Asuga New Asuga XLR roller/RTR

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Just stripped the exact same screw, have you managed to get it out? Mine is flush with the spur unlike yours and I have tried cutting a slot with a dremel before but that didn't work out (that was a different screw). I think my cutting wheel is too thick.
 
Just stripped the exact same screw, have you managed to get it out? Mine is flush with the spur unlike yours and I have tried cutting a slot with a dremel before but that didn't work out (that was a different screw). I think my cutting wheel is too thick.
Been there different screw but still a pain in the ass it is, if flush not be able to slot it without damaging spur unless have a tiny wheel, may have to drill it out & then hope there’s enough threads left to try remove with pliers. If don’t come out might have risk running with 3 screws or replace diff case.

Another method we used in factory working on casting dies was if bolt stuck was to tack weld another bolt to it then screw both out together, but be difficult on such a small screw.

Screw I pictured still stuck in chassis brace , tried slotting it, head snapped off, luckily for me another bolt hole beside it could be used.

Good luck with it

IMG_6553.jpeg


IMG_6550.jpeg
 
Been there different screw but still a pain in the ass it is, if flush not be able to slot it without damaging spur unless have a tiny wheel, may have to drill it out & then hope there’s enough threads left to try remove with pliers. If don’t come out might have risk running with 3 screws or replace diff case.

Another method we used in factory working on casting dies was if bolt stuck was to tack weld another bolt to it then screw both out together, but be difficult on such a small screw.

Screw I pictured still stuck in chassis brace , tried slotting it, head snapped off, luckily for me another bolt hole beside it could be used.

Good luck with it

View attachment 6766

View attachment 6767
There's enough showing there to grip with mole grips and then brute force it out.

Failing that, cut the head off, remove chassis brace, then clamp mole grips to it whilst it's entirely off the rig.

It's very rare I experience this with my rigs, but funnily enough today I was fitting a rotary washing line for someone and one of the cross head bolts clamping the tube going into the ground decided to play silly buggers.

I cut the head off and removed it that way.

I've heard people say that the screws on Corally rigs are soft.

Personally, I think the main issue is that RTR screws are tight with thread lock from the factory and the majority of users end up using the crappy L-shaped allen drivers provided with stuff, which aren't precisely made and quite soft. They readily chew up hex heads - it's a one shot deal I'm afraid. 😬💩

Or:

1000023554.png



1000023555.png

1000023556.png
 
There's enough showing there to grip with mole grips and then brute force it out.

Failing that, cut the head off, remove chassis brace, then clamp mole grips to it whilst it's entirely off the rig.

It's very rare I experience this with my rigs, but funnily enough today I was fitting a rotary washing line for someone and one of the cross head bolts clamping the tube going into the ground decided to play silly buggers.

I cut the head off and removed it that way.

I've heard people say that the screws on Corally rigs are soft.

Personally, I think the main issue is that RTR screws are tight with thread lock from the factory and the majority of users end up using the crappy L-shaped allen drivers provided with stuff, which aren't precisely made and quite soft. They readily chew up hex heads - it's a one shot deal I'm afraid. 😬💩

Or:

View attachment 6768


View attachment 6769
View attachment 6770
I have mip, tried mole grips this bolt was/is stuck good, slotted it & flathead couldnt move it either kept rounding out slot , I made it deeper and eventually head snapped off , the threads I could get a grip with mole grips even rounded off, unless I drill it out it staying there. Was a strange one because was coming out fine then just locked up, usually when youve got it coming out your good but halfway out it said no more rounded the head that was that.
 
I have wera hex plus. Very popular in the 3d printing community which have even softer screws. I shoud've known better and heated up these screws straight away to break the locktite. I think I'm going to keep it like this and just work on the diff from one side until I can get acces to a drill press. Then I can use the screw extractors.

My only concern right now is damaging the paper gasket when cleaning the diff with WD-40. Anyone know what that will do?
 
I have mip, tried mole grips this bolt was/is stuck good, slotted it & flathead couldnt move it either kept rounding out slot , I made it deeper and eventually head snapped off , the threads I could get a grip with mole grips even rounded off, unless I drill it out it staying there. Was a strange one because was coming out fine then just locked up, usually when youve got it coming out your good but halfway out it said no more rounded the head that was that.
What a PITA. 😬

How about...

1000023565.png

🤣

I have wera hex plus. Very popular in the 3d printing community which have even softer screws. I shoud've known better and heated up these screws straight away to break the locktite. I think I'm going to keep it like this and just work on the diff from one side until I can get acces to a drill press. Then I can use the screw extractors.

My only concern right now is damaging the paper gasket when cleaning the diff with WD-40. Anyone know what that will do?
I use GT85 for cleaning and 'dry' lubing dogbones/outputs. It's owned by WD40! 😅

Certain stuff WD40 may eat into - someone here posted all about what stuff WD40 can damage - and why.

It's great for penetrating stubborn bolts etc - but not as good as plusgas dismantling spray. 👍
 
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I have wera hex plus. Very popular in the 3d printing community which have even softer screws. I shoud've known better and heated up these screws straight away to break the locktite. I think I'm going to keep it like this and just work on the diff from one side until I can get acces to a drill press. Then I can use the screw extractors.

My only concern right now is damaging the paper gasket when cleaning the diff with WD-40. Anyone know what that will do?
Gaskets will only last so long ,few oil if changes if lucky then best replacing them I think. My original gasket fell apart when 1st done mine.
 
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