

Mugen Dämpfer Membran MBX-7R/8 (4)

 
sfgiants024 said:
Happy Friday all!

2 of the 4 shocks on my Sketer are leaking oil. They are only leaking from the top and out of the overflow hole. At rest, no leak but at 75-100% compression oil begins to outflow. I have opened up the shocks and replaced bladders to ensure a seal.

Anyone else having this issue?
Any ideas for a fix?

Thank you!
Click to expand...
I had the same issue with one of my fronts. GL getting any real help from TC or HRP <--"where I got mine". TC said to notify HRP since they're the US distributor. HRP said to take the top off and to make sure the rubber membrane wasn't damaged and that the shock rim was smooth. I checked both and they were fine, but it still leaks. @Mazin suggested using a small bit of plumbers tap around the threads. I haven't had time o try it yet.
 
When you screw on the top, make sure the shaft is about 1/3 pushed in, and put the bladder in the cap when you screw it on (not in the shock body).
 
Sorry for my english.
What if you use plumbers tape on threads?
 
razorrc said:
When you screw on the top, make sure the shaft is about 1/3 pushed in, and put the bladder in the cap when you screw it on (not in the shock body).
Click to expand...
And fill the the shock to the top with shock oil?

Question, what would the difference be between screwing the cap on with a fully extended shock and a shock pushed in 1/3 of the way in? They fully extend while no weight is on them. Just trying to understand :D
 
Last edited:
Wheels007 said:
And fill the the shock to the top with shock oil?

Question, what would the difference be between screwing the cap on with a fully extended shock and a shock pushed in 1/3 of the way in? They fully extend while no weight is on them. Just trying to understand :D
Click to expand...
I don't know but when 1/3 in, you created a vacuum and you close the bladder? When you screw up the cap. That's what i think 😉
 
The bladder separates the air above it, from the oil below it. When the shock compresses, the shaft takes up space, so something has to compress so your shock doesn't hydro-lock. Silicone oil doesn't compress, so it's the air that will.

If you have a fully extended shaft, there is a lot of volume that needs to compress, in this case you will get a lot of rebound or not even be able to compress the shock all the way, or possibly blow out the oil out of the shock because of all of the pressure.

If you did it the other way and had the shaft all the way in, you will create a big vacuum when you extend the shock and will suck the bladder into the body and it will also leak.

1/3 is a good compromise to not have excessive rebound/pressure or vacuum and it will be less likely to leak.

You don't need to fill the shock to the very top, you can leave a mm or 2 because the bladder will displace some of the oil. Or you can fill it up to the top and a bunch should bleed out the bleed hole when you screw on the top. Either way is fine, the first way will be less messy.
 
razorrc said:
The bladder separates the air above it, from the oil below it. When the shock compresses, the shaft takes up space, so something has to compress so your shock doesn't hydro-lock. Silicone oil doesn't compress, so it's the air that will.

If you have a fully extended shaft, there is a lot of volume that needs to compress, in this case you will get a lot of rebound or not even be able to compress the shock all the way, or possibly blow out the oil out of the shock because of all of the pressure.

If you did it the other way and had the shaft all the way in, you will create a big vacuum when you extend the shock and will suck the bladder into the body and it will also leak.

1/3 is a good compromise to not have excessive rebound/pressure or vacuum and it will be less likely to leak.

You don't need to fill the shock to the very top, you can leave a mm or 2 because the bladder will displace some of the oil. Or you can fill it up to the top and a bunch should bleed out the bleed hole when you screw on the top. Either way is fine, the first way will be less messy.
Click to expand...
Being the RC Whisperer that you are, you should do a video tutorial on this. As a Razorrc youtube subscriber I'd give it a thumbs up:cool:
 
razorrc said:
1: If you have a fully extended shaft, there is a lot of volume that needs to compress, in this case you will get a lot of rebound or not even be able to compress the shock all the way, or possibly blow out the oil out of the shock because of all of the pressure.

2: If you did it the other way and had the shaft all the way in, you will create a big vacuum when you extend the shock and will suck the bladder into the body and it will also leak.

1/3 is a good compromise to not have excessive rebound/pressure or vacuum and it will be less likely to leak.

You don't need to fill the shock to the very top, you can leave a mm or 2 because the bladder will displace some of the oil. Or you can fill it up to the top and a bunch should bleed out the bleed hole when you screw on the top. Either way is fine, the first way will be less messy.
Click to expand...
Great advise and description as always @razorrc 👍🏼

I've done all of the above 🤣 the first two are not good...
 
MUGEN membranes help 80%! However, it may be that you have to grind the damper caps 0.5mm on sandpaper then the dampers are 100% tight!
 
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