Kagama Is this amount of center diff slippage normal?

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Trucking in space

Trucking in space

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Hi, I've not owned another vehicle with a center diff, so maybe this is a dumb question.
In this video you can see my truck sits still while I spin the center diff while it's connected to the whole drive train. All that movement happens before the truck starts to move the wheels.

Is this normal ?

I only ask because *something* is causing a lot of heat in my motor \ ESC and I'm not sure what normal center diff behavior is.

The center diff has the stock fluid in it, I know because it leaked some.

Again, sorry for the dumb question. This just seems like a lot of slipping, but again, I have no center diff experience, only slipper clutches, which never slipped like this except when way too loose.
I already put an 11 tooth pinion on the motor to deal with heat, and the pinion and grub screws are tight.
Any advice is appreciated.

Big thanks in advance.
 
That’s normal , looks fine but your mesh looks like it might be too tight this will cause more heat also, but if you have a hobbywing esc to go with that motor it will have thermal protection, you could turn down punch setting also might help a bit or increase bec settings for more power to fans if not done so already, but bigger rc like kagama can get hot, a lot go to a lower kv motor.
 
Trucking in space said:
Hi, I've not owned another vehicle with a center diff, so maybe this is a dumb question.
In this video you can see my truck sits still while I spin the center diff while it's connected to the whole drive train. All that movement happens before the truck starts to move the wheels.

Is this normal ?

I only ask because *something* is causing a lot of heat in my motor \ ESC and I'm not sure what normal center diff behavior is.

The center diff has the stock fluid in it, I know because it leaked some.

Again, sorry for the dumb question. This just seems like a lot of slipping, but again, I have no center diff experience, only slipper clutches, which never slipped like this except when way too loose.
I already put an 11 tooth pinion on the motor to deal with heat, and the pinion and grub screws are tight.
Any advice is appreciated.

Big thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
That isn't slippage - but end-float in the system. Between the dogbones and input drives, and dogbones and axles. It looks normal, although it's difficult to tell.

Slippage would be when the system turns but the wheels remain still - like when the grub screws are loose on your input drive/s into the front/rear transmissions.

There are no dumb questions - only ridiculous answers.
 
Sandracer_NL said:
Do you run onroad or also offroad?
I assume you don’t have a temp gun to measure how hot the motor gets; could you hold your finger on the motor for more than 3 seconds?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I have a temp gun, and my ESC has logging features. These are the temps I was getting (running on gravel over blacktop) on 6s with 13t pinion and everything stock except shock standoffs and front shocks tower 7075 ADU Racing upgrades. I have a small area I practice in, so there is a lot of start and stop, which plays hell with the temperature. I run a 40mm server fan at 1 amp 12 volts with a 7.4 v BEC.
Yesterday I switched to a 11t pinion and my temps are as seen in second image: way cooler.
I'm running in a small area that's close to my house, because I'm still not used to an 8th scale truck this heavy. My doctor wants me to walk, so this is my excuse 🤣.
I noticed temps are lower when I did mini speed runs on grass.
I think the 11t pinion is just where I should leave it, and I'll see about loosening up my gear mesh as well.

Thanks everyone (big time) for the input.

PS: I don't usually bring my temp gun since I think the ESC and motor sensors are probably slightly more accurate, being in the internals.
When I hit the temps in the first image, I let the RC sit with fans on and then babied it back to my house.
I'd like to stiffen up the center diff a bit, but I don't want to add more unnecessary friction heat.
I was thinking about 100k fluid. Should I go thinner fluid or leave it stock. I'd like to wheelie a bit 🤔

Screenshot_20240926-182632.webp


Screenshot_20241009-175046.webp
 
That's a great looking app/interface! Temps look under control. My first outings on 13/52 resulted in motor temps over 200°F on my Kuron 825. It's a miracle it didn't fry.🤠

I check temps with my temp gun from time to time, especially since I've been running higher gearing, and avoid going over 160°F. 👍
 
Good to see te
Trucking in space said:
Yeah, I have a temp gun, and my ESC has logging features. These are the temps I was getting (running on gravel over blacktop) on 6s with 13t pinion and everything stock except shock standoffs and front shocks tower 7075 ADU Racing upgrades. I have a small area I practice in, so there is a lot of start and stop, which plays hell with the temperature. I run a 40mm server fan at 1 amp 12 volts with a 7.4 v BEC.
Yesterday I switched to a 11t pinion and my temps are as seen in second image: way cooler.
I'm running in a small area that's close to my house, because I'm still not used to an 8th scale truck this heavy. My doctor wants me to walk, so this is my excuse 🤣.
I noticed temps are lower when I did mini speed runs on grass.
I think the 11t pinion is just where I should leave it, and I'll see about loosening up my gear mesh as well.

Thanks everyone (big time) for the input.

PS: I don't usually bring my temp gun since I think the ESC and motor sensors are probably slightly more accurate, being in the internals.
When I hit the temps in the first image, I let the RC sit with fans on and then babied it back to my house.
I'd like to stiffen up the center diff a bit, but I don't want to add more unnecessary friction heat.
I was thinking about 100k fluid. Should I go thinner fluid or leave it stock. I'd like to wheelie a bit 🤔

View attachment 7093

View attachment 7094
Click to expand...
Next time you do some maintenance on the car I’d check the motor bearings. Stock motor bearings are usually pretty bad and get gritty quickly and replacing them with better ones makes a huge difference; less friction, less heat.
 
Horatio said:
That's a great looking app/interface! Temps look under control. My first outings on 13/52 resulted in motor temps over 200°F on my Kuron 825. It's a miracle it didn't fry.🤠

I check temps with my temp gun from time to time, especially since I've been running higher gearing, and avoid going over 160°F. 👍
Click to expand...
Hobbywing Max 8 G2S
The app data logging helped me realize my batteries were too weak and forcing early low voltage cutoff.
Thanks for all the input everyone.
I was worried I was gonna have to buy a Max 6, and I'd rather spend that money on a Basher Body.
As far as tires go, I'm running 3.8 belted Badlands, which to be honest, 3 of the 4 started coming unglued after one run. But Horizon Hobby sent me 4 new ones next day delivery, so I'm going to try them again after putting on enough Bob Smith Industries IC2000 to drown a horse.
Happy bashing, everyone!
 
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