Python JvG's Python 6S 2021 first impressions, top speed and breakage

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Hurricane said:
Is the fuel tube in the front or rear or both center diff cups? I've only found one so I am wanting to put it where it should be.

Hurricane
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It’s suppose to be in there to take up clearance between the cup and the driveshaft. Otherwise the driveshaft will have an easier time popping out/lash etc. Used to do this on the old Kyosho 7.5’s. The driveshafts were almost too short for the car I’m not sure why they do that.
 
Spoon said:
After looking your pictures i saw that you have a cap pack on your Python 6s wich i don´t have on my Radix 6s... Can someone tell me why there is a difference?
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Yes, it's hit and miss with those packs, some have it, some don't.
Do you need it?

This is what the manual (Hobbywing Max8) says.
And so the cap pack isn't installed correctly, it should be as close as possible to the esc.

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JvG said:
This is what the manual (Hobbywing Max8) says.
And so the cap pack isn't installed correctly, it should be as close as possible to the esc.

View attachment 826
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Haven't decided if I'll move mine closer to the esc or remove it totally..!!

I'm pretty confident that on a buggy even at 6s you'll be good, Kronos/Punisher/Dementor/etc I think I'd feel happier with the cap pack fitted as per Hobbywing's instruction 👍🏼

Only problem I see though is Corally have cut into the wire so short I'm not sure if my battery will reach 🤔 and I'm a neat freak when it comes to cables and wiring !!
 
BashingBrian said:
Haven't decided if I'll move mine closer to the esc or remove it totally..!!

I'm pretty confident that on a buggy even at 6s you'll be good, Kronos/Punisher/Dementor/etc I think I'd feel happier with the cap pack fitted as per Hobbywing's instruction 👍🏼

Only problem I see though is Corally have cut into the wire so short I'm not sure if my battery will reach 🤔 and I'm a neat freak when it comes to cables and wiring !!
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I think i'll toss it in the spare parts bin. I've seen Talions go over 100kph on a Max8 without a cap pack and no issues.

No worries about the wiring, they have only cut off the outside of the wire. When you're resoldering connectors put the small piece of outer cable you cut off over the cut outs from Corally, add some heat shrink and it's perfect 🤝 i'll take a pic when i'm done.
 
JvG said:
No worries about the wiring, they have only cut off the outside of the wire. When you're resoldering connectors put the small piece of outer cable you cut off over the cut outs from Corally, add some heat shrink and it's perfect 🤝 i'll take a pic when i'm done.
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My OCD would never let me do that 😉🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Might use some braiding if I've got any left..
 
Megafandrew said:
It’s suppose to be in there to take up clearance between the cup and the driveshaft. Otherwise the driveshaft will have an easier time popping out/lash etc. Used to do this on the old Kyosho 7.5’s. The driveshafts were almost too short for the car I’m not sure why they do that.
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Exactly right. That was a common practice in the 1980's and 1990's.
 
So finally got to run the Radix. I started with an 17t pinion and an road setup. Slightly smaller tires than the stock ones.
And this is the top speed :oops:

IMG_3120.JPG


Not bad at all, going 18t next time!
It ran very smooth with the hard springs, thicker shock oil and lowered droop srews.
The tires were having a hard time though....

But first have to fix things, ran into a brick laying in the grass 🤬

IMG_3122.JPG


I'll asses the damage tonight but it doesn't look too bad.
Bummer the body also broke and no stock @ Corally...


IMG_3121.JPG
 
Wow she was booking for sure, Sucks about the stupid brick!!!
 
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