Punisher Punisher center diff

Opua

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Hi, a friend of mine has a punisher, as he hates that the wheelies model changed the oil fluid in the center differential by putting 30k of density, now the model is more manageable. Do you think the same changes could also be made for my arrma kraton, to avoid the wheelies?
 

morrjr71

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Reducing the weight of center diff fluid will keep the wheelies down on most any vehicle. Turning the punch down will help as well.
 

Opua

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Reducing the weight of center diff fluid will keep the wheelies down on most any vehicle. Turning the punch down will help as well.
I have already lowered the punch to 2, now i would to put 30k oil fluid in the center diff, what do you think?
 

morrjr71

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I have already lowered the punch to 2, now i would to put 30k oil fluid in the center diff, what do you think?
30 seems a bit low, but if it works for you, then OK.

If you are using the stock remote with the Kraton, I suggest you upgrade to a radio system where you can adjust throttle exponential. Throttle exponential allows you to slow the throttle down during the early part of the trigger pull: you don't lose any high end, you just have more control at the earliest part of the trigger pull. I use throttle exponential on my Radiolink RC6GS V2 to tame the wheelies on my Kraton 6s with a Castle MMX 8s 1717 1650kv system.
 

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Reducing the weight of center diff fluid will keep the wheelies down on most any vehicle. Turning the punch down will help as well.
I'm not sure this is entirely true. Lighter oil in the center diff will mean more power bleeds to the front wheels causing more ballooning and those centrifugal forces will cause wheelies. Am I way off on this? I replaced the center diff oil in my XTR with 1mil and the ballooning and wheelies are gone.
 

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DaniC

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Exactly what I meant. Thinner oil front wheels unload more power under acceleration and wastes more power in general. I think wheelies are a combination on two things, to much power in the back makes the truck squat and start lifting the front, but also as this happens the center diff unloads more power to the front making the tires balloon increasing the centrifugal forces which then make the car rotate back even more.
I'm no expert and that's just my interpretation, I could be completely wrong!
 

Opua

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I have decide, i keep 100k in the center diff and rear 20k,instead in rhe front 60k, it should be fine!
 

morrjr71

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Exactly what I meant. Thinner oil front wheels unload more power under acceleration and wastes more power in general. I think wheelies are a combination on two things, to much power in the back makes the truck squat and start lifting the front, but also as this happens the center diff unloads more power to the front making the tires balloon increasing the centrifugal forces which then make the car rotate back even more.
I'm no expert and that's just my interpretation, I could be completely wrong!
I'm not smart enough to discuss theory, but in my experience going with thinner diff fluid in the center diff reduced wheelies on my 4s and 6s vehicles. For example, my Maxx wheelied terribly, even with a small throttle input. Based on what I read on Maxx forums, I swapped the 20M center diff fluid for 1M diff fluid. My Maxx no longer wheelies all the time, yet I can get it to wheelie if I mash the throttle fully in one quick movement. Changing the center diff fluid was like getting a different vehicle; one that is much more controllable.

My Kraton 6s and two Corally 6s vehicles never wheelied as much as the Maxx because the center diff fluid in my Kraton is 300K and the center diff fluid in my Corallys is 100K. The punch is turned down on all those vehicles, and I'm using throttle expo. The Corallys are faster than my Kraton, but they are more controllable.

I generally use twice the diff fluid weight in the front diff as I use in the rear diff. It works perfectly for me.
 

DaniC

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I'm not smart enough to discuss theory, but in my experience going with thinner diff fluid in the center diff reduced wheelies on my 4s and 6s vehicles. For example, my Maxx wheelied terribly, even with a small throttle input. Based on what I read on Maxx forums, I swapped the 20M center diff fluid for 1M diff fluid. My Maxx no longer wheelies all the time, yet I can get it to wheelie if I mash the throttle fully in one quick movement. Changing the center diff fluid was like getting a different vehicle; one that is much more controllable.

My Kraton 6s and two Corally 6s vehicles never wheelied as much as the Maxx because the center diff fluid in my Kraton is 300K and the center diff fluid in my Corallys is 100K. The punch is turned down on all those vehicles, and I'm using throttle expo. The Corallys are faster than my Kraton, but they are more controllable.

I generally use twice the diff fluid weight in the front diff as I use in the rear diff. It works perfectly for me.
It's an interesting topic! I think I get the effects it has on traction and acceleration, but I'd love to understand better the theory behind the effects it has on wheelies.
Found this nice and clear video, but it doesn't talk about wheelies or in-air rotation.


 

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