I have the the utmost respect for Ryan Lutz and love his onboard footage. For the record, he's a terrific driver, too. And a bloody giant!! He must be nearly 7 feet tall, but the nicest guy.
However, it's a stretch to 'recreate' the effects of bumps and rutts by giggling the car around. And I wouldn't do it if there's anyone in the vicinity that could witness you doing it...
I think it's all about balance. How you drive, how much weight transfer you need and what you find drivable.
The purpose of our oil-filled shock bodies is to absorb energy and prevent it from being transmitted back into ground, in an ever decreasing cycle of 'boing'. (Under damped/over sprung).
The purpose of the spring is to support the weight of the vehicle, keeping wheels/tyres in contact with the ground, return the wheel to the right place on undulating ground and/or whilst enduring acceleration forces during conering.
Left unchecked, suspension will bounce, meaning that tyres part company from the ground, seriously reducing traction and braking. Think friction dampers - or the Tamiya Grasshopper, boinging around all over the place.
There's a lot going on - especially if you take into account all the dynamic forces acting on the chassis as well.
We want our suspension to be able to move as fast as possible (with the least amount of unsprung weight), whilst keeping the tyre in contact with the ground.
Really the only way of getting it perfect for you and your condition on the day is to try for yourself how changing springs and oil weight works for you.
Generally, with higher rate springs, you'll need accordingly higher weight oil to control the oscillations.
Here's the thing. It's always going to be a compromise. You can improve damping and it will be at the expense of response.
You can improve you landings from slap, but it will be at the expense of bump handling.
As you get more experienced, you can choose what to prioritise.
For bashing, you can settle with factory suggestions and learn to 'drive around' certain compromises instead - it's quicker and easier.
Food for thought: Have you ever swapped controllers at the end of a race, with a near peer, and wondered 'how the hell did you manage to finish the race with that thing?!!'.
I have. This is why you should find out what works for you.
The only person that needs to be satisfied it's right, is you.
The majority of folks here have lots of experience wrenching and upgrading, but tuning geometry is something of a dark art.
At least with the ARR, you can source the electronics and set it up how “you” want it. That parts dope!
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) works for Ryan, then hey! Don't knock it til you try it.
